What exactly is the benefit of doing this mod?

 

Originally posted by enfurno@Jul 5 2007, 03:42 PM
What exactly is the benefit of doing this mod?

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smoother idle, Greater HP and better MPH.
This is as advertised,
A mod.
It's been raining here but the last run I did my shift was a little over 4000 RPM and the idle seemed a bit smoother.
As I stated in the origional post:
Not enough time to report a # increase. :gunsmilie:

 

You would think a single, 0 gauge wire from the negative terminal to the body would do the same thing since the engine and everything else is grounded to the body.

 

I'm skeptical about these cheap instant gain mods. I would be interested in seeing some real numbers though if in fact you do produce something different than stock once you can test it out.

 

They have been tested by several reputable magazines, and there have been gains anywhere from 1hp to 5 or 6 horses.

Not massive, but 5 horses for under $100 is nothing to sneeze at.

Grounding to body is ok, but most car bodies arent really designed as an electrical conductor. Every weld and layer of paint that electricity has to go through is a resistor, add up enough and you start talking about loosing a volt or two.
This may not seem like much, but at higher revs with greater heat and chamber pressure you need more and more juice to fire off the plugs.

A case of "the more, the merrier"

 

Originally posted by madderhatter@Jul 5 2007, 07:34 PM
You would think a single, 0 gauge wire from the negative terminal to the body would do the same thing since the engine and everything else is grounded to the body.

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A 1/0 ground is not stock on the 06 Sonata. If you look you will find a 8 AWG from the (-) to the body on the drivers side and the same on the passenger side to the block.
As previously stated the body is not as good a ground path or eleviation from electrostatic discharge.
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Not to burst anyone's bubble but is it worth maybe voiding your warranty for a 1hp gain?

 

How are you going to void your warrantee?

This has been mentioned dozens of times on this forum and thousands of times on other forums, due to the magnusson-moss act, the manufacturer must prove that the modification caused the malfunction.
Improving your cars grounding, assuming correct install, will only extend your electrical systems proper function.

Its fine to be paranoid when they are actually after you, but needless worrying is rather pointless.

 

Originally posted by sonata with seoul@Jul 5 2007, 09:40 PM
A 1/0 ground is not stock on the 06 Sonata. If you look you will find a 8 AWG from the (-) to the body on the drivers side and the same on the passenger side to the block.
As previously stated the body is not as good a ground path or eleviation from electrostatic discharge.
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I know it's not stock, I meant installing a 0 gauge setup. Regardless of the wire size or number of them, the shorter the better. For example, if you install your amps in the trunk and also install a second deep cycle battery in the trunk you'll get much better performance out of your amps with a lot less loss of power, and making the amp work harder, than doing a power run from the front of the car, and never run a ground wire from the front to the back of the car. Well that had really nothing to do with this topic ... :whistling:

 

Originally posted by madderhatter@Jul 6 2007, 09:38 PM
I know it's not stock, I meant installing a 0 gauge setup.  Regardless of the wire size or number of them, the shorter the better.  For example, if you install your amps in the trunk and also install a second deep cycle battery in the trunk you'll get much better performance out of your amps with a lot less loss of power, and making the amp work harder, than doing a power run from the front of the car, and never run a ground wire from the front to the back of the car.  Well that had really nothing to do with this topic ...  :whistling:

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If your installing a big boom boom this might be the case.

I simply wanted better performance and feel I've achieved it with noticing a much smoother idle. (#'s are still out and the debate is still active on actual HP gains)

Toadys ECU's are esencially a small computer and we should all know todays electronic devices perform better when electrical cables are shielded.
The electrical wiring to the sensors on todays cars are simply 1 or 2 wire installations with no shielding.
By providing a better ground path with the addition of added ground points and a better conductor material than factory I am simply adding this shield and adding a better groung path. ( or so in my opinion)
I'll provide the following link for more information not mentioned in this thread.
http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/
Cheers :beer:

 

Originally posted by sonata with seoul@Jul 7 2007, 12:26 AM
If your installing a big boom boom this might be the case.

I simply wanted better performance and feel I've achieved it with noticing a much smoother idle. (#'s are still out and the debate is still active on actual HP gains)

Toadys ECU's are esencially a small computer and we should all know todays electronic devices perform better when electrical cables are shielded.
The electrical wiring to the sensors on todays cars are simply 1 or 2 wire installations with no shielding.
By providing a better ground path with the addition of added ground points and a better conductor material than factory I am simply adding this shield and adding a better groung path. ( or so in my opinion)
I'll provide the following link for more information not mentioned in this thread.
http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/
Cheers :beer:

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Are those cables supposed to be shielded, like any standard shielded cables with the fiberglass and stainless steel mesh under the plastic ?

 

Originally posted by madderhatter@Jul 7 2007, 08:00 PM
Are those cables supposed to be shielded, like any standard shielded cables with the fiberglass and stainless steel mesh under the plastic ?

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LOL HAtter
Anything we can do to provide a better ground path improves the electrical interference, integrety and performance of the device.

There alot of things to consider when modifing and one example it the recent buzz regarding replacing the factory tail lights with LED aftermarket.

I've held off on this MOD based on comments that some LED's have burned out leaving the rest of the tail light looking like sh1+..

This is why I would much rather replace the stock bulbs with LED bulbs which is much cheaper than replacing the whole lamp assembly and if they burn out they can be much easier replaced.

Some of what I've heard and read is, When installing LED's a electronic flasher relay should be installed replacing the stock flasher unit or the LED's may be subject to premature burnout.
Another example of auto electronics.
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That looks pretty sweet. I was thinking of doing this myself but wanted someone that has one on to give me some feedbackon if they really make a difference.

I just have a couple questions:

Can you put the engine cover back on once the wires are in?

and

Can you post up some close up pics of where you mounted the grounds and where they are located?

This way I can get the same performance out of the kit as you did.

:liebe011:

 

Originally posted by Gator 11@Jul 8 2007, 05:32 PM
That looks pretty sweet.  I was thinking of doing this myself but wanted someone that has one on to give me some feedbackon if they really make a difference. 

I just have a couple questions:

Can you put the engine cover back on once the wires are in?

and

Can you post up some close up pics of where you mounted the grounds and where they are located?

This way I can get the same performance out of the kit as you did.

:liebe011:

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The origional Post was for anyone considering this mod with the pic.
as for your first question, YES I did reinstall the 3.3 plastic cover.

As for close up pics, Their not really necessary.

The point's I chose (although you can research differing oppions) was all factory bolt locations without removing any bolt that contains a gasket underneath.
The top of the throttle body, The small bracket used for wiring attachment on the alternator (By no means connect to the (+) of the alternator), The Factory chassis ground on the passengers side, the top of the engine block as you can see in my orginial post and the Factory position for the orgininal ground x2.

Some opions would suggest also grounding the trans case, but I experienced a better shift response with the points I chose over factory.

 

Cool thanks alot. :thumbsup: And if you don't mind me asking how much did you spend and do you still have the buyer you bought the kit from?

 

Originally posted by Gator 11@Jul 8 2007, 06:43 PM
Cool thanks alot. :thumbsup:  And if you don't mind me asking how much did you spend and do you still have the buyer you bought the kit from?

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25 bucks or so. I think I have it listed in the garage.

I purchased it on ebay.
They have alot listed and as previously stated they are all universal ( Being being pretty much the same length for the make and models listed, pick one )
ebay/ground wire kit/ search.

WARNING!!!
Some MODER's have experienced side effects such as dizziness, sudden accleration serge, better MPG, Passenger restliness.
If you have had a history of heart problems, kidney retention or a recent bowl condition, Mod's should be avoided.
Consult your doctor before making any Sonata modifications.
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Originally posted by sonata with seoul@Jul 8 2007, 05:24 PM
LOL HAtter
Anything we can do to provide a better ground path improves the electrical interference, integrety and performance of the device.

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LOL what ? You're the one that mentioned shielding so I asked if they were shielded. It appears not, at least not for that price. I don't think I've ever seen a shielded ground cable now that I think about it, that's usually reserved for signal cables. I think I'll steer clear of anything that "improves electrical interference". :whistling:

 

Originally posted by madderhatter@Jul 8 2007, 07:58 PM
LOL what ?  You're the one that mentioned shielding so I asked if they were shielded.  It appears not, at least not for that price.  I don't think I've ever seen a shielded ground cable now that I think about it, that's usually reserved for signal cables.  I think I'll steer clear of anything that "improves electrical interference".  :whistling:

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If yor relying on Fiberglass for cable shielding, I'd stay clear too. LOL
You have totally missed the topic and have clearly not done any homework other than to respond.

 

I'm a skeptic as well... especially seeing how this would only cost a manufacturer a few dollars to do themselves.. and supposedly give more power that they could use to marketing advantage.

My opinion when used on a modern car.... don't forget to add an Apexi sticker for an additional 5-10fwhp

Than again.... if you do it yourself on the cheap and don't screw it up.... small price to pay for a small slice of happiness.... much less than talking to a shrink

 

Nice, neat job! Let us know any benefits you notice.

 

Sorry lots of questions I know. :blush: But I am just guessing you took the piece off that makes the one screw into two and used the extra wire to extend the wire from the bolt just above the block to the alternator negative bolt?

 

Originally posted by wymi@Jul 8 2007, 09:37 PM
Nice, neat job! Let us know any benefits you notice.

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I have alot of base line #'s and am working on more.
It will probably be another week or two until I can put some of this into a spreadsheet graph that will make sense.

Hey Hatter,
Will this site support EXCEL or does it need to be posted in PDF?

There has been alot of chatter in this forum on theoretical 3.3 Sonata #'s
Hopefully, when posted, the my realtime data will give those interested something to think about.

Oh yes did I mention the Nology PDF Dyno really works?
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