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Hard to start. Smoking at idle. Rough running. Odd vibration at Idle.

12K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  sed8ed  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I have a 2007 2.2L SX Sante Fe, just recently had timing belt done, all serpentine belts and associated tensioners replaced. Car has travelled 227,000 fairly trouble free kilometres... This morning I went to start the car and it was a no go, first few attempts the engine just stalled out, subsequent starting would result in idle for 5-seconds and then stall. Smoke was being emitted from the exhaust, appears to be unburnt fuel. It eventually started but smoked a bit during idle. The main fuel pump (I believe there are two?) was replaced around 8 months ago, so it doesn't have issue getting fuel.

I'm wondering if this may be an EGR issue? I had noticed that between the last few oil changes she had lost around quarter of a litre of oil over the normal service intervals, I dare say this is being consumed somewhere, maybe crankcase ventilation.

I took one of the hoses off the intercooler, the front one towards radiator and noticed some oil residue in the hose and some around the mouth of the intercooler, no doubt there is some inside the intercooler too. Not sure if this is anything to be alarmed about, I have read this does happen to some diesel engines with high kilometres and can be caused by oil entering the air intake pipes via crankcase ventilation, not sure if that applies to the 2.2L in the Sante Fe. Also grabbed a torch and had a look around the engine bay, while it's relatively clean I noticed some oil around the turbo intake piping.

Engine noise is a little clanky, I read in the EGR cleaning thread that this subsides considerably when the EGR is cleaned or replaced. Last oil change the engine was fairly quiet, but after around 2,500k's it's returned to being clanky.
Have recently had some stalls when driving around town, rough idling when pulling up and loss of power when cruising at 60kph. I have noticed this seems to occur at low speed and often after I stop accelerating.

There's a bit of vibration when the engine is idling, more so than normal, not sure whats causing this but I originally thought it was the idler pulley wheel bearings so had the entire assembly replaced, it appeared to fix the issue somewhat but it has returned in a fairly short time. One of the pulley wheel bearings was shot and was contributing noise. If I put the AC on the low vibration noise I hear increases, also when I turn the steering wheel, basically when the engine is under load from an auxiliary source! At 1800-2000rpm the low vibration (purring) noise is not present. I'm worried there could be an oil pump issue occurring here, it appears to be lower in the engine bay, I don't think it's a knock or major failure of the engine internals, the sound is more inline with an exhaust vibration, yet it isn't the exhaust.

If anyone has some ideas on the possible issues I'm experiencing please feel free to list them, just looking to be informed before I have my precious towed to the Hyundai dealer for further inspection.

Was hoping to get a little longer out of my faithful steed and hope this isn't the start of some very expensive repairs or time for retirement!
 
#2 ·
Hi,
All you mentioned makes some sense.
The EGR certainly could be an additional issue, so maybe in need of a cleanup.
It normally comes into action over some 2000 revs.
But the most "interresting" was your mentioning oil in the air intake / intercooler, together with loss of oil and some clunky noise.
All indicators of your turbo being in need of an overhoal or to be looked at.
If it is performing badly it starves the engine of air, so bad engine performance.
It is heavily lubricated by oil from the engine-oil system. It runs at speeds upto 100.000 revs or more. If f.i. it has bad bearings (clunky sounds) it can leak oil into the air and exhaust circuitry, so also to the intercooler and air intake.
Some of this oil will be burnt in the cylinders, hense smokey exhaust, but I suppose the EGR also will suffer from some "greasy" air getting to it.
So all in all I suggest you get your turbo looked at.
Also you could keep the revs/power down for the moment to slow down heavy turbo action.

Good luck,
Paul
 
#3 ·
First I would up my morning dose of coffee.
Next I would quit smoking. It's bad for you anyway.
If you don't run regularly, start by walking and gradually shift to short runs.
Might have something to do with the cigarettes.

Oh...your CAR! Arrgggg!! Sorry, mate! My reading comprehension needs some work.
 
#4 ·
Paul03, the original poster describes oil in the inlet duct upstream of (before) the turbo, I have similar problems with a U2 engine in my i30. Crankcase mist and fumes are pulled over into the turbo then pumped through the intercooler and engine, soot from the EGR system then sticks to this mess and 'sludges' up the inlet manifold from the EGR entry point right down to the inlet valve pockets. I have installed a 'catch can' on the vapour line between the engine valve cover and the turbo inlet house to minimise the carry over. If the sludge in the valve pockets gets bad enough it can hold the valves open causing loss of compression and missfires (white smoke-unburnt fuel), the blockage will also cause gradual power loss. My i30 is just starting to coldstart missfire now at 45,000klm. I have sludge 6mm thick at the EGR entry point and will be taking off the manifold over the holiday season to clean it. Cheers.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Not so bad after all, service centre has inspected all, turbo is still okay. Low vibration noise is from the Alternator, there's a coupling/dampner that's worn that needs replacing ($150). Poor starting and rough idle are all EGR related, EGR inspected and is impacted, will have it cleaned. Otherwise all good. Will fit a catch can for the oil and have the induction ports cleaned...
 
#6 · (Edited)
Should also mention that the EGR valve is a pricey piece of kit...

It's worth having it removed and cleaned for continued fault free operation.... cleaning is definitely cheaper than replacement... the EGR valve and body is $1300 all up not fitted! yet cleaning is a 2 hour job if that for a qualified Hyundai mechanic at $132.00 an hour including GST!! (Sales Tax)

Only extra cost for a clean up is new gaskets on the EGR Valve body (as it separates into pieces) at $13 for those and while your at it the coolant will be changed over as part of the process at a cost of $107.00 (thats just the coolant cost)...

So replacement is a possible $1564

And a clean up is $384

I'll take the cleanup! Mechanic stated that it's rare for the EGR to fail, just gets clogged and cant open and close causing major grief...

So considering it's lasted this long, a clean should see out the rest of the ownership for me.

Any chance you have a link or part number for your catch can you fitted to the i30?
 
#8 · (Edited)
No.... correct oil is in use:

ENVIRO+ 5W-30 (Full Synthetic)

I should also add, I only use BP Ultimate Diesel at each fill (Considered Premium grade Diesel fuel)

Catch cans have more to do with blowby and how oil in ventilation gas is recirculated.. You want to keep that stuff out of the induction system, especially the intercooler as oil buildup inside causes the intercooler to be less efficient!

Buildup of oil on the Turbo vanes causes premature failure as the heat turns the oil mist to carbon lumps over time. Thus the turbo vanes (on a variable geometry turbo) seize...

I'm only considering the fitment of a catchcan as I've travelled considerable kilometres, the car is now semi retired from long kilometre weekly commutes (44,000k a year since purchase)...

It now drives a paltry 200 kilometres if that a week and I dare say any EGR buildup is a result of less driving! If I can squeeze another 50-100k from this car, I'll be in a great position to buy the latest one down the road...