i'd start by checking if that new pump works. might be a dud. you can always bench test it.

also check your connections. make sure the install of the new pump went right.

 

If it works, don't fix it. Put the old pump back in. Does it work that way?

 

I actually assumed maybe the new one was bad. Put old one back and still nothing. I'm out of ideas myself. Don't have necessary tool or knowledge to track down an electrical issue.

 

time to start asking what might have gone wrong when replacing it. pumped works until you replace it and now nothing. check your fuses and relays again....might have fried one.

 

The two connectors on the fuel pump that are side by side. If i switched those would it have ruined the fuel pump?

 

Pull the relay and jumper the #30 pin to the #87 . This should force the pump on if the wiring is good and there is 12v+ at the #30 pin.

 

Where do I find which pins are what.

 

They should be on the bottom of the relay.

 

Jumped then and nothing happened.

 

See if there is 12V+ on the #30 pin.

 

Thanks. In going to pick up a multimeter today.

 

I figured out which pins were what that you were referring to. Tested relay is good. I jumped the two together that the relay plugs into and it wouldn't run with. What settings do I use to test the power source for the relay to make sure it is giving power with the multimeter. Like what settings. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but you have taught me a lot already. If it isn't getting any power does that mean I shorted out the ecu when I mixed up the connections?

 

I used a check light on the fuse box to the fuel pump relay and it lights up. I unplugged the connector from the fuel pump and check it with the test light and it lights up to. Somewhat dim but it does light up. Does that mean it has to be a bad fuel pump. Maybe when I mixed up this connectors it shorted the pump out?

 

You use the DC volt setting. Stick the red lead on the hot wire and the black lead on a good ground.

You should put the leads n the battery first to get a good reading of what the voltage should be, There will be some drop as you check in places away from the battery.

 

I have twelve volts all the way to the main connector on top of the fuel sending unit assembly. That means it's isolated to wiring after that main connection right? Also I checked the pump function just hooked up to a battery and it kicks on.

 

Yes if there is 12v at the pump connector the problem is between there and the pump.

 

probably had one of the pins fail when you pulled it removing the old pump take a good look at the connector.

 

You tested pump in tank with direct power, not the uninstalled dry pump correct.
Pump uses gas for cooling and lubrication, can't be run dry.


Not to confuse things but.... For fuel pump to run it needs a good strong 12 volt DC signal and it needs amperage along with the 12 volts to run properly. The light could be dim because there is not enough amperage.


Amperage is like the flow that does the work. If dirty or corroded, wiring connections cause amperage losses. You meter has the ability to test amperage with a built in internal fuse. But you must be careful ; going across the battery terminals for ex will blow this normally 10 amp fuse instantly.

 

I use a test light at the pump terminals and the fuse sockets etc. to trace for voltage.
Key "ON" when doing this.

 

So i got it so the pump is definately kicking on by replacing the wires between the pump itslef and the lid of the unit. The pins on the lid connection are exposed, lacking a connector around it now. I've read that it is safe but now is the time for anyone who believes different to let me know. It terrifies me the thought of it blowing up on beneath my family. I'm also an extreme worrier. Anyways it is definately running now but still won't start. I havent checked fuel pressure but I'm sure its not leaving the tank. I don't think we put it back together quitre right and the fittings for the fuel path aren't complete. There was a little black o ring that goes somewhere and a plastic fitting that was around the output on the top of the pump itself by the connector. The 0 ring could have gone two places. Any one know where all the seals go?? Anyone have left over pictures or anything? Thank you all so much for the help.

 

i would be a little concerned....exposed wires/connections have the potential to create spark - right above a 45L tank of fuel. plus they will corrode. it just comes down to 'why take that chance?'

an easy ghetto fix? silicone the **** out of them with RTV. it'll be a pain to get the wires off again, but that depends if you care.

 

I care if even one person says I might lol. Wil rtv sealant hold up in gas alright??