Head back to the rear while someone pushes, and see if you can hear anything at all when the button is pressed but the door doesn't open. Need to know if the solenoid is trying at all. It's possible that it is weak or sticking, and that's why you don't hear the 'clunk' each time. You will hear a tiny bump even if it doesn't successfully release.

Could be button, could be door harness, could be solenoid. Other possibilities pretty far down the list.

Once you've decided whether it's trying at all, even when it doesn't open, the electrical troubleshooting begins - starting with seeing if there's any juice getting to the solenoid when you push the button.

 

Thanks i'll try that tonight.

 

Excactly the same issue with my 07 SF.
I've been told that it is a known deficiency.
Haven't got around to look at it in more detail since I have done an LPG conversion to my SF for more than a year and as such I only need to gas up once every 3-4 months.
Its is only necessary for starting up the car and then LPG takes over, or I have to use it when I happen to run out of lpg and cannot locate an LPG station nearby.

Let us know if you find the real cause.

 

So i went and messed around with it last night and I noticed that if i keep repeatedly hitting the release button the door release will clunk like usual than i will hear a single click sound and everything stops making sounds. If i keep on hitting the button it will eventually start working again.
I wonder if that click sound i hear before it stops working is the solenoid malfuntioning? I think i can rule out the switch itself since that click sound comes from the rear of the vehicle. I'm going to try and figure out how to take the plastic panel off the rear quarter panel so i can get in there and really have a good look.

 

baptiste2

I am having the same problem with my fuel tank release. I took the car to the dealer and they could not find any problem with it. I personally think that the 2007 Santa Fe's have some electrical problems that the manufacturers are afraid to admit because of cost. The outer (plastic) cover for my car is cracked because I had to pry the door open.... stay tuned...

 

Unfortunately, checking the solenoid for binding or an open coil isn't that easy. However, I'd suggest that it's not likely that the coil is intermittent, so back there, it's more likely to either be a connection or mechanical issue. Here's how Hyundai recommends access to the solenoid (not fun):

1.Remove the rear seat. (Refer to the Body group - Rear seat).
2.Remove the luggage side trim. (Refer to the internal trim)
3.Open the fuel filler door and disconnect the wiring connector after loosening 2 nuts.
4.Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and No. 2. If there is no continuity replace the fuel filler door release actuator (A).

Note that what they are calling the "fuel filler door release actuator" is what I'm simply calling the "solenoid".

As for the switch up front, that's no fun, either. They abbreviate this set of instructions, and then you get to dig into door panel removal procedures!:

1.Remove the front door trim panel. (Refer to the Body group - front door)
2.Disconnect the switch connector (4P) from wiring.
3.Check the switch for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.
4.If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.

 

In my case the solenoid is dead. After I removed the connector behind the solenoid i used a digital multimeter to see if there is any voltage present, and there was a nice 12.5v every time I pushed the release switch on the driver door. When I tested the solenoid I got back 0.8 ohms which is pretty much a short in my opinion even without knowing the normal value.

And yes, it's a pain in the @$$ to remove the panels and the trim to get to the solenoid. I just did that and it's not funny.

I believe it's possible to avoid all that pain just by removing the panel used to access the rear lamp assembly & the light bulbs. For that you have to have a small/thin hand and kinda know where the solenoid is and how it looks like.

REMEMBER...if the solenoid/switch/wiring is defective you can/should open the fill door by pulling the small T handle from inside the trunk, left/driver side.

The solenoid is hold in place by to screws very easy accessible once you open the fuel door and remove the cap.
On the right side of the cap you'll see 2 screws (painted same color like the car) that can easily be removed with a socket key, or a fixed one...pretty much any kind of key. The screw is about size 10mm, don't remember exactly.
The nuts are welded on the solenoid assembly so don't worry, nothing will fall or get lost. Also the solenoid has some kind of plastic clips around the locking pin. You can see them right in between the screws and around the pin when you open the fill door. All those clips are used just to hold in place the solenoid during the assembly process until the screws are installed. Don't worry, once you removed the screws just wiggle and pull the solenoid and the clips will release the assembly quite easily (or not...).

The assembly is the reverse of the removal....I really love this phrase.

I have a few pictures if anyone interested, not a masterpiece but sometimes can help.
My solenoid is made by HMC and it's a 12v solenoid. Part number is 95720-3K000 and the best price I found so far is $55.

 

Beware of Hyundai stealerships practice


==========================================================================

Updates as of DEC 17 2012

The solenoid is not dead and 0.8 ohms is the normal reading at the terminal. I compared that with a brand new one I just got dirty cheap ($55) from a Hyundai stealership after they matched the online price, not without a fight.

Now the problem is that I got stuck with a brand new one and the stealership is not willing to take it back saying that the part has been used when in fact I only test it to make sure it's working good. If anyone need a brand new OPENER ASSEMBLY - FUEL FILLER DOOR (GAS TANK DOOR) 95720-3K000 just let me know. You can have it for $55 + free shipping. If you live in Arizona I can deliver it for you.

In my case the problem was the Switch that's on the driver's door right underneath the Trunk Release Switch. Beside being smoked pretty bad the plastic inside got melted somehow and the contacts where no longer able to touch each other. I cleaned all that smoke from the contacts with a knife and I cut about 1/8" from the plastic piston that holds the spring in place allowing this way to the contacts to touch each other again. Overall a $0 dollars fix...except the $55 solenoid I got stuck with.

 

you have a trunk release switch on the door of the SantaFe?

 

I also havent seen the T release you are talking about in the SantaFe

 

On the 2008 it is under the driver's arm rest.

 

understood thats where the gas door release is but no trunk release or T handle in back to open the gas door

 

SteveH

There's got to be one. I will check my wife's car when I get home tonight.

 

The manual release is behind the small door back in the rear side panel of the cargo area. The clue is that they've embossed a picture of a gas pump on the outside where you can spot it

 

you have a trunk release switch on the door of the SantaFe?

Plese post a picture.

 

Trunk release??

 

I'm confused, too. We seem to have drifted from one topic to another.

The switch below the armrest on a Santa Fe is for the fuel door release. There is a t-handle style emergency pull for the fuel door inside the panel behind the fuel door area, and it is marked with the picture of a fuel pump.

As for trunk release .. unless recent models have added something I hadn't noticed, it's strictly your hand on the release handle outside the vehicle. Emergency t-handles for a 'trunk' release are only incorporated where the 'trunk' is an enclosed space -- not a Santa Fe design at all.

 

Canderson, thanks for the info on the small panel in the back on the SantaFe I forgot about that, as far as the trunk release I checked back on the other email below "In my case the problem was the Switch that's on the driver's door right underneath the Trunk Release Switch. Beside being smoked pretty bad the plastic inside got melted somehow and the contacts where no longer able to touch each other. I cleaned all that smoke from the contacts with a knife and I cut about 1/8" from the plastic piston that holds the spring in place allowing this way to the contacts to touch each other again. Overall a $0 dollars fix...except the $55 solenoid I got stuck with.
Last edited by 5haggy; 12-17-2012 at 01:53 PM." 5haggy has a Sonata.

 

Yes. Yo have to pry out (with a key, for example) a lid with the carved picture of a gas pump

Inside, you`ll find a carton T and printed FILLER DOOR RELEASE

EMERGENCY HANDLE "

Pull it and ready !!

 

(Ah - the Sonata explains a lot!)

What bothers me is that he had a melted switch. Indicates WAY too much current was being pumped through the switch. If properly sized, one would think that much ought to have blown the 15A fuse before melting the switch. Makes me wonder if the OP had a harness short.

 

Short

One would think if there was a short, after he cleaned it all up it would melt the switch again or pop the fuse? At least he got it working again.

 

For now, yes. But I didn't ever hear that he'd found the root problem, so there's no reason to think that there won't be a repeat performance.

 

stupid mfg. idea to begin with to have a lever release for the gas cover lid which has to be used so often like once per week or so on average. Why can't they just have a manually opening door that you use your hands to open simple and yet will last forever.

 

For the same reason they invented the 'locking gas cap' for vehicles that don't have a remote fuel door release.

 

fuel filler solenoid

Hi everyone.

I know You discuss already this issue few times. I took out my solenoid for fuel filler in my 2007 santa fe. got power on the plug when press the release button on the door (se the solenoid get 12V not sure about the A). solenoid dose not react at all. Hooked up the solenoid directly to battery works just fine. I'm lost please help what should i do next.

Thanks a bunch for any help.

 

fuel filler solenoid

Hi everyone.

I know You discuss already this issue few times. I took out my solenoid for fuel filler in my 2007 santa fe. got power on the plug when press the release button on the door (se the solenoid get 12V not sure about the A). solenoid dose not react at all. Hooked up the solenoid directly to battery works just fine. I'm lost please help what should i do next.

Thanks a bunch for any help.

Hi there, Im facing the same issue right now. So how did you managed to fix your problem?

 

Measure voltage across the solenoid when it is energized by the switch (not direct battery method) and report back.

Also, was the solenoid mounted in place with the fuel door fully closed in both of your tests? I'm thinking you had the door open with leads to the solenoid, or the solenoid was removed during the 'battery' test, and it could be a mechanical binding issue or weak solenoid that only shows up with the door closed and the solenoid mounted in place.

 

Measure voltage across the solenoid when it is energized by the switch (not direct battery method) and report back.

Also, was the solenoid mounted in place with the fuel door fully closed in both of your tests? I'm thinking you had the door open with leads to the solenoid, or the solenoid was removed during the 'battery' test, and it could be a mechanical binding issue or weak solenoid that only shows up with the door closed and the solenoid mounted in place.

When using a multi-meter, it is sometimes as simple as to how you measure the voltage. I've seen people use a ground point bolt in the car and then go to both sides and "see" 12 volts on one side and assume all is okay. Many times it's the ground that is missing. My all time favorite multi-meter story involves a fuse I had in an old Honda from the 70's. I ohmed the suspected fuse with the car off and all checked out okay. It took a while, but found out the fuse would get hot and where it had a hairline crack it would separate. As it cooled when you shut off the engine it would reconnect enough to ohm out okay.

 

That's why I suggested he measure across the solenoid itself, avoiding any attempt to use the chassis as a ground.

As many solenoids as we've seen replaced, I suppose odds are good that's the problem, but it would still be good to find out how he physically had things set up using 'battery direct' testing when he saw the solenoid functioning in what appeared to be a normal manner.

 

what if the button in the door is dead, it doesn't sound when i press it