Be the first to fab your own set of heavy duty links from spherical rod ends and steel tubing..

 

Rockauto lists them as Beck/Arnley parts numbers 1017169 and 1017170 $20.64 per side.

 

Thank you for doing the research!

One thing I bet noone realizes is the Turbo and Hybrid models have different end links then all the other Sonata models incl. SE Non-Turbo. That really surprised me. I thought the only suspension differences where in SE and non SE models. Here is the website for the Beck/arnley Catalog Beck Arnley Online Parts Catalog just WAIT for the page to load then input vehicle info.

 

Turbo and Hybrid Beck/Arnley part #'s

101-7344 Left Frt End Link
101-7345 Right Frt End Link

I just ordered a LH one off of Amazon for 27.94 delivered.

I will install it and then return to comment on the result.

If it fixes it I will replace the RH side.

For $28 it's worth trying out before going thru the hassle of a dealership service experience.

 

interesting.

 

Even more interesting.....

I just received the part and it is a Genuine OEM Hyundai Mobis part and not an aftermarket made part. It came in the Beck/Arnley box but with an OEM part inside. See pics

Going outside now to install and test drive.

I'll keep you guys posted on the result.

 

Even more interesting.....

I just received the part and it is a Genuine OEM Hyundai Mobis part and not an aftermarket made part. It came in the Beck/Arnley box but with an OEM part inside. See pics

Korean packaged parts.. not USA packed.

 

Interesting. I have found the aftermarket parts are at times improved in design over OEM. The last links I bought had grease fittings, and center allen key holes to allow for easier removal to keep the fitting from spinning. OEM did not.

 

The part was a Genuine Hyundai Mobis part with the Authenticity label. The Beck/Arnley box did say part made in Korea on it. The markings on the part were identical to the original part including locations of paint marks.

I installed the LH End Link, rotated the tires and installed my new center caps finally. Unfortunately my noise is still there. Sounds like a bad ball joint when I go over an abrupt change in the road at very slow speeds (under 15mph). The worst is going over the gutters in front of driveways where there is always a lip.

Now it looks like I will have to go the dealership AT LEAST 4 TIMES to get this fixed. The first 2 will of course be NO PROBLEM FOUND!

 

The part was a Genuine Hyundai Mobis part with the Authenticity label. The Beck/Arnley box did say part made in Korea on it. The markings on the part were identical to the original part including locations of paint marks.

I installed the LH End Link, rotated the tires and installed my new center caps finally. Unfortunately my noise is still there. Sounds like a bad ball joint when I go over an abrupt change in the road at very slow speeds (under 15mph). The worst is going over the gutters in front of driveways where there is always a lip.

Now it looks like I will have to go the dealership AT LEAST 4 TIMES to get this fixed. The first 2 will of course be NO PROBLEM FOUND!

What did you find out was the noise? I have a 2011 Limited that have the same if not similar "klunk" noise, same location.

 

Chances of a CV joint having some joint play is usually accompanied with the clunk clunk sound, But the forward drive shaft is normally the right and revers drive shaft is the left one, Next time the wheel is off you can reach in and grab the shaft and try moving it up and down and front to rear as well as rotating the hub clockwise and counter clockwise to see if you see any play or hear the noise you have been hearing. If the left shaft is the revers shaft it is free spinning while driving forwards. Its too early for a CV joint to go bad but there are more people out there with a rattle sound on the left and there could be the chance a specific part was manufactured out of spec, or was poorly packed with lube during assembly.
Mine has the sound coming from the left as well but I can only hear it when driving over speed bumps, during normal driving I don't hear it.

There can be times when source of a sound can be a bear to find, My S-10 had an odd sound I thought was coming from the clutch area but ended up being the u-joint at the Diff end and the sound was traveling the length of the drive line.

 

This is definately a suspension noise. I think I'm going to remove both front end links and then test drive. That will eliminate any sway bar related noise. I can test it in my own driveway since I have an area where blacktop meets concrete. That lip will make the noise every time. If the noise is gone then it's sway bar related. If the noise is still there I believe a bad strut may be my problem. It's a double or maybe triple thunk noise that's like a rapid bounce. I still am not sure about the ball joint or steering though. The noise seems to travel thru the steering also sorta. My money is on a bad strut assembly.

 

You say there is a double or triple clunk/bounce noise? That can mean your strut blew and now it's basically just the spring that is holding the suspension. Hitting bumps, and especially potholes makes the spring bounce up and down freely. If you see a sticky/oily fluid dripping out of your strut then it definitely has a leak or blew fully.

 

I have a 11 2.0t SE and have the same issue....purchased the vehicle CPO a little over a month ago and just started noticing the clunking noise on the front left.....Kinda sounds like a bad control arm bushing or something along those lines.

 

Finally Fixed!!!

Finally got around to having my ball joint/strut noise fixed.

I'll make this quick. After the LF sway bar link, strut, strut mount, steering rack and lower control arm were replaced ( in that order ) it turned out to be the lower control arm that fixed the noise 100%. The other parts made no difference in the noise. The control arm comes with a ball joint and mounting bushings so I can't really say which of the two is the source of the noise but it's fixed now and I am SOOO HAPPY!

 

Thanks!! I thought after inspection a loose lower ball joint was the source.

 

At the time of that repair, I believe I had both noises. I know for sure that the noise I was trying to get rid of was gone after that repair. Hyundai replaced the lower LF control arm which includes the lower ball joint. The noise in the column got worse as time went on becoming a real annoyance until it was fixed. After the column was replaced ( mine was done just prior to the service bulletin release ) my car never drove and felt and sounded so good. It was very hard for me to get rid of it because it was so perfect. Someone got a really nice used '11 Sonata Turbo Limited, with no issues, when they bought my old one.

 

I think Hyundai should do a customer satisfaction campaign to include the bushing install on vehicles that need the new design steering column bushing and also include a 1 time service visit to adjust steering calibrations to the customer's preference on vehicles with adjustable power steering (vehicles w/o the switch of course). Between those 2 repairs on mine I was one happy customer.

Makes me mad though that my 2014 Azera still has the old design bushing!!!