Vehicle goes in Wednesday for further diagnosis.......

Just an update

Duro

 

you know i have this "tapping" noise that has seem to have gotten worse. i can only hear it at idle and i think it only happens at idle. before when i rev it at idle it goes away for a minute.. but then comes back. now i rev it and it comes back almost immediately lol

 

No this noise is a flutter rattle at 1750rpm.......I have a slight knock at idle when really cold, aswell

Duro

 

Well the technician found the upper timing belt idler bearing was no good now....

So I guess well see, I still think it's a tappet, or an oil pressure/supply problem

Duro

 

Well the noise still remains, and is unchanged from the first noise I complained about at 1500kms.

I will call the technician on monday, and see what were gunna do now.

I am not impressed now, and have now lost my patience. I will begin to start making demands, and expect a resolution to this situation. Weather it will be dealt with on a dealership level, or it will be escalated to arbitration will be up to the dealership, and Hyundai Canada

This is now enough.......and it will be fixed to my expectations, not Hyundai's

Sincerly one pissed off person
Duro

 

Well the noise still remains, and is unchanged from the first noise I complained about at 1500kms.

I will call the technician on monday, and see what were gunna do now.

I am not impressed now, and have now lost my patience. I will begin to start making demands, and expect a resolution to this situation. Weather it will be dealt with on a dealership level, or it will be escalated to arbitration will be up to the dealership, and Hyundai Canada

This is now enough.......and it will be fixed to my expectations, not Hyundai's

Sincerly one pissed off person
Duro

Is this noise really that serious? I mean, does it affect the car's drivability or is it just a sound effect you would rather not hear? Is it that loud? If it's not affecting the drivability of the car, why are you allowing it to upset you so much?

I remain a bit confused by how upset you are because I think I have the exact same noise you have. My Accent makes a strange noise that can only be described as a metallic fluttering, jingling, gurgling or pinging right around 1700 rpms and makes itself most audible when the engine is put under strain, ie accelerating without forcing a downshift. I can hear it a little from inside the car with the radio off but it is quite noticeable with the windows down, especially when passing something that bounces the sound right back at me (building, car etc). The noise starts around 1700 and stops around 1900 rpms. I've always heard this noise. It's odd and a little annoying but the car hasn't suffered in reliablity, performance or fuel economy from it so I just chalk it up to the nature of the beast. I've heard similar noises from past cars and it was always caused by bogging the engine, which accelerating around 1700 rpms can easily be considered, especially in a low torque motor like the Accent's. As a mechanic, I'm sure you strive for mechanical perfection (which doesn't exist), but if we are experiencing the same noise, you really should just relax and stop giving yourself ulcers over it. It would be difficult to prove that this noise is way out of the norm in arbitration, especially if the car's drivability has in no way been affected (ie no check engine lights, no bad performance, no bad fuel economy).

I close by asking you this: suppose the noise really is "normal", but all your effort pays off with Hyundai giving you a whole new motor, only for you to hear the same thing....Would all the aggravation you went through really be worth it? In other words, is this noise that can only be heard at 1700 rpms really that serious?

 

I get the same problem too. It sounds like a diesel engine when cold. When I start it in the morning, when it's below 10*C I can hear it. I thought it was just the engine being broken-in, since its a new car. 2012 Elantra.

I have 1200kms on it now. I hope this does not remain as I drive

 

I don't yet have a recording of my exact noise......

But this is the noise I am talking about......Mine sounds exactly the same, right down to pitch and length of the noise.

This is when I first knew I wasn't the only one with this problem

Duro

 

I don't yet have a recording of my exact noise......

But this is the noise I am talking about......Mine sounds exactly the same, right down to pitch and length of the noise.

This is when I first knew I wasn't the only one with this problem

06 hyundai accent piston slap? - YouTube

Duro

my 2010 with now 43k miles on it makes the same exact noise. Been for about 1 year or more. I changed the belts out and i thought it fixed it for a while then it came back. I don't know if it's a pulley/belt issue or the lifter noise. It does go away after about 2 minutes though. I figure I have 60k more miles of warranty and i keep my receipts for oil/filters so i am covered if it goes koplowy. My nissan xterra, bought new in late 2006, has 99k miles on it and it makes ticking noises etc as wel, but not the knocking noise we are hearing. I think smaller 4 cylinder engines are jsut noisier.. we shall see.....

 

Ok, thanks for the video. That person's issue and what you describe is simply valve lifter noise. It's a minor noise that afflicts many cars and doesn't affect long term reliability. As a mechanic, I think you know this. My friend's 2012 Elantra made the same noise recently without even having to rev the engine, but it was due for an oil change and the noise went down after the oil was changed. My Accent has made this noise as well, though normally only when it's getting closer for an oil change. My former 92 Miata made this noise constantly, hot or cold, all the way up to 3000 rpms sometimes, and she was running like a top at 143000 miles. My 93 Diamante made the noise and was running beautifully at 173k, as did a 91 Stanza. Mazda Miata, 626, 929, and MPV, as well as a number of Mitsubishis, Chryslers (I could go on and on) are all known to have valve lifter noise. All of those engines can easily last 200k.

I understand your profession trains you to zero in attention to any little noise but I honestly think that in this case, you are overthinking and letting it ruin your ownership experience. If you can get them to diagnose a bad lifter and replace it, great, but if not, its not going to affect the car's ability to last you a long time. And being that many Accent owners describe the same noise, I'd have to say it would be considered pretty normal for this car. More than likely its a design flaw, probably too narrow oil passageways in the lifter itself, which was what caused Mazda's problems.

 

Absolutely understood, and acceptable......however,

I have mentioned that I think it's a lifter, or an oil pressure/supply issue to both dealerships. I told them that it's not a safety issue, it is more of an annoyance. But I would like it addressed, and I have been back and forth for over a year, with no resolution. This is where my frustration is coming from.

A lifter that is making noise is defective, and needs to be replaced....as per Hyundai's Warranty Booklet "parts found to be defective in operation, or workmanship will be replaced by an authurized dealership within the specified warranty period at no charge to customer"

So it's obviously a defective part, why am I having to fight to get this motor fixed?. When the Hyundai Warranty Contract states it will be repaired.

If this vehicle was purchased used, or was out of it's 100K powertrain warranty, I would deal with it, and put some lucas in it. However I purchased this car NEW with 19km on it, and paid alot of money for it......therefor I expect it fixed, and running perfectly.

Just my 2 cents
Duro

 

Put some Lucas in it ??!....now there is a wise move .

 

Lucas oil stabilizer worked wonders on my 84 GTI. It greatly reduced valvetrain noise, helped it idle smoother and kept the engine from burning oil even though it had close to if not over 200k (odometer broke at 130k). After my experience with the product, I believe in its usefulness, especially on older engines or ones with noisy valvetrains. I bet it would shut the noisy lifter up on Duro's Accent! Matter of fact, Duro, why not give it a try and see if the noise decreases or disappears? At least that way you will know for sure it's the lifter, but be prepared for decreased gas mileage.

 

From my experience, little 4 cylinders are always really chatty.

 

go listen to a video of miata hla tick. general consensus is its normal, not harmful. and its loud as ****.

 

My 92 Miata had this issue. Extremely loud and a little annoying but by God, it was very reliable and extremely fun to drive so the noise was overlooked

 

For your viewing enjoyment, clicky for video (I hope...) :lurk:



This was early this morning, temps around 65F I think, car was sitting for about 10 hours. Oil is walmart supertech 5w30 with 3200 miles on it.

 

the ****? sounds like your car is grinding metal, brah

 

That's sound's really nothin' - you should hear a DSM with defective HLAs....

 

Meh it's all good.. It's been doing this much of its life and it ain't dead yet. Besides, the car is almost at 99% of Hyundai's engineered life expectancy, what more could I ask for? heh

This noise is actually rather mild compared to a couple of other 4-bangers I've had run-ins with, GM and most recently Toyota. In both cases they were considered "normal" after repeated visits and the only thing I got out of fighting with them was a lot of stress and wasted time. Hence why I haven't even bothered to bring this up to Hyundai, I have more important things to worry about than a brief noise that goes away.

This thing will probably still be running fine at 200k. I don't see it affecting value much, it's still a Hyundai. And an old Hyundai, which we know as they age and get a ton of miles on them, having an empty tank is enough to consider the car totalled. :bwekk:

 

Ya thats what mine sounds like, it's bad.....and it's annoying, and very embarrising what people ask you what wrong with your new car.

I still feel it's a defective part, and will continue to push until it is resolved

Duro

 

When I was a Ford mechanic back in the 70's we had a piston slap problem with engines . After a few minutes of warm up it was gone and I never saw any get worse or an engine failure because of it .

 

Well I have a sit down meeting on march 22nd with the DSM, so we will see what Hyundai is going to do for a customer who's time was wasted for 11 months at one dealership, and still no resolution with this dealership with this engine noise.

I have 2 independant invoices from other garages that state it is excessive, and unusual, to counter their claims that it's normal

So we'll see what happens

Duro

 

Do you mean May, 22? What is DSM? Anyway, good luck and keep the updates coming. Cheers.

 

Ya sorry may 22nd

DSM - Hyundai District Service Manager (kinda the manager for a whole region)

Duro

 

DSM = Diamond Star Motors. The product of a joint venture between Mitsubishi and Chrysler in the '90s. Mainly refers to the Mitsu Eclipse, Eagle Talon, and the Plymouth Laser.

 

Not in this context..........

DSM - Regional District Service Manager. This is a service manager that oversee's many locations, and deals with mostly large warranty issues.

Duro

 

so i think my car is beginning to make this noise. but only when its cold, but i think its cuz i dont hold the key enough when i go to start it

 

Doesn't surprise me, clearly this is a common issue with these cars. Even though all of them apparently do this, doesn't mean there all not defective.

Remember the lower intake leak problem GM had, and was apparently a isolated problem.......until it some people spoke up, and said fix this....

Also notice how GM went bankrupt just before they were supposed to pay out the $millions$ for the class action lawsuit. Funny how things work out like that.

But back on topic, I plan on fighting this until it is fixed to my liking. I now have lost my patience, and have a lot of time involved. That time won't be wasted by me giving up

Duro

 

hah. I think my dad's Impala with the 3800 just started leaking oil. Shop quoted him a couple grand to fix it. he said no, and if it starts getting really bad, bye bye Impala, hello new Kia Optima

 

It will only get worse. The only fix is to remove the intake and re-seal the whole thing. Expect to break every POS plastic vacuum-line, strip at least one fastener, and curse. A Lot.

 

Strange how that issue with the 3100 / 3400 and other GM engines went on for years yet they never really did anything to re engineer the problem to really fix it so it was a non issue . I wonder if it is still an issue with current engines from the same family ?

A lot of car makes have had certain issues over the years and some have been good to repair while others have left the owner hanging .

 

There were updated gaskets after the 2003 model year that addressed this problem, and then in 2005-2006 they stepped up to the 3500 which is not affected by this problem

Now back on topic

Duro

 

yeah mine happens very quickly and goes away tho... i think its more caused by me not holding the key long enought to start her over

 

I changed oil over the weekend and found its now quieter... I had over 4k on the oil that I just dumped out.

I had been running cheap Walmart super tech 5w30 (a Mobil product) and a Hyundai filter.

This time I picked up some cheap Meijer house brand 5w30 (Citgo I believe, according to BITOG.). Also used a Purolator PureOne filter this time.

Scared the heck out of me, I got pressure shortly after the engine started, then lost it again for 2 secs and then the light went out. Forgot to prefill the filter which likely didn't help and I was a little low on oil (i start off with a little over 3 qts and top up from there as to not overfill.). Hope that's all it was, I see it getting pressure now sometimes before i'm done cranking.

Anyway, still noticeably rattly when cold yet much quieter now than she's been for a while. I figure I will keep trying different dino and see what happens with the noise. Maybe next change I'll actually spend the extra two bucks on name brand oil. Treat it nice for making it over the 100,000 mark. Heh





Sent from my Autoguide.com iPhone app

 

Update.....

Dealership Service manager, and shop foreman came out to work 2 weeks ago to listen to the noise, after the vehicle had been sitting for 4 1/2 hours and the car performed beautifully, the noise was very noticeable, and destinctive.

I told them if the vehicle was sitting for 2 weeks I would take the noise as normal bleed down of the HLA's, however the vehicle was driven to work that morning and only sat for 4 hours, which is unacceptable.

I called the service manager this week, and he said they started many customer accents which came in for service throughout the week, and mine does sound different, and and abnormal. They are gunna set up a loaner for me, and start digging into this problem.

I told them "thats fine, and I will not accept return of the vehicle until this problem is resolved.....so I hope you give me a long term loaner"

So we will see what happens. I mentioned to them that this problem will be solved at this dealership, by the end of this year. Weather they do it on their own, or I force their hand.

They have 3 options if I force their hand....

1) Replace the affected engine with a NEW complete long block assembly, I will be there for the entire install watching/inspecting, and making sure all procedures are followed. The vehicle will not be touched unless I am present. I will require a chair to sit on

2) Purchase the vehicle back inclusive of all fees, accessories, taxes, and interest...etc. Basically my total financed purchase price.

3) Put me in a new vehicle......mine is a 2 door, top of the line model.....I will expect the same (veloster/genisys coupe)

Welcome to Duro the *******....this has just begun.

Duro

 

Yeah, Good Luck with #2 or #3; possibly #1 as well....