I just did my first oil change on my 2014 Azera. I though you might like a step-by-step guide, so I wrote up a detailed one for you:
1. You need: Oil filter, 6 quarts of oil, funnel, oil drain basin, socket wrench, 17mm and 27mm 6-point sockets, 17mm box wrench, mallet, torque wrench, disposable gloves to protect your hands from touching used oil.
2. Put the vehicle on ramps. To use the brake to modulate power when driving up the ramps, press the brake first, then the throttle. Keep the brake pressed the entire time. Pressing the throttle first, then the brake, will activate the brake throttle override and drop the engine to an idle. If you then release the brake, the engine will rev to the current throttle position and you may overshoot the ramps.
3. Remove the engine cover by pulling up and unsnapping it from the four mounting posts.
4. Remove the oil filler cap and lift and unseat the dipstick allow air to come in while the oil is being drained.
5. Loosen the oil filter canister cap with a 6-point 27mm socket. A 6-point socket reduces the chances of rounding off the plastic edges of the hex head on the oil filter canister cap. Tear a hole in the middle of a paper towel and place it down around the bottom oil filter canister to catch oil drips. Then, unscrew the cap and lift it straight up. If the filter doesn't come out with the cap, set the cap aside in a paper towel and remove the filter by wiggling and pulling it straight up from the canister. Do not turn the filter as pull up because there is a protrusion on the bottom that fits into a socket. Have a paper towel handy to put the filter into to catch dripping oil. Throw the old filter away. Wipe any oil from the lip of the filter canister with a paper towel, but be careful to not leave any towel residue behind.
6. While the oil filler cap and the oil filter canister caps are removed, use care make sure nothing falls inside.
7. Position the drain basin under the oil drain plug. Remove the 17mm oil drain plug. It may take tapping on the end of a 17mm box wrench with a mallet to break it free. Once the plug is loose, remove it by hand and be ready to pull it out of the way just as it becomes free so your hand does not get covered by oil. At first, the oil will drain in a stream about 6 inches towards the rear of the vehicle, then, as the stream gets smaller, it will move towards the front, so position the drain basin so it catches both extremes. It is good to periodically check the draining stream to make sure it is not missing the basin. The stream will trickle for a long time.
8. Allow 5 minutes for the oil to drain, particularly so that the filter, the filter canister and internal engine will be drained. While the oil is draining, remove the aluminum washer from the drain plug. If the washer is stuck, be careful to not scratch the sealing surface of the drain plug head in the process of getting it loose. Replace the drain plug washer with the new one from the plastic bag in the new oil filter box.
9. Note the exact groove position of the o-ring on the oil filter canister cap. Being careful to not spill any oil that may still be inside the canister cap, remove and discard the old o-ring and replace it with the new one from the plastic bag in the new oil filter box. Be sure you put the new o-ring in the same groove that the old one was in. To keep from damaging the oil filter canister cap or new o-ring, do not use a sharp tool on the o-ring.
10. Apply oil to the small o-ring on the bottom of the new oil filter element, and the large o-ring you just installed on the oil filter canister cap.
11. Align the oil filter element so that the protrusion at the bottom fits into the corresponding socket at the bottom of the oil filter canister and wiggle and press the element straight down into the canister until it seats. When seated, it extends 1” above the canister. Make sure the hole at the top of the filter is exactly in the center.
12. Align the oil filter canister cap so that its internal filter clip fits into the hole in the top of the oil filter element, then press down until the threads engage properly and tighten the oil filter canister cap with a 27mm socket and a torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs. When properly tightened, the cap should contact the lip around the canister. Do not over-tighten.
13. Once the oil has finished dripping, clean off any oil from around the oil drain plug hole and screw the drain plug and new washer back in place, then tighten it to 29 ft. lbs with a 17mm socket and a torque wrench.
14. Carefully clean up any place oil may have dripped on under-car components while it was draining.
15. Verify that the dipstick is still not seated so air can escape from the crankcase as you put oil in.
16. Slowly put 3 quarts of oil in the oil filler hole, wait a minute for it to settle, then put 2 more quarts in.
17. Fully seat the dipstick back in place and install the oil filler cap. Remove and set the oil drain basin aside.
18. Start the engine, make sure the oil light quickly goes off, then check for leaks around the oil filter canister.
19. Check for underhood tools, then temporarily set the hood down. Remove any items from under the car and slowly back it off the ramps, remove the ramps, and pull the vehicle back in place. Turn off the engine.
20. Wait ten minutes, then check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil a bit at a time to bring it to the full mark.
21. Clean up any oil drips from underhood components, then reinstall the engine cover by aligning the four sockets with the mounting posts and pushing it firmly down until it snaps into place and does not easily lift up.
22. Pour the used oil from the catch basin into the empty oil containers and properly dispose of it.
23. Clean up the oil drain basin and tools. Keep the UPC label from the filter box for warranty documentation.
1. You need: Oil filter, 6 quarts of oil, funnel, oil drain basin, socket wrench, 17mm and 27mm 6-point sockets, 17mm box wrench, mallet, torque wrench, disposable gloves to protect your hands from touching used oil.
2. Put the vehicle on ramps. To use the brake to modulate power when driving up the ramps, press the brake first, then the throttle. Keep the brake pressed the entire time. Pressing the throttle first, then the brake, will activate the brake throttle override and drop the engine to an idle. If you then release the brake, the engine will rev to the current throttle position and you may overshoot the ramps.
3. Remove the engine cover by pulling up and unsnapping it from the four mounting posts.
4. Remove the oil filler cap and lift and unseat the dipstick allow air to come in while the oil is being drained.
5. Loosen the oil filter canister cap with a 6-point 27mm socket. A 6-point socket reduces the chances of rounding off the plastic edges of the hex head on the oil filter canister cap. Tear a hole in the middle of a paper towel and place it down around the bottom oil filter canister to catch oil drips. Then, unscrew the cap and lift it straight up. If the filter doesn't come out with the cap, set the cap aside in a paper towel and remove the filter by wiggling and pulling it straight up from the canister. Do not turn the filter as pull up because there is a protrusion on the bottom that fits into a socket. Have a paper towel handy to put the filter into to catch dripping oil. Throw the old filter away. Wipe any oil from the lip of the filter canister with a paper towel, but be careful to not leave any towel residue behind.
6. While the oil filler cap and the oil filter canister caps are removed, use care make sure nothing falls inside.
7. Position the drain basin under the oil drain plug. Remove the 17mm oil drain plug. It may take tapping on the end of a 17mm box wrench with a mallet to break it free. Once the plug is loose, remove it by hand and be ready to pull it out of the way just as it becomes free so your hand does not get covered by oil. At first, the oil will drain in a stream about 6 inches towards the rear of the vehicle, then, as the stream gets smaller, it will move towards the front, so position the drain basin so it catches both extremes. It is good to periodically check the draining stream to make sure it is not missing the basin. The stream will trickle for a long time.
8. Allow 5 minutes for the oil to drain, particularly so that the filter, the filter canister and internal engine will be drained. While the oil is draining, remove the aluminum washer from the drain plug. If the washer is stuck, be careful to not scratch the sealing surface of the drain plug head in the process of getting it loose. Replace the drain plug washer with the new one from the plastic bag in the new oil filter box.
9. Note the exact groove position of the o-ring on the oil filter canister cap. Being careful to not spill any oil that may still be inside the canister cap, remove and discard the old o-ring and replace it with the new one from the plastic bag in the new oil filter box. Be sure you put the new o-ring in the same groove that the old one was in. To keep from damaging the oil filter canister cap or new o-ring, do not use a sharp tool on the o-ring.
10. Apply oil to the small o-ring on the bottom of the new oil filter element, and the large o-ring you just installed on the oil filter canister cap.
11. Align the oil filter element so that the protrusion at the bottom fits into the corresponding socket at the bottom of the oil filter canister and wiggle and press the element straight down into the canister until it seats. When seated, it extends 1” above the canister. Make sure the hole at the top of the filter is exactly in the center.
12. Align the oil filter canister cap so that its internal filter clip fits into the hole in the top of the oil filter element, then press down until the threads engage properly and tighten the oil filter canister cap with a 27mm socket and a torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs. When properly tightened, the cap should contact the lip around the canister. Do not over-tighten.
13. Once the oil has finished dripping, clean off any oil from around the oil drain plug hole and screw the drain plug and new washer back in place, then tighten it to 29 ft. lbs with a 17mm socket and a torque wrench.
14. Carefully clean up any place oil may have dripped on under-car components while it was draining.
15. Verify that the dipstick is still not seated so air can escape from the crankcase as you put oil in.
16. Slowly put 3 quarts of oil in the oil filler hole, wait a minute for it to settle, then put 2 more quarts in.
17. Fully seat the dipstick back in place and install the oil filler cap. Remove and set the oil drain basin aside.
18. Start the engine, make sure the oil light quickly goes off, then check for leaks around the oil filter canister.
19. Check for underhood tools, then temporarily set the hood down. Remove any items from under the car and slowly back it off the ramps, remove the ramps, and pull the vehicle back in place. Turn off the engine.
20. Wait ten minutes, then check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil a bit at a time to bring it to the full mark.
21. Clean up any oil drips from underhood components, then reinstall the engine cover by aligning the four sockets with the mounting posts and pushing it firmly down until it snaps into place and does not easily lift up.
22. Pour the used oil from the catch basin into the empty oil containers and properly dispose of it.
23. Clean up the oil drain basin and tools. Keep the UPC label from the filter box for warranty documentation.
