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DIY Blend Door Temp motor / actuator with pics

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276K views 146 replies 72 participants last post by  hmartek  
#1 ·
DIY newbie here. I've been trying more and more DIY stuff, so I figured I'd tackle the blend door / actuator issue. It was surprisingly easy and I thought I'd lay it out in some pics in case anyone else with this issue wanted to try it themselves. Found the part for $46. Dealer/mechanic might want $250-300 for the repair.

New at posting pics too so hope this works...

Symptoms: Passenger side would only blow HOT air on '08 Limited.
Problem: Passenger side Blend Door Motor / Temp Actuator is bad. This part is called different things by different people. Bottom line is that it is the thingy that controls the temp of the air flow. Not to be confused with the motor/actuator that controls what vents air flow comes out of.

Hopefully the photos with narrative are clear.

Start by disconnecting the negative lead on battery.

Then, you'll need to remove the glove box and its frame. Remove lower panel under dash/glove box. Then there's a piece of duct to remove. Once removed, you have fairly good access to the motor.

The installed motor has 6 screws. 3 outer screws hold the motor frame in place. 3 inner screws hold the motor to its frame. No need to remove those. Only unscrew the 3 outer screws and remove entire motor assembly. Install new motor. Lining up the motor's guide plate with the pin for the blend door arm is a little tricky. May take a couple trys but you'll get it. Replace 3 retaining screws. Reconnect negative on battery. Fire it up and dial the temp knob all the way up and all the way down and watch the new motor working to open and close blend door. Reverse the steps of disassembly of the duct and glove box. Done. Pat self on back.

I order the replacement from Amazon. It listed as Dorman 604-308 but what you get appears to be manufactured by Woory which is the OEM manufacturer in Korea.

The only issue was that the part I received had a guide plate (see pics - kinda looks like human ear) that appeared to be a mirror image of the old guide plate as if it was meant for the driver's side. However, while looking for the part, I didn't see any distinction between parts for left or right side. So, I just popped off the old guide plate and snapped it onto the new motor.

So, not a difficult job at all but feeling pretty proud that I DIY'd it!

Let me know if you have any questions
 

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#7 ·
Thank you Tim,
Just a couple of quick questions.

The air conditioning is not working on my left hand side (driver side). It is working fine on the right side (passenger side).

The heating is working on both sides, and the air ventilation fan too.

The only issue is the air conditioning which is not cooling the driver side of the car.

Is this likely to the the Actuator?

thanks
 
#8 ·
Yes, those are the symptoms. No cool air. Only heat. Look at the last picture in my post...that's the driver's side motor as viewed from the drivers floor. You can confirm by unscrewing the motor and slowly pulling it away from its mounted position...you should see and hear the door flap shut once it disengaged from the motor holding it open. Then, you should feel cool air flowing (of course, now the hot air won't work though). This will confirm its the motor.
 
#11 ·
Tim,

I received the item, made the changes, quite a simple process as you described.
Only problem is it has made no difference.

It might be I have an electrical fault.

As I mentioned above
- warm heating works on both side
- ventilation works on both sides
- only issue is no air conditioning on driver side, but heats ok

The car has 250,000km and is from 2007
Any thoughts?
 
#14 ·
Tim,
I checked the actuator arm it is attached ok.

What I didn't mention before is that the zircon problem only started after I had my clock spring replaced in a garage.

When I told them of the zircon problem they said it was unrelated, but it only started after the clock spring was replaced.
 
#15 ·
Ok, starting to get out of my league. I don't see how the clockspring would effect it unless something electrical happened. Is power getting to the actuator? Can you see it, feel it operating when you dial the thermostat up and down? Is there any duct work under the driver's side that may have been knocked loose? I'm just grasping now. Sorry this one is turning out to be difficult for you. Let us know what it was once you get it diagnosed.
 
#16 ·
Power is getting to the actuator, I can feel it operating when I turn the thermostat dial.

The garage said he thought it was an electrical issue, but said to fully know they will have to dismantle the dash board it will be a big job they say.

Is it possible that the air con cylinder needs to be refilled?

I recharged the air con 6 months ago.
 
#17 ·
Tim, Thanks a lot for starting this thread! It has been very helpful.

I have a 2007 veracruz with dual temp controls. Driver side was only blowing hot air. Ordered the blend door and installed with the aid of your pictures. Turned the vehicle on and the controls to full cool and nice cool air came out. High fived the wife who was helping me.

Swung the controller to full heat and noticed the driver side started to warm up but would not get as warm as the passenger side. The new blend door is definately working, just not swinging the damper to full heat. I took the motor back out and noticed i could swing the thingy by hand and the temperature on the driver side would get hot like the passenger side. It swings smoothly and doesnt seem to bind. So, the door is swinging, its just not going to full heat under control. It will go to full heat with the motor off when swung by hand.

Im kind of baffled and plotting my next move. I cant really see how i put it back on wrong or it wouldn't be working at all. Looking at how may wires go to the motor im wondering what makes it go to full heat. Thinking about ordering another actuator and trying again. Also thinking about taking the motor off and seeing how much it rotates when going from full cool to full heat. Not sure what that would tell me though...

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
#18 ·
Update...

i read another thread that suggested turning the car on with the new motor not in position, maually move the damper handle to the heat position, turn the controls to heat and let the motor turn to heat position, turn auto off and install actuator. I decided to try this thinking maybe I didnt have it "in the groove" of the ear thingy.

Took the actuator down which im getting pretty good at now. Turned the car on and moved the temperature from hot/cold and cold/hot while looking at the acutator which was still plugged in. It didnt move... About then my wifey said "im almost positive i gave you the new part"...

After looking at the pictures i took before starting we determined I had put the old part back in! When the controls were calling for full cool the compressor was engaged and sending cold air out. When the controls were on full heat the damper was not changing, but the compressor was not running so the air coming out the vent was cabin temperature.

We both got a good laugh when we figured out what happened.

Thanks again for the pictures and starting this thread! I couldnt have done the job without.
 
#21 ·
Funny! Glad it all worked out and that the thread was of assistance to you.
Hi Tim
I just want to say thank you again for this post;
yesterday I change the blend actuator, and it was easy following the steps.

As a humble addition, it´s good to get a short screwdriver, specially to remove the upper screw (I had to use a Victorinox).

If you ever come to Argentina, I´ll invite you a beer! :beer:

Tks & rgds
nacho
 
#24 ·
I replaced the passenger side actuator and all is well. I also swapped the lever from the old one to the new one as mentioned above.

I also found that connecting the the new actuator to the wire connector before mounting, turning the car on, and turning A/C on to the Coldest setting moved the lever to an position for easy install. The lever/rod on the vehicle connected to the "door" also needs to be in the down position. Hard to explain but basically if you move the lever on the car side up and down with A/C on one position will blow out hot air other position cold.
 
#27 ·
Replaced actuator on blend door it works but still blows warm air


When you remove your actuator, you can manually move the blend control door by moving the metal rod on the mechanism. If you go to one extreme you will get cold air; move to the other extreme and you will get warm air. If you can vary the air temp in this way, the actuator is the most likely culprit.


You have to make sure the mechanism is captured correctly in the actuator. Plug in the actuator, set the car for max heat, let the actuator move in the appropriate direction, then unplug the actuator. Move the car's metal rod control to the extreme heat position, then assemble the actuator to the vehicle.


I will note that I just replaced the passenger's actuator with a new part from the dealer and the new actuator was dead! The actuator would not move. I returned the part to my dealer and found the part at another dealership--sure enough it worked properly.




Hope this helps.
 
#30 ·
Just wanted to say thanks to Tim for the post! It made the job so easy on my 2008 Elantra, which was pretty much identical to your pictures on how to remove and replace. Got the part in today, cost me $36, and took me about 30 minutes total and I now have heat again. It probably would have taken me many hours and a lot of frustration if not for the pictures.