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Cold ticking sound- getting louder

9.9K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  parkermontblanc86  
#1 ·
Alright so my car is up to 112k miles, other than oil change, a battery,tires, and a new ignition (tumblers fell apart somehow) its had zero maintenance really done to it. Which I know, this means its long over due for things like spark plugs, timing belt, and other mic. stuff. Its almost all highway miles, and really has no problems. I haven't put much into it because it hardly gets driven in the summer since I ride my motorcycle. The only issue is that Indiana has had a lot of rain this year so ive been driving it more.

The Problem- for months now its made a light ticking sound on start-up for about 30 seconds, and it fades away. If I rev the engine the sound gets faster, but still takes time to go away. As of Recently, the sound has gotten louder for about the first 10 seconds, and I'm worried it may become a serious issue and leave me stranded because I drive about an hour one way to work every day.
So before I start throwing parts at it, where should I start?
Timing belt?
Valve Adjustment? (not sure how to do this but I'm sure You guys have a guide)
Plugs?

No I'm not running a FRAM Filter, its a Mobile 1, with full synthetic oil changed about every 6-7k miles.
I plan to do the belt and spark plugs as soon as I get some consistent time off, but that may not be until it gets cold again.

Thanks for any reply's just hoping this isn't crazy expensive to fix, or that its nothing.
 
#3 ·
besides the timing belt, i don't see how any of those will help the issue at hand. even the timing belt is very very unlikely to cause a ticking problem and would be due to valves. don't throw random parts at an unknown issue - it only complicates the problem.

first things first, norman. you need to diagnose the problem. my first approach would be a simple mechanics stethoscope. start it up while its cold, try to find out where its coming from. problems could be as simple as valve lash, right up to a faulty oil pump. with that in mind, my second step would be to test the oil pressure at cold start with an external shop gauge. if the tick is from the top of the engine, definite valve problem. bottom would be rod bearings. somewhere else, try to narrow down the location and i'm sure we can help if you are unsure.
 
#4 ·
Two ways to fix the problem, the hard way is rebuild the engine getting all bearing clearances back to factory spec, fit original equipment low restriction (lets dirt through) oil filter. Or the easy fix, at 112K miles, treat your engine to some slightly thicker oil, these engines have Hydraulic lash adjusters with normal engine wear the gallery pressures begin to fall and with ultra light oil they bleed down fast, they will also take longer to fill due to lower oil pressure. In my diesel I run 10W40 in my petrol I run 15W40, the petrol engine used to have lots of upper engine noise, now it's silent.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies, I've been meaning to scope it just haven't had the time on a cold start, I typically get up with just enough time to get ready and leave for work. I'll be sure to mess with it tomorrow since I'm off. I think I will try an OEM Oil Filter first, It's due for an oil change in about 2 k anyway, Maybe after I narrow down the sound I will have better luck. May try to get a video as well if it'll help.

I know the timing belt Is almost on its second change, I just know if I change it, something else will come up, its typically my luck with cars. Not to mention I have a friend with an 07 Accent, and he made it to 200k before even doing plugs. at about 205k now, still has no intention on doing a timing belt. very much a "if its not broken, don't fix it" attitude. I know I need one done. I just wont have time time for a few more months, and If I'm lucky, all this rain will go away and It'll just sit for the last 2+.months of riding season anyway.

Thanks again for the replies, Ill be sure to update sometime this week.

If it Helps, It ONLY does it after the car has sat for about 12+ hours, never any other time. So that's the reason I haven't been horribly concerned as of yet.
 
#7 ·
I know the timing belt Is almost on its second change, I just know if I change it, something else will come up, its typically my luck with cars. Not to mention I have a friend with an 07 Accent, and he made it to 200k before even doing plugs. at about 205k now, still has no intention on doing a timing belt. very much a "if its not broken, don't fix it" attitude.
Not to shave too fine a point on the quill, but that is exactly the WRONG attitude to take toward a vehicle equipped with an interference-valve engine utilising a timing-belt. It WILL bite him in the arse.

Hard.

Once it's "broken" - there likely IS no "fixing" it, without a complete engine-replacement.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I am guessing the ticking is just hla tick. many mazdas use HLAs and as they get up there in miles, its basically considered normal. My miata did it every day. My MPV does it occasionally if it has been sitting a while. Yes, using a thicker viscosity oil will quiet them down.

My Accent ticks at startup now too and goes away after 30 seconds or so like you said, after i drive home from work and stop to get the mail, its generally ticking very quietly. (I also drive an hour each way daily)

Its summer, its hot outside, next oil change I will probably switch from 5w20 to 5w30 or something. When I had a miata going from 5w30 to 10w30 or 40 eliminated my HLA tick completely.
 
#10 ·
My eye had skipped over the timing belt line.

Yeah, you really need to do that pronto.

If you replace the timing belt on your terms, yourself with no outside labor you're likely to get through the entire project in one day and under $300 including having lunch delivered.

If you let the belt break, it will happen whenever it happens, wherever you are. At MOST you will get about 3 seconds warning before valves and pistons collide. If the belt breaks while idling in your own driveway, you can probably get out of it for around $900-1100 assuming that you drop everything and spend a day or two doing it all yourself. It will only cost more if it happens on a trip and you need a tow/hotel/taxi to & from machine shop etc.

If the belt breaks while the car is under load at high RPM it's usually cheapest just to replace the entire engine with a used one.
 
#16 ·
to chime in here again, this is not a difficult job. you just have to be careful. don't have to pull the engine or anything like that. my suggestion is to do the water pump at the same time since it's behind the belt. at the same time you're doing a half-assed coolant flush by putting new coolant in. with the timing belt, buy a timing belt kit that comes with the idler and tensioner pullies. it's a lot cheaper that way...i did this with my accent for about $300 CAN.
 
#11 · (Edited)
well under $300 to diy the timing belt? Probably well under $150 with all the belts and including a replacement water pump. :D

you can buy the oem parts on ebay.
2006 2010 Kia Rio 1 6 Complete Timing Belt Kit | eBay

just add the accessory belts from rockauto or a local shop and you are ready to do the job. If you are handy under the hood of a car its an easy job. There is a DIY floating around in the forums here.
 
#12 ·
Yeah I read through the DIY already, seems like something I could do easily, just finding the time right now is key. Busy time of the year and I work nights so my "days off" are really nights off, I'm not a huge fan of working on cars at night with no one around. Know of too many people getting hurt.
As soon as it clears up and I can ride my bike again Ill just do it over the span of 2 evenings or so. Seems simple enough.

As far as the ticking sound goes, It sounds more like the upper part of the motor, one of my mechanic friends finally came and listened to it, said it just sounds like a lifter? something like that, and said it was pretty harmless if it only does it on first start up every day, and goes away before I drive away. If it starts happening all the time is when I know Its actually an issue. But thanks for all the replies, Hopefully by the end of this month I can have that belt replaced.
 
#13 ·
Could Someone clarify tho, do you actually have to take apart the camshaft sprocket and remove the cylinder head to do this? I Thought the belt was easier to replace than this. But this is what it shows on hyundaitechinfo.com

Any advice? I will hopefully order the parts here soon. Anything else you recommend I replace? other than the water pump.

And is there a better way to check the tension on it? it basically says reapply tension pulley and add pressure.... sounds like it should be harder than that? or at least more technical.

thanks again for the help. just trying to figure everything out BEFORE I attempt this.
 
#15 ·
Could Someone clarify tho, do you actually have to take apart the camshaft sprocket and remove the cylinder head to do this? I Thought the belt was easier to replace than this. But this is what it shows on hyundaitechinfo.com

Any advice? I will hopefully order the parts here soon. Anything else you recommend I replace? other than the water pump.

And is there a better way to check the tension on it? it basically says reapply tension pulley and add pressure.... sounds like it should be harder than that? or at least more technical.

thanks again for the help. just trying to figure everything out BEFORE I attempt this.
Nah, nah - look here: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/184-m...ms.com/184-mc-2006-2011-accent/129940-timing-drive-belt-diy-pdf-w-pictures.html

There is a pdf that accompanies this, and is linked in the thread - it's corrupted. It is essentially all the photos and step-by-step in the thread, all in a document. If you HAVE to have the pdf, PM me and I'll email it to you.
 
#18 ·
its not that the water pump failing isn't rare - it really doesn't happen often. it's the fact that you pretty much have to do the job again if it does fail. the timing belt must be removed again. i don't know about you, but i don't like doing a job twice - or paying for it twice for that matter.