I am not sure about the brake grease with the slider pin. This is just my opinion. I think any brake grease with do, and it doesn't require any special one. I mean as long as it's brake grease then I wouldn't worry.

I don't think it's a bad idea to change out the rear rotors. Did you measure the thickness of the rotor? Often time, you shouldn't need to change out the brake rotor since it's not taking as much beating as the front rotors. Is it making noise when you are going in reverse?

This is just my 2 cent, and I am not a professional.

 

No my brakes work pretty well for the most part. I think I have to push the pedal a little more than I used to but no noise or anything from them (There is a noise I've had for a while but mechanic told me two of my tires are slightly out of round which is what is causing the noise, I will deal with this when my tires are worn out). But ya braking doesn't seem to be too bad, but I haven't serviced the brakes since I bought the car which was at 80,000K and it's at 101,000 now. I just think I should at least service the pins and re lube everything, just to be sure. And I hear lots of people say to not use grease on caliper pins as it will affect the rubber and make it swell until it seizes the caliper, potentially destroying it, the pads and the rotor. It needs to be a silicone synthetic compound that is weather resistant and high heat resitant.

 

I have two 2009 Sonatas , both had a rear caliper siezed up. I think I found the problem, the seals in the caliper expand too much after time causing the piston to get stuck in the caliper.
Get a new seal kit and replace all the seals.
Since I have done that, all the brake calipers have no more problems.

 

I had to replace one of the rear calipers (driver side) recently because of the seizing issue. The other one is ok as far as I know. Could you please post a link to a seal kit comparable to the one you used? Like you, I have a '09 Sonata. I'm at 75K miles.

 

Hi there.

I do a brake service every oil change due to living in the rust belt. I use brake grease, but it is also known as silicone dielectric grease. The issue with any petroleum-based grease is that it can cause any rubber components that it comes into contact with to swell. All of the brake grease that I have used is silicone based.

Thanks.

 

What I use. Had a can for about 10 years now, it was $5 when I got it. Use it on spark plug boots and caliper pins, works very well.

 

For brake slide pins use silicone paste grease and for the pads and shims use high temp permatex brake grease

 

This is what we use at shop.. wipe old lube off pin, and apply new lube, stick it in, and move it back-forth to distribute lube

 

Would this product not swell the boots?

 

Would this product not swell the boots? http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3N5GJZOVPPISN

Use a lube designed for brake components like the one shown in sbr711's post.

 

We use this in my shop Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.: Automotive

I'd also suggest you always replace your rotors anytime you replace your pads.

 

We use this in my shop Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.: Automotive

I'd also suggest you always replace your rotors anytime you replace your pads.

Why replace the rotors with pads? I've gone through 3 sets of pads on rotors with no problems. I do always use OE pads to avoid any problems.

 

Okay I shouldn't say that as a blanket statement but:

Your old rotors could be warped, have grooves in the surface (even very fine grooves will wear into pads and possibly cause noise), they could have hot spots in them, they could be glazed.

Basically, brake pads are much harder on rotors than they used to be, so the rotors take a beating. Old parts transfer their defects to new parts. That's why you want to replace them when you put on new pads.

If you do a good visual inspection of your rotors and had no braking issues before aside from worn pads, you can probably get by with an OK brake job.

 

I went to the dealer and order the rear brake caliper service kit. It come with the inner caliper seals and piston dust covers and I think with the sliderpin dust cover seals too. Just go to dealer and ask them. To install the piston dust cover is a bit tricky but can be done.
I will try and find the old paper work for part numbers if you will.

 

I use copper antiseize on my slider pins. No problems with seizing or swelling. Rotors should be replaced when they are worn thin. They seldom warp, that is more than likely pad deposits from cheap brake pads.

 

Normally pad and Rotor life depends on the driving habit and friction material quality, added to that sluggish return of.pads due to pin grease and rough finish or rust on the pad sliding area.

 

The biggest problem with rotors these days is DTV where the thickness varies and it's an absolute minuscule amount that causes the brake pedal to start bouncing. My lovely wife seems to be able to achieve it every 20,000kms so she keeps me on my toes replacing and machining the front rotors.

 

I also use copper antiseize on slider pins and no problem

 

This is the only lube we use on brake caliper pins. The rest of the brake components are dry and clean with no lube, just as the brake components came from the factory.

Amazon.com: Dielectric Grease/Silicone Paste/Waterproof Marine Grease (8 Oz.) Made in USA- Excellent Silicone Grease: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Dielectric Grease/Silicone Paste/Waterproof Marine Grease (8 Oz.) Made in USA- Excellent Silicone Grease: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

 

I can't help but thinking that if you are using so much brake lubricant that it is getting on the rubber of the piston then that is Waaay too much.

I was taught and also observed on several Mechanics You tube videos to lube the channel where the pads slide and maybe just a small dab on the top of piston. But on the second part i am always worried about putting on too much. That is same stuff i use on Caliper slider pins as well.