I think the GT will stop on dime if you need to :smile:

 

I wished my coupe did but the braking just sucks. I rather do engine braking using the shiftronic lol

 

My Elantra 2001 had long braking distance
So, I replaced the pads and rotors (combo kit) from Rockauto.com
It improved but I didn't go for the performance stuff .. just everyday driver

Edit: Oh living in the salt belt, it made it so much "fun" taking off the rotors
You can not believe how rust can jam everything up

 

I noticed my rear passenger rotor is rusting...wth. well maybe it'd time to change rotors and brake pads

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I replaced my rear pads and rotors, which had surface pitting, in my '13 GLS at around 40K miles at a tire shop. Of course the car stops much better now, but that's to be expected when replacing worn brakes with new.

 

Just never replace the pads with racing brake pads.

 

Centric rotors and pads. Probably the best OE replacement stuff.


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Agree with SpeedRacerXT's comment. i have EBC yellow pads in my little racer and the first couple of applications are just to heat them up not stop.In reality it's very hard to beat the OE pads for general performance and life but saying that there are many cheaper aftermarket pads that will do the job. Ceramic do give a better feel. Rotors are much of a muchness. They don't have any different effect in braking but some may suffer warpage (DTV) problems due to design.

 

Yep, that's the thing with the 'pseudo-turner' street folks who put on racing pads then wonder why when they are headed out of the driveway the car isn't stopping. Race pads are designed to run real hot (designed to not fade under racing hot brake conditions), something that doesn't normally happen in day to day commutes unless you're driving down the side of a mountain and riding the brakes the whole way.

Same with drilled and/or slotted rotors. If they are made well they will wear about the same as stock rotors (if they are crappily made then YMMV). Still they are just for looks, they aren't really going to operate much different than the stock ones. I had some slotted aftermarket rotors on a V6 Passat that I had and it seemed to help a little in wet weather braking...or it may have been more my imagination - still decent EBC street pads and the slotted rotors were a nice combo over the stock ones although the EBC pads and stock rotors would have been just as good.

 

I plan to go with this kit soon.
Front Rear Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads Fits 2011 2014 Elantra | eBay
It was sold by best seller rating on ebay.
With $170, I think it is good deal for front and rear.

 

Drilled rotors look nice but under race conditions they crack. The holes are weak point where the cracks start. I would never use them. Slotted on the other hand are perfect.

 

Just for daily commute I think It would be fine. I don't plan to go racing w my E ....
I just wonder how long it would last compare to Oem...

 

Probably just as long. Under normal street driving they would only suffer the normal wear of cast iron and not the cracking. Gets down to the pads to determine the rotor wear rate. I find most Euro cars have what I consider extreme rotor wear but that's the way the manufacturer has designed it.

 

Found this thread from the corvetteforums about the brakemotive combo. Very positive reviews.

Review for brakemotive drilled and slotted rotors? - Corvette Forum

 

I just ordered the Powerstop full kit from rockauto with the KYB rear shocks will give an update when i get them installed

 

Nice. I got one set of KYB too.
How much for the Power Stop kit? Is it around $250?

 

I was facing this brake/rotor R&R in the next year, or so, on my 2013. It's priced anywhere from "Seriously" to "How Much?" And all in-between. I found a way around it. Bought new 2017 Elantra Limited rotors, calipers, pads, etc. They threw in the car for free. :grin2:

 

Congratz on the new car Saw you been rocking on a 2011 or 2012 Elantra up till now

 

Thanh, I can already assure you the KYB's will make a difference. I was one of the original 2011 owners that took a leap of faith and bought a set after several posters reported back on their findings.

They work! Plain and simple! They work magnificently.

 

Good thing to hear that Okierich.
I'm exciting to upgrade my E to new level of driving confident.
I just updated to Michellin Defender recently. It is definitely a good tire with well balanced handling.
Now, I'm waiting for the Drill Slot Brake for front and rear then KYB.
My car needs to be in body shop for 2 weeks with bumper repaired...
I will report the result after that.

 

I will report the result after that.

Report for everyone else. I already know. But you may fool me and come up with a superlative for those KYB's that I've never heard before!

 

I probably going to change my rotors for slotted ones and ceramic pads. Went to the dealer to have them check on my brake issues since it was fading at minimal breaking on the streets and freeway. Dealer said there's nothing wrong with the brakes or the pads but they did notice the brake fade. Gonna try to convince them to try and work a warranty fix first before I pull the trigger on the rotors and pads.

 

I just got a set of rotor and pad from brakemotive...seems solid inside out....and the pad is Z17 for front and rear from Powerstop..
I got all for ~$152...
Will put on soon...

 

Last week I replaced front pads and rotors with NAPA parts. That's my aftermarket kit.

My pads & rotors were 3 years old but only 15K miles on them and the pads were in extremely poor condition. They had about 1mm on them and were so rusted into the caliper I had to pry them out in pieces. Only 15K on factory pads? Unbelievable.


Some years back on a Mazda I used StopTech Street Performance pads and Centric Premium rotors and had extremely dangerous results in the winter. On the highway there would be no braking power when pressing the pedal for at least 3-4 seconds until ...... something ....... happened. Either the pads warmed up on the rotors or I don't know what. Changed out the pads to OEM pads and the problem went away. Still have the Centric rotors on until this day.

So I'd just put the thought out there that your choice of pads should factor in your climate and driving conditions. Do your research on the types of pad material in different climates. Ceramic pads that you're all talking about have consistent poor reviews in wet/snowy climates.

You may never experience a problem with them but if you did....

 

Its either I got with a big brake kit or get new rotors and pads from R1 Concept. Found a good deal to buy a 4piston big brake kit from Neotech with Mando calipers.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has changed their brake pads or rotors with aftermarket ones?

The Elantra seems to be lacking braking power and I was wondering if anyone has changed theirs and seen improvements?? I seen some ceramic pads on ebay and amazon for pretty good deals. Also seen new brake rotors for pretty good price.

2014 Hyundai Elantra Performance Brakes | Pads, Rotors, Calipers

Hyundai Elantra Performance Brake Kits by EBC, Brembo, Hawk, Stoptech & PowerStop

I got the drilled and slotted, and less than a year they warped.

 

Realize the thread was started 5+ years ago, but just for the record, rReady for flak, but rotors don't warp.

 

They can. They did. Too bad cuz they are nice looking rotors too. Never rust

 

They can't, it's pad build up on the rotor surface that causes the pads to move in/out causing the pulsation.
I've mentioned this before, I've had pulsation and installed metallic (hard) pads and pulsation gone in a day. Have done it many times.
Also, if you cut the rotor, you'll find that the inner surface of the rotor is smooth, as is the outer part, but when the cutter hits the pad surface
is where you'll find the difference in thickness because of pad deposits.