On a rack , up in air, and out the bottom.. 1.5hr round trip if you know where you going with alternator replacement.

Of course we lower front of subframe, undo roll mounts to allow frame to come down, and I think it is unbolt the compressor to move it out of way enough to allow alternator to pass over top when coming down and out.

 

@santa
Are you the original owner? If so, what is your current mileage?

 

I prefer removing upper coolant hose, fans. don't even need the car off the ground.


the fans don't just slide out. a bit tricky to get out.

 

Original owner 105,000 miles. What is tricky about removing the fans? Any tips on removing the fans? Any other obstacles I might encounter? Also should I replace the serpentine belt while I'm at it?

 

Belt already off, likely over 60,000 on the belt,, gots to put a belt of some sort back on upon re-assembly,, drop the $30 at local Hyundai or Kia for the 25212-3C100 belt and just put new belt on and run with it.

 

The alternator is covered in black sewt. My options are an AC/Delco for 200 from rock auto or a Duralast for 120.00??

Im leaning towards the AC/Delco?

In terms of lowering the subframe on this vehicle does anyone have any instructions?? Im assuming without being under the car at this time. I will have two/3 bolts that need removal (obviously supporting the engine with a jack before removal and having the vehicle itself on jackstands). Am I simply lowerering the passenger side subframe to remove the alternator??
Or I am removing the alternator from the area in the front closest to the radiator/roll mounts?


Also maybe is just me but the Hyundai Tech Info service site is a joke? Is there a repair manual available for the Santa Fe from Haynes or from the dealer on CD or something?

 

Is there a repair manual available for the Santa Fe from Haynes or from the dealer on CD or something?

There are some sellers on eBay with on-line repair manuals for do-it-yourselfer's.. Not sure if your make/model is available. But it sure would be one of the first places I would go to look.

Auto parts stores (AutoZone, I seem to recall) had an info display of on-line manuals in CD format, once upon a time. You could search your particular area of concern, find the diagnosis/problem, and print off any pages that you'd need to repair the vehicle. No more books with smudged pages from dirty hands. The keyboard might not be so lucky if you're making request trips back and forth from the garage to the PC to retrieve additional info. "Most" auto stores also carry an assortment of Haynes manuals, etc.

Locating the manual is the least part of the equation compared to actually fixing the repair. But the manual does make it easier.

 

Would you consider posting a step-by-step write up after succesful completion of this job?

Good luck and I hope it goes as smoothly as possible!

 

I will be happy to post my experience after completion. Just feel free to provide any input you may have before tackling the project? I have access to a rack but I will complete the work in the driveway since 90% of the population does not have access to a lift.

"Experience is a hard teacher because it gives the test first and the lesson afterwards"

 

I will be happy to post my experience after completion. Just feel free to provide any input you may have before tackling the project? I have access to a rack but I will complete the work in the driveway since 90% of the population does not have access to a lift.

I just noticed you're in the next town over from me. When are you going to tackle this? If I am around maybe I can lend a hand if you'd like?

I agree - a write-up from a jackstand perspective would be nice - but if you have access to a lift that is the way to go!

 

Use the rack if you have ability too,, it toooooo cold to be working outside around here.

Easier to work standing up with work at eye/arm level

 

Probably start late Friday finish up on Saturday. Ill keep you in mind if something goes arye. I went with the AC/Delco part from Rock Auto ($200) Autozone has one for 100.00 but didnt want to take the chance. (Not a fan of doing things twice) I also picked up the Hyundai OEM valve cover gasket, serpentine belt, and grey sealant.

 

The usual suspects (Chilton, Haynes, Clymer, etc.) haven't ever printed manuals for this (the CM series) vehicle... that all seemed to stop after the SM series (2001~2006). Perhaps it's because so much of the information is available for free on Hyundai's site, or perhaps there's some other reason. Whatever, there's not a lot of point looking elsewhere. Most of the eBay sellers are just putting together printed versions of what's already available on the net.

 

Piece of cake job,,, "Gravy ticket" if you done a few...

Hyundai says step 1 is to remove battery cable, remove alternator and replace in reverse order..

Support body so frame up in air.. go through passenger wheel well.

Remove bolts from bottom of both roll mount to frame

Remove both front corner frame bolts (loosen the rear corners a good bit first) and lower frame down to open the gap

Remove drive belt, and tensioner assembly

Remove idler pulley that has the black cone hat on it beside alternator

Unbolt A/C compressor and let it hang

Remove alternator bolts (remove plug and cable from rear first), and remove alternator down and out wheel well opening.. need assistant to hang on frame so you can come out with alternator..

Install in reverse order

Valve cover is straight forward, remove stuff in the way. Santa Fe is best to dump coolant and pull hose off radiator and hook behind battery to keep out of way..

RTV blob across the 2 seams where front timing cover meets cylinder head (refer to TSB posted somewhere here)

Tighten bolts to 80 in-lb... I use a "click" type torque wrench.

There is Youtube in time lapse showing Santa Fe cover I think.

I found it --

 

Still - more than enough to cause one to curse the invention of the transverse engine. Fifty pounds of *&^% in a one pound bag, with a hope and a promise that nothing ever breaks that needs to be replaced. Sure was a lot less painful in the 'old days'.

Loosen alternator (or on some models with separate tensioners, for some of us, just apply muscle and lift the serp belt off the alternator pulley).
Remove wire and connector.
Remove bolts.
Remove alternator.

Reverse, using broom handle to lever against the alternator to get the belt tight, if the design required.

 

NIPENDENSO/VALEO

Well I removed the alternator I will provide instructions later. (piece of cake NOT REALLY)

However the part I ordered from Rock Auto is apparently Nippendenso and mine is Valeo. (2 Pin Connector VS 3) Hopefully tomorrow I can find a Valeo at Napa cause Pep Boys, Autzone, and Advanced only carry Nippendenso.

Considering my alternator has not failed just covered in oil and grease from the leaking valve cover gasket? It is possible to rebuild/repair/clean the alternator I just removed and just put the original back in?

Any advice is greatly appreciated?

I would rather replace it but Hyundai wants 350 for the alternator and this is my wife's car and used to tow a boat in the summer so would rather not take the chance on it failing. I would say its the gasket has been leaking for 6 months.

 

You should find one large Red wire, (the output), and the other two will be a small Green and small White wire on pins 2 and 3 of a 3 pin connector (pin 1 is empty), though with all of the black sheath around it all, it may be hard to tell just what they are.

If I'm reading you right, Rock Auto sent you one with a 2 pin connector instead? The Rock Auto part should have crossed to a Denso P/N 210-0712. Does the box show the actual ND number on it as 210-0712?

 

ACDELCO Part # 3342710 {#88864931} Remanufactured
GENERATOR Nippondenso-IF; 130 AMP is what I purchased? Are you stating that I can use this part since number 1 pin is not in use??

Yes that part number number you provided is a "DENSO" part number that cross references to the AC Delco part on Rockauto.

 

? You tell me! I'm really confused now. I thought in post #18 you were saying that Rock Auto shipped you a Denso reman unit after you thought you had ordered something else. What brand and part number did you actually find in the box?

Anyway, should be fitting a 3 position connector to a 3 position connector, but pin 1 will be blank on the harness side. There are only the two smaller wires on the harness. It's 'keyed' so that it can't be flipped around.

 

You should be able to get your alternator rebuilt at a local shop that does that sort of thing. Often they are able to rebuild with better components then what came with stock, too.

Might be worth calling around, if you have the luxury of extra "down time" with the vehicle...

 

All done!

Ok so if you log on to rock auto website and got to 2008 3.3 Engine Alternator they do not carry VALEO style alternators. ONLY denso/nippendenso. OEM for my car is Valeo no one carries Valeo style in the aftermarket workplace except NAPA (5 days to get in.)


You explained to me that pin 1 is blank. Denso/Nippendenso alternators have only 2 pins on the alternator side but since pin 1 is blank Im assuming it will work. I just finished the installation ran the engine then disconnected the battery for ten minutes and the vehicle did not shut off so i should be OK??

Sorry for the confusion and I appreciate you taking the time outta of you Saturday to provide assistance.

Nippendenso/Denso alternators 2 pin male on the alternator
OEM/Valeo alternators are 3 pin male on the alternator

Hyundai Harness is 3 female but since slot 1 is blank logically it wouldn't matter but heck I honestly don't have a clue. But the car doesn't shut off when the battery is disconnected?


THOUGHTS??

P.S. I WILL POST DIY INSTRUCTIONS ASAP...

OPTIONS FROM ROCK AUTO I PURCHASED AC DELCO

URE ENERGY Part # 15599 Reman
130 Amps
Part Image
$39.89 $55.00 $94.89

TYC Part # 211191 {#373303C120}
6S; w/ OE Manufacturer Denso; Amps: 130A
Part Image
$113.79 $0.00 $113.79

DENSO Part # 2100712 Reman (Only 1 Remaining)
$166.79 $34.00 $200.79

REMY Part # 12727 Premium Remanufactured
130 Amps
Part Image
$133.99 $80.00 $213.99

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1861256 {#1861263} Remanufactured
AMP 130; PULLEY 6S; MFR PS; VOLT 12; ROT CW; CLK 10:00; Internal Regulator
Part Image
$149.79 $75.00 $224.79

ACDELCO Part # 3342710 {#88864931} Remanufactured
GENERATOR Nippondenso-IF; 130 AMP
Part Image

 

No problem. Sounds as though you're in business. If you disconnected and the vehicle ran for 10 seconds without any peculiar dash lights, I'd say that was enough to prove you've got it right!

The Denso unit is remanufactured, and while a good enough replacement, was not necessarily a rebuild of the OEM brand alternator. No biggie there.

 

Ugh!!!!!!!!



Oh well I new it was gamble. PLEASE NOTE YOU NEED TO PURCHASE YOUR REPLACEMENT ALTERNATOR FROM THE DEALER BASED ON YOUR VIN.

NON-OEM ALTERNATORS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIS VEHICLE

AFTER ABOUT 15 MINUTE DRIVE SHE GOT PISSED AND FLASHED ALL TYPES OF
INDICATOR LIGHTS ON THE CLUSTER AND HEADLIGHTS STARTED DIMMING.

OH WELL GUESS I'LL BE DOING THE JOB TWICE AND DISHING OUT 350.00 FOR A HYUNDAI ALTERNATOR. NAPA CARRYS A VALEO BRAND BUT IM NOT TAKING THE CHANCE.

LET THE SAGA CONTINUE…ITS ALL GOOD SOMEONE HOPEFULLY WONT MAKE THIS MISTAKE!!!

LIIFE IS A HARD TEACHER FIRST SHE GIVES YOU THE TEST THEN YOU LEARN YOUR LESSON!!!

 

OK what makes one alternator different from another ? If you bought one that was made for a Hyundai, how come it doesnt work? If its true how do the keep selling them? Doesnt the thing just spin and create current to charge the battery, especially if you have only two leads to connect, how can it not work? I need Canderson or SBR to explain. If you can only but OEM how would the other mfg's survive?

 

@steveH

'OK what makes one alternator different from another ?

The right answer should be 'nothing', but in reality, the specifics of the 'peripheral' wiring can be different between alternators.

That said, I know of no differences between any alternator on the '08 3.3L and any other. They are all the same in terms of pin-out and function and the VIN number shouldn't be relevant at all.

ONLY the '08 2.7L had an alternate (sorry, bad pun) alternator. It used either the same as all of the 3.3L that year or an alternative, but ONLY the 2.7L should require a VIN to sort that out (actually, it's obvious by looking at them for the 2.7).

I'm wondering if what santa22 just had was a failure of the remanufactured Denso alternator, and nothing more sinister than that.

@santa22
I hope it wasn't a dealer that told you this.

 

not a good note for buying a remanufactured Denso alternator, I wonder if he will have problems returning it on such sort usage.

 

No, he should not. It does come with a one year warranty.

 

My neighbor just took a recent "chain shop" installed Bosch off an Azera Thurs I think it was. I almost had an alternator for scrap till customer showed up wanting the old part.

Had an Elantra that needed alternator, we did not have it, so to make sale and get car done (not my doing, I knew where it was going to go).. they called the parts store that parts dept work with,, I put alternator, charge voltage was ok, not super.. car came back with MIL, 2 blown head lights, SRS light.. try to make it my fault/come back because car was worse than we started..

Codes for high voltage (over 15 volt detect),, head lights popped from high voltage.. what happen,, they couldnt warranty as Hyundai part, had to install 2nd part store alternator.. 2nd alternator had better-steady charge voltage..

There's a reason for the "lifetime" warranty.. you'll spend rest of your lifetime of ownership wondering when you going to replace the parts store part agian, and doing it again.. went through that with ex wife Ford Tempo alternator,, put couple in a matter of a month,, ended up going to Ford and get alternator from Ford.