Hi
First I just want to let you know that behind the poor quality of my english, there is someone who is doing alignment all day...
I have an 2013 Elantra with less than 2500km on it and it has already got is first alignmen...

Now for you car...
The 2010 and 2011-2013 elantra aren't the same, the 2010 has an independant rear suspension while the 2011-2013 has a solid axle
The 2010 can be adjuste with stock component
The 2011 need "shim"

The guy who did an alignment on you car didn't event bother to "mesure" the caster angle
The caster will make the car goes to one side of the road if not good
Your front camber is good
Front toe is good too

For the rear...
The camber and toe are WRONG...
This car will bounce from left to right when hitting hole

Your rear camber is Left -1.79 Right -1.42
Spec are -1.5 +-.5 this mean it should be between -1 and -2 and the closest to -1 to prevent tire wear
You rear toe is Left 0.40 Right 0.40
Spec are 0.50 +-.30 wich mean between 0.20 and 0.80 and should be as close as 0 ( 0 been the perfect line)

Also they use 2010 spec wich are 3 years OLD!!!!
They probably didn't reset your steering angle!!

 

Hi
First I just want to let you know that behind the poor quality of my english, there is someone who is doing alignment all day...
I have an 2013 Elantra with less than 2500km on it and it has already got is first alignmen...

Now for you car...
The 2010 and 2011-2013 elantra aren't the same, the 2010 has an independant rear suspension while the 2011-2013 has a solid axle
The 2010 can be adjuste with stock component
The 2011 need "shim"

The guy who did an alignment on you car didn't event bother to "mesure" the caster angle
The caster will make the car goes to one side of the road if not good
Your front camber is good
Front toe is good too

For the rear...
The camber and toe are WRONG...
This car will bounce from left to right when hitting hole

Your rear camber is Left -1.79 Right -1.42
Spec are -1.5 +-.5 this mean it should be between -1 and -2 and the closest to -1 to prevent tire wear
You rear toe is Left 0.40 Right 0.40
Spec are 0.50 +-.30 wich mean between 0.20 and 0.80 and should be as close as 0 ( 0 been the perfect line)

Also they use 2010 spec wich are 3 years OLD!!!!
They probably didn't reset your steering angle!!

Everything you said is 100% correct. Thanks so much for your clarification. They didn't reset my steering angle, the car still pulls to the right, and I do experience the rear end hop. The service manager is going to be getting a nice call today. Wish I could have took it to your shop. Thanks for all the help!

 

Felllap is right. The front toe and camber is fine. He is also right that it is crap that they did not measure caster. Though from a factory approved approach, there is no real way to adjust camber or caster... significantly. Its mostly just toe n go.

Which sux because I think we could use an xtra degree of caster.

For the rear... let me ask yall reading. Has anybody had old man Hyundai replace the rear axle assembly due to it being out of spec?

I would imagine no... but again Felllap is right you could shim. You may need a non Hyundai shop to do that though as I dont think the old man approves.

 

There really is no adjustment for the rear alignment as the suspension uses a solid axle. Manufacturing tolerances will result is some alignments being very good, some being OK, and some being crappy. You and I picked the short straw - crappy. The toe in is poor and will result in excessive wear on the rear tires especially the outside edge. Hyundai has made the specs for the rear wheels on the MD really sloppy to cover all contingencies. In theory they could be shimmed but as I look at the so-called on-line shop manual it would appear that the calipers might be mounted to a different surface than the axle stubs so shimming might be problematic.