From the factory manual

 

Thanks for this I really appreciate it.

 

Here are the specs for the CM:

Front Rear
Camber -0.5° ± 0.5° -1° ± 0.5°
Caster 4.5° ± 0.5°
Toe-In (Total) 0° ± 0.2° 0.2° ± 0.2°
Toe-In (Indiv) 0° ± 0.1° 0.1° ± 0.1°

On mine the front is set to zero toe exactly. Rear is very slight toe in. All confirmed by my own alignment tools.

 

Zero it. You DIY the suspension job ? I believe need to jack car under spindle when tightening front CA bolt - careful not to get under the car when it's jacked like this.

 

I did replace all the components that have been changed. Although it hasn’t been completely over hauled only what I found clearly needing replacement. Front outer tie rods front end lower controls arms. The struts on the front and the coil springs and shock absorbers on the rear. Also the coil springs are sandwiched between two , what was accurately desribed as “insulator caps”. The bottom cap on both sides of the rear was flat as flat gets so I changed them also. I wanted to say thanks alot for giving me your time and your knowledge to help me out. I truly appreciate it.

 

Depends on what you prefer or driving style.

For high speed hiway driving with steady steering wheel feel, go towards toe-in limit of oem range.

For ease of steering wheel turning effort at low speed (say, below 40 km/hr) nearby residential or heavily congested commercial streets with tight turning radius, go for toe-out limit.

If one isn't sure of what he likes/prefers, start with zero (degree, minute or mm) front toes.

Edit: In real life it doesn't matter whether the vehicle is front/rear wheel drive or awd/4wd - as that relates to dynamic changes behaviour of cambers/toes during a drive.

 

i agree with most of what you said except for the edit

On FWD, the wheels are going to be pulling the a-arms towards toe in (ie against the bushings) so a lot of FWD vehicles get a slight toe out setting to compensate, and you end up with zero or slight toe in.

The same goes for the rear axle if you have AWD, but only for the first 20 mph or thereabouts of acceleration when the Santa Fe shunts torque to the rear.

IMHO, there are serious problems with how vehicles are now aligned. They are statically aligned, and not dynamically aligned with the wheels experiencing thrust and reflecting wear items such as bushings. If i had it my way i would be measuring alignment angles on a dyno with the drum providing the same amount of resistance the vehicle would be seeing at about 60 mph.

Depends on what you prefer or driving style.

For high speed hiway driving with steady steering wheel feel, go towards toe-in limit of oem range.

For ease of steering wheel turning effort at low speed (say, below 40 km/hr) nearby residential or heavily congested commercial streets with tight turning radius, go for toe-out limit.

If one isn't sure of what he likes/prefers, start with zero (degree, minute or mm) front toes.

Edit: In real life it doesn't matter whether the vehicle is front/rear wheel drive or awd/4wd - as that relates to dynamic changes behaviour of cambers/toes during a drive.

 

Thanks alot for the support. I just purchased a small level from Amazon that is supposed to read in degrees I believe. I should be measuring from directly off of the rotor from what I’ve looked up on the Internet. It’s supposed to be for measuring camber and toe. I haven’t ever used this tool specifically but I hadn’t replaced struts , shocks, springs, tie rods, control arms , ball joints , or any thing else on a vehicles suspension before getting this Santa Fe. I never realized just how many parts make up the comfortable ride when it’s comfortable. That being said it’s been very satisfying to replace all the parts it needed myself and I’ve learned a great deal. All the feedback on this forum has been extremely useful as well. Again thank you for your time and for sharing your knowledge with me.

 

if you are adjusting the camber, and the digital angle gauge is good to 0.1 degrees then you can just measure the existing value and if you are replacing a strut, just set it back to that same value (assuming the Santa Fe is up on jacks and does not move). That will be good enough to get you back to the alignment shop.

You cannot use those gauges to set the camber properly though (ie like the alignment shop does) unless you get the car up on an exactly level flat surface. One way to do this is to get linoleum tiles and a self leveling laser level. Most garages, driveways are not level enough, due to drainage angles, so you have to add tiles until things are exactly flat. Front to back angle isn't so critical, but obviously side to side flatness/levelness is. Using a laser level you can get things adjusted flat such that there is zero angle between the wheels. Then you can use the digital angle gauge to set the camber.

Toe requires a lot more precision than camber, and you really need to adjust it against the actual vehicle centerline. Also a lot of vehicles are not exactly symmetrical so you need to compensate for that. And of course the wheels themselves will not rotate without some small degree of wobble/runout. So you need to first do runout compensation to take out the effect of the wheel itself so that you are aligning the axles/hubs.

Oh well i went through all this stuff when i was making my own tools to set the alignment properly.