I've never removed the compressor, so I can't say if you are referring to the same thing.

when doing the starter, if you are referring to that large metal plate that when removed makes it a whole lot easier to then remove/reinstall the starter, why not just remove it? that is of course if you are talking about what I think you are. wouldn't call it a sub frame though, I think it's called the intake manifold stay.

 

I've never removed the compressor, so I can't say if you are referring to the same thing.

when doing the starter, if you are referring to that large metal plate that when removed makes it a whole lot easier to then remove/reinstall the starter, why not just remove it? that is of course if you are talking about what I think you are. wouldn't call it a sub frame though, I think it's called the intake manifold stay.

Im not sure what it is but on the videos if seen and the discussions on this forum no one else mentions dealing with it or shows it. Its not just the skid plate type protection that is easily removable it seems more substantial then that. It looks like it goes form frame rail to frame rail. Ill have to take a closer look when i get the skids off.
thanks for reply

 

take a picture if you can.

 

 

When i take all the protection off on the underside as in video i have a big cross member of some sort blocking the front/side of engine compartment. Its not wide open as in video you attached.
Thank You

 

I have a 2012 2.0T and there is nothing in the way of the control valve except the rubber hose that can be moved forward with a bungee cord, I've replaced mine twice.

 

Dont have pic, but will take when i get skid/protection off. Never posted a pic here yet either.
In the video above it sits right below the rubber hose. You cant even see the valve because of it.
I can reach the valve from above but having trouble disconnecting wiring and will then have trouble finding the o-ring holes.

 

Are you sure your car is a 2011

 

Looks like something made in Korea...with welded link to tie it down on the ship.

 

Yes on it being a 2011.
Not sure if mine has the welded loop like in the pic.

 

Mine was made here (U.S.) in January of 2010.

 

Just found this video on a 2007 and you can see just below the oil filter there is some sort of crossmember.
I'm guessing i have an early 2011 where they used some bits from the previous model. Hopefully when i get the bottom protection off I can get enough room to try just replacing the valve, If that doesn't work looks like I may have to pull radiator and fan and come in from the top. Don't have to worry about evacuating the system as a deer hoof recently did that for me.

 

I need my AC compressor replaced as well. You saved me loads of time knowing the subframe is in the way. Let me know if you get it. Ill try checking back in later.

 

How much earlier did production start before mine. January of 2010 seems early to me!

 

What's the VIN?

 

Nox32, Check yours first, most others seem not to have this and there is nothing in the way. Without it it seems like a fairly straightforward job. Most only have to take off the "skidplate" protection. Look at the video Turbonut posted, that is what most people seem to have.
Not sure of VIN, will check.

 

Did Hyundai continue to sell NF (previous gen) Sonatas into 2011?

 

MAD - Im guessing early 2011's used some leftover 2010 parts. Not sure. Looks like a 2011 from top, front underneath looks to be earlier model but have never looked in person.
Somebody might be able to conform but not me. Makes AC work and started harder though.

 

Know I asked before, what's the VIN, leave the last 4 digits off for security if you like

 

Add a little r134 that will help push it out.

 

medium1- is that a serious reply, have you done it

 

Yes, the first time I changed the control valve the gauges showed 0 charge. As I was removing the cap to replace the desiccant bag first, gas was coming out under pressure when it stopped I replaced the bag then tried to remove the control valve which was a little tough but easy to get to. The second time I changed the control valve I only replaced the valve and again the gauge said 0 but the thing flew out under pressure with no effort. I didn't add r134 but even after pulling a vacuum for a couple of minutes it still had some in the compressor.

 

How hard was it to push new valve in?

 

Lube the O ring with refrigerant oil and should go in easily, but I had one they sent me that was @ 1/8" too long so check the length to be
certain it's the correct length. The one I received was listed for the correct application. Also, make certain the 2 pins are perpendicular.
Had one that when received one of the pins was bent, didn't see it during installation, pushed the connection on, tried to charge no go,
so pulled the plug and checked the pins, one was bent down but so thin that it broke when trying to straighten it out, but they replaced the
valve, no problem, but caused quite a delay with added work/refrigerant.

 

I ended up breaking the end off the valve and had nothing to pull on and because i have the subframe in the way no access to get at it, also no access to refrigerant to try to pressurize.
Ended up buying new compressor and swapping the whole compressor. Since my 2011 has a subframe in the way I had to unbolt the compressor and wedge it up in the bay. I then had to remove a molded compressor mounting bracket to make room to drop compressor thru bottom. Without subframe it would have been much easier. Tried taking off oil filter but that didnt leave enough room, also tried pulling out from above but that looked like removing the fan at minimum to make enough room.
Hope this helps someone. Going to get charged at shop tomorrow so my fingers are crossed.