Is there any difference in the 2 that might hurt my car?
mentaluproar
There IS a difference. The difference is viscosity and what the engine was designed to use in various conditions. 5W 20 is lighter than 5W30 and depending on where and how you operate the engine, one may be more appropriate than the other. Most car engines today tend to use a multi-grade that actually lightens it's viscosity in cooler temps allowing your engine to get good starting lubrication in a wider outside temperature range.
Also, it's not recommended to mix oil types.
The Owners Manual (back page) has this to say for the 2001 Accent:
ENGINE OIL:
SH, SG or SG/CD multigrade and fuel efficient oil. Use SAE 10W-30, 10W-40 or 10W-50 if normal temperatures are above -10°F (-23°C). For other viscosity recommendations, see page 6-2.
On page 6-3 actually, you'll find a chart that will show you the recommendations for your driving environment.
Also, it's not recommended to mix oil types.
The Owners Manual (back page) has this to say for the 2001 Accent:
ENGINE OIL:
SH, SG or SG/CD multigrade and fuel efficient oil. Use SAE 10W-30, 10W-40 or 10W-50 if normal temperatures are above -10°F (-23°C). For other viscosity recommendations, see page 6-2.
On page 6-3 actually, you'll find a chart that will show you the recommendations for your driving environment.
QUOTE (mentaluproar @ May 23 2010, 08:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325650
5w 20 is a thinner oil than 5w 30. These two aren't very different from one another, but it's still good to go with the recommended oil that is in your manual. The type of oil to use also depends on where you live, whether you live some place with extreme hot weather all the time, or extreme cold, or in the middle.
5w 20 is a thinner oil than 5w 30. These two aren't very different from one another, but it's still good to go with the recommended oil that is in your manual. The type of oil to use also depends on where you live, whether you live some place with extreme hot weather all the time, or extreme cold, or in the middle.
QUOTE (02accentgrl @ Jun 13 2010, 09:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=332737
Correct :thumbsup: I use 5/20 in the winter (cold here) & 5/30 in the summer (hot here) :grin:
Read the manual people, 10w30 is the standard oil (very common), even the 5w30 is considered a "thin" oil only to be used when ambient is below 50F down to -13F or so on a regular basis for these cars. 5w20 is rated for 14F- -13F.
So there's no point in even considering 5w20, the oil is too thin and the potential for oil starvation (thin oil = low oil pressure = low circulation of oil through passages) is there once the engine has reached operating temperatures.
The only time I have ever used 5w20 is when the manual says so; this grade of thin oil is mainly used to satisfy fuel economy regs (thinner oil = less drag but again at the expense of lubrication), and unless the engine is designed to run on this oil I would be highly reluctant to run it, especially during the summertime.
So there's no point in even considering 5w20, the oil is too thin and the potential for oil starvation (thin oil = low oil pressure = low circulation of oil through passages) is there once the engine has reached operating temperatures.
The only time I have ever used 5w20 is when the manual says so; this grade of thin oil is mainly used to satisfy fuel economy regs (thinner oil = less drag but again at the expense of lubrication), and unless the engine is designed to run on this oil I would be highly reluctant to run it, especially during the summertime.
QUOTE (03accentb @ Jun 13 2010, 11:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=332764
a reason :whistling:
Mine calls for 5w20 year round. Could probably run 10w40 during the summer but they are recommending 5w20 for
a reason :whistling:
QUOTE (ausom accent 9 @ Jun 14 2010, 12:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=332774
I can post the 2 pages in the FSM about how to select the right grade of oil for 00-05 accents.
You have an 09, the engine is most likely different. Also who is doing the recommending? Just look in the owners manual, the temp ranges and oil weights are listed pretty clearly.
I can post the 2 pages in the FSM about how to select the right grade of oil for 00-05 accents.
I use 10W40 year-round. The OM uses 10W30 as the middle line( U.S. models). It depends what climate the vehicle is being operated. Look at the chart. You can also call your nearest dealer and ask them what is appropriate for your local.
Finally back. It's that time of year to change this stuff and the cold clatter from the engine is pissing me off, so time for fresh oil. I reread this and see that 5w20 is a no-no. I still see a back and forth between 5w30 and 10w30. I want to try a higher quality oil for this winter so it's down to just the grade. Ohio winters are quite cold, and the car is parked outside year round, so I'm not sure which makes sense.
Any response by this weekend would be helpful to finally answer this odd question. (I plan on changing the oil, cleaning out and waxing the car before it gets too cold to bother, looking for dead bulbs and checking fluid conditions while it's warm enough for me to willingly do this.) I bought the car used, so no manual.
Any response by this weekend would be helpful to finally answer this odd question. (I plan on changing the oil, cleaning out and waxing the car before it gets too cold to bother, looking for dead bulbs and checking fluid conditions while it's warm enough for me to willingly do this.) I bought the car used, so no manual.
Use the 5w-20 for sure. The majority of all engine wear occurs during start-up and when an engine is driven cold. Since most people drive in short trips, <30 minutes at a time, and don't realize it takes roughly 30+ minutes of driving to warm up their engine's oil. A thinner oil is recommended.
I've never seen a car come from the factory with an oil temperature gauge. Though one could be added to any car with a oil filter sandwich adapter giving you the ability to see for yourself how long it takes to warm the oil up. You should know there is No engine oil made that fully protects and engine during these times. But a 5w-20 will heat up faster, hence providing full protection sooner than a thicker oil. Thicker oil is also harder to pump through the oil circuit. At high rpms that increases the oil pressure in the system. All cars have a maximum oil pressure before the oil by-pass kicks in. Thicker oil can cause the by-pass to kick in at a much lower rpm than say a thinner oil. There for a thinner oil can decrease the stress on the oil pump and provide correct pressure at higher rpms. 5w-20 or 5w-30 is all I would consider.
Another factor to think about is the age and condition of the engine. An older engine with sludge build-up would benefit from a thinner oil as it would flow better through partially clogged oil ports in the engine head and block. In this situation a thicker oil could potentially hurt.
If say, an engine was factory clean but high mileage (100,000+), a slightly thicker oil might be a better choice. As wear has already taken place and provided more space between moving parts. E.g., bearings, piston rings, and the valve train. Notice I said "slightly thicker oil".
I'm in a similar, but different situation than you. I recently bought a 115,000 mile Accent GT manual. And being a technician, immediately performed and oil change along with replacing the engine air filter, fuel filter, cabin air filter, spark plugs and plug wires. I still have more to do. The difference being, I happen to live in a warmer climate than you do. So it changes things a little, but not much. On a side note, I highly recommend Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires for All vehicles! Also drain plug magnets and oil filter magnets are good insurance for less worn (newer) engines.
In the end, it's your vehicle. So you get to decide.
I've never seen a car come from the factory with an oil temperature gauge. Though one could be added to any car with a oil filter sandwich adapter giving you the ability to see for yourself how long it takes to warm the oil up. You should know there is No engine oil made that fully protects and engine during these times. But a 5w-20 will heat up faster, hence providing full protection sooner than a thicker oil. Thicker oil is also harder to pump through the oil circuit. At high rpms that increases the oil pressure in the system. All cars have a maximum oil pressure before the oil by-pass kicks in. Thicker oil can cause the by-pass to kick in at a much lower rpm than say a thinner oil. There for a thinner oil can decrease the stress on the oil pump and provide correct pressure at higher rpms. 5w-20 or 5w-30 is all I would consider.
Another factor to think about is the age and condition of the engine. An older engine with sludge build-up would benefit from a thinner oil as it would flow better through partially clogged oil ports in the engine head and block. In this situation a thicker oil could potentially hurt.
If say, an engine was factory clean but high mileage (100,000+), a slightly thicker oil might be a better choice. As wear has already taken place and provided more space between moving parts. E.g., bearings, piston rings, and the valve train. Notice I said "slightly thicker oil".
I'm in a similar, but different situation than you. I recently bought a 115,000 mile Accent GT manual. And being a technician, immediately performed and oil change along with replacing the engine air filter, fuel filter, cabin air filter, spark plugs and plug wires. I still have more to do. The difference being, I happen to live in a warmer climate than you do. So it changes things a little, but not much. On a side note, I highly recommend Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires for All vehicles! Also drain plug magnets and oil filter magnets are good insurance for less worn (newer) engines.
In the end, it's your vehicle. So you get to decide.
I forgot to directly answer your question. The difference between say a 5w-20 and a 10w-20 is that the 5w-20 thickens less after you turn your engine off. Remember all oil is too thick at cold start-up. But a 5w-20 is still not at thick as a 10w-20. These have the same viscosity. Thinner oil also runs cooler due to increased flow.
The difference between a 5w-20 (20 grade) and say a 5w-40 (40 grade) is not that much at operating temperatures. But during startup it's significant due to pressure and flow dynamics. These have different viscosity. Which is important during cold start-up.
Oh, also, generally speaking a fully synthetic oil is better than a conventional mineral based oil in cold climate applications. The start-up viscosity of the same grade oil is different. The synthetic uses less energy to crank the engine. At normal temperatures a conventional mineral based oil provides the same amount of protection a fully synthetic does. Fully synthetics typically lasts longer due to their additive package.
Whatever you choose, use a only an SL - SM, or soon to be widely available SN rated oil. And Never race your engine until the oil is warmed up!
The difference between a 5w-20 (20 grade) and say a 5w-40 (40 grade) is not that much at operating temperatures. But during startup it's significant due to pressure and flow dynamics. These have different viscosity. Which is important during cold start-up.
Oh, also, generally speaking a fully synthetic oil is better than a conventional mineral based oil in cold climate applications. The start-up viscosity of the same grade oil is different. The synthetic uses less energy to crank the engine. At normal temperatures a conventional mineral based oil provides the same amount of protection a fully synthetic does. Fully synthetics typically lasts longer due to their additive package.
Whatever you choose, use a only an SL - SM, or soon to be widely available SN rated oil. And Never race your engine until the oil is warmed up!
QUOTE (MBtech79 @ Oct 18 2010, 07:49 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=364348
A 5W-20 vs 5W-40 would have thicker qualitys at start up...if you never use the 5W side. Do you know what the "W" stands for?
Where did you get this info?
A 5W-20 vs 5W-40 would have thicker qualitys at start up...if you never use the 5W side. Do you know what the "W" stands for?
I'm not sure if links are allowed on this forum. If they are let me know and I'll post the link to where I learned this information from. If they aren't, anyone can pm me for the link. It's the best article I've Ever read on oil!
To answer your second question. Many people think the "W" in 10w-30 means "Winter".
From SAE J300 p.2:
"Two series of viscosity grades are defined in Table (1): (a) those containing the letter W and (b ) those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100C. Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150C. The shear rate will depend on the test method. Multi-grade grade oils are defined by both of these criteria....
The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.
To answer your second question. Many people think the "W" in 10w-30 means "Winter".
From SAE J300 p.2:
"Two series of viscosity grades are defined in Table (1): (a) those containing the letter W and (b ) those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100C. Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150C. The shear rate will depend on the test method. Multi-grade grade oils are defined by both of these criteria....
The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.
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