One more nice video:

The only mistake is to drill new car. We can find better place to connect the ground wire. I have ordered Curt T-connector for my Tucson and waiting for it to arrive. Unfortunately, shipping was so expensive for trailer hitch, so I must buy it in local store It will be AutoHak, not Curt

 

Amazon prime has free shipping for the curt hitch for Prime members. Good price too at $120.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012T85G2W/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_48?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

What's the difference between class 2 and class 3 ?

 

Relative to the performance of the tucson, nothing much other than the size of the hitch opening, 1.25" vs 2". If you already have accessories for 1.25" like bike racks, then a 1.25" is worth considering. However, if you don't own any accessories yet, then I'd get the 2" class III hitch because it's bigger, more stable with racks, and can hold more tongue weight.

 

Could you please post the URL, as for some odd reason my system is blocking the post for you tube - or PM me the link. Thanks

 

I ordered my class 3 today... looks like a 10min install from the youtube video

 

LOL.....:laugh:

 

Make sure you also order an Exhaust hanger removal tool, and grease up those hangers before taking them off. Everyone seems to get held up at that step.

 

easy as cake, piece of pie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLQjQzob0kQ

I wish we had the US square socket system here in the UK - it is SO much more sensible.

We have to have either a permanent ball (so you dong people's bumpers when parking) or a bespoke removable hitch that are all propriety.

And load/bike carriers are just natural on a socket - friction clamps on a ball with torsional loads is a crazy idea.

 

I just received Curt T-connector for my Tucson. But they wrote in instructions that module must be positioned in vehicle's interior. The easiest way is to attach module somewhere in the bumper. What do you think, is that good place ? It may be complicated to place module in interior.

 

Read my post on last page, second one down.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/2016-tucson-ix35-models/441321-curt-13240-class-3-2inch-hitch-installed-5.html

 

I just looked up images of towbar bike racks in the UK, that's just crazy!!! I wouldn't feel comforatble putting my $5000 mountain bike on that. The racks also look bulky when not in use, whereas here the rack fold up and avid cyclists leave them on their car most of the year.

I think the issue is that the UK has alot more cars with low ground clearance. The trend here in the united states for decades was larger SUV's and trucks. A reciever made alot more sense, and is nice because you can put hitched, racks, cargo carriers, hitch step, a 3rd brake light or other accessories into it. Much more versatile than a ball. Also nice to be able to quickly take out the hitch. Sucks the UK doesn't adopt such a simply system now that there are more and more larger vehicles on the road.

 

Having used both setups (EURO or US standard) I would pick the Euro setup any day over the US. The entire towbar feels sturdier when towing, plus the quick removal with a key and hidden features are very nice (see nothing until the ball is attached). I also like the mounting locations of the Euro towbar vs US, typically the euro setup will replace the bumper guard we use in the US, and mounts very securely. This is one of the reasons euro setups have much better tow ratings than we do, they must meet higher standards...Tow rating on a Euro Tucson is 1400KG while the US is a mere 1500lbs using the same engine/tranny combo (that is double our rating, 1400kg is just over 3000lbs)

 

Thanks, Tony
Will do this these days when weather is not so cold

 

Any idea on where to put main power wire from battery: under the car or trough interior? If we go trough interior, it may be not easy

Here is my tow bar. Installed today. Made by AutoHak. Installation was easy and without removing exhaust

 

I put the controller behind the left cargo area cover. Ran the power behind it, under the left rear door sill plate, under "B" pillar to under drivers door sill plate. Not that difficult but the hardest parts are removing the cargo cover and fishing the power wire through the grommet that shares the hood release cable. It's the smaller one grommet to the right of the power brake booster. These directions are for LHD Tucson's.

 

I bought protective "rib hose" and thought to put wire under vehicle, where pipes for rear brakes go. But then I realised that fuel pipes are also here and it's probably bad idea to put together fuel and electricity.
It will take more time, but I want to install it to looks like factory install

 

Installing my CLASS 3 CURT hitch today on my 2017 AWD 1.6 T

 

I just installed my Class 3 Curt today June 8th. Ordered it from Costco.ca $189 with free shipping, best deal I could find. Same price for Class 2 with 1 1/2" drawbar or Class 3 with 2" drawbar. Installation was a breeze, just 8 bolts. Had to disconnect rubber hanger for muffler. I'm in Ottawa as well. Installed a Swagman XTC2 Bike Carrier from MEC.

Jim

 

I worked on wiring for trailer today and not finished yet
This is not so easy as on the video clip and I can say that this is a task for professionals. It's not easy to place wire from battery trough Tucson's interior. Also, replacing taillights in very difficult because there are extra connectors and wires. Wires from module to left taillight are too short and placing the module in interior is not possible. I placed it inside left side of a bumper. I think that place can be dry and hidden from water. Also, I put silicone where wires are entering the module. Hopefully water will not enter the module. Tomorrow I just need to connect it to battery. Please keep fingers crossed for me that it will work
This Curt T-connector is advertised as made in USA, but actually it is made in Vietnam It's printed on the package.

 

Do you have to run the wires inside? Why not run it under the car to the front ?

 

I'm sure that there is an advantage of running wires inside, because factory installed wires are inside. Under Tucson, there is easy route for wires, but fuel pipes goes there. I don't like fuel near electricity.
I'm worried about all of this, because direct connection from battery goes to the module. There is no other protection, except the 10A fuse. It's good to know that all power is cut off when Tucson is locked. But with this, it's not case. That's the reason why I'm worrying.

By the way, I found two rusty places, the same on both sides on the vehicle. Vehicle is made in October 2016. It rusted under plastic which cover taillight's bolts. See images:








upload gif

 

New problems

It seems that Curt 56277 can not be used in Europe. We are using 7-pole connector for trailer lights, but this Curt 56277 has 4 way output. There is no separate wire for stop signal. I'm really in problem. What to do?

 

That's no different than the U.S. the 4 pole connector is just for lights, 7 pole connectors has the brake signal. You'll need to wire up a brake controller and splice off the 4 pole connector to add to a 7 pole connector. You could get something like this for both options: https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM11141144.html

 

I'm not sure that I understand how it works...

 

See this image, the 4 pole connector is just for signal/lights.

The 7 pole has the same wires, but also a power wire to charge the batteries of the trailer, a reverse signal for reverse lights on the trailer, and the electric brake signal wire.

The auxillary line can be wired directly to your battery, with a fuse.

The reverse signal could be tapped directly into your reverse lights.

The electric brake signal wire typically comes from a brake controller you install in the front of your car. It has a pendullum or electronic accelerometer to adjust how much voltage is on the brake wire, essentially modulating the drum brakes of your trailer based on how fast you need to slow down.

 

For the Tucson, I'd try to find a discreet brake controller, something like this made in australia. https://www.redarc.com.au/elite-electric-brake-controller

But a standard brake controller works as well, is just bulky to install in the tucson.

 

I don't have/need electric brakes on my trailer. I only need these outputs:
L-left turn signal
R-right turn signal
54-stop/brake signal
58L/R-position lights.
I have 4-way output from Curt 56277, but no idea how to use it because turn signals and stop signal use the same wires. There is no any control module on the trailer. Only wires and lamps

 

This is what you need to wire for a trailer with a dedicated brake light:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-53685.html

 

Thank you very much.
I still don't understand how it works when I press brake and use turn signal at the same time. Or, for example, when I turn on all turn signals (warning light) and press brake. How it will decide which bulb to activate on the trailer?

 

That little box reads the signal logic voltage levels from the 2 light system, then outputs based on that logic as a 3 light system with a dedicated brake light.