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2011 YF 2.0 T Spark plug update

169K views 451 replies 114 participants last post by  -Jim-  
#1 ·
I have read many posts about when to replace the Denso ZX20hCR8 plugs that come stock in our cars. Here is what DENSO states per an email from their tech line - the plugs are too new and there is no listing yet - dealer only right now at a price of around 20.00 per plug. Plug should be replaced at, are you ready for this, 30k! Old school is back. Because of the 04. mm electrode, they begin to wear and mileage decreases etc..etc...
THE GAP FOR THIS PLUG, according to DENSO, IS .8mm or .032. Mine were .28 and one was closer to .26. Once I gapped them to spec, car got around 34 mpg and hauled even more ass! I have a K&N and only use Amsoil 5w-40 Euro with their filter, which is exceptional. I use 89/93 octane as it DOES run much better. Hope this helps as the dealerships are somewhat in the dark when it comes to these cars. At least mine is. :eek:
 
#5 ·
I doubt a gap difference of 4 or 6 thousands of an inch is going to make much difference. What are you using to measure??
.4 and .6 thousandths may not sound like much, but when you realize it's 12.5% to 18.875% off it actually is a lot.

If anything else in the motor was 12-19% off, I bet it wouldn't run very good.
 
#4 ·
it could. although thats a very small gap difference, these cars might be real finicky when it comes to the gap. especially since its direct injection. some cars run fine with out of whack gaps, others not so much.
 
#6 ·
Being that it is a turbo and direct injected, spark plug gaps are important. It was the same with my SAAB 93. If it was gapped incorrectly, you could tell. Since I bought this car with 34 miles on it, it had the same "stumble" that my Saab did. So i checked the plugs and VOILA, they are all were incorrect. And a correction, the plugs will last till 45k, but with a decrease in performance and mpg. 30k is what Denso is recommending replacement.
 
#9 ·
You guys are right, 4 thousands (.004") is roughly .1mm, which may be significant enough to cause a difference. I was thinking 4 ten thousands. (.0004") which is .010mm, a very small difference. If the gap is too large, the cylinder may misfire, if too small, the spark may be weak and not last long enough. Both critical in this application.

This is the problem when you mix metric and standard units. Anyone recall what happen when nasa did this many years back....:eek:
 
#11 ·
wow, we got a few former speed3 guys in here. lol. im gonna do the same thing this weekend. i remember when i had a couple plugs out of whack on the speed. holy crap it ran like ****. lol.
 
#12 ·
Keep us posted! I'm gonna try to see if I can get a chance to check mine also. I'd like to know if anyone else notices a difference in performance after the gaps are corrected.
 
#20 ·
A 5/8" spark plug socket and extension is needed.

I just checked mine last night, and had to re-gap all of them. The car seems to be running good now, but it was running good before. I'll wait to see if my mpg increases.
 
#28 ·
Okay, so I went to the track last night, and my best time was 14.64. My previous best was 15.46, but I was trying to load the engine up and launch the car. This time I just hit the gas at the line. As for improved performance from gap... I don't know. However, I can say that on the way home from the track I was averaging 7.1 L/100 km's. So it is possible that the re-gapping has helped my fuel economy. Either way the car is running good!
 
#29 · (Edited)
I've seen a few threads about getting less than par gas mileage; this would be a good idea for those who are not achieving the same gas mileage as others...

*edit: mine needed a little adjustment according to my feeler guage, but were pretty close to .032; also, look to be in good shape for 8k on the clock. At least was able to get some anti-seize and di-electric grease in there.
 
#33 ·
It was 15C or 59F outside. I tried with TC on and off, in auto and manual mode. My best run was with TC on in manual. I had a lot more tire spin than before, and suspect it is do to my new NP motor mount. I need better/wider tires to hook up. I'm gonna be putting the stock motor mount bushings in for the winter, because I won't be racing again until the spring. I don't really like the extra vibrations at idle, but can overlook them if I am racing, and I get petter performance.
My MPH was consistently around 97.5, and 60' around 2.3 seconds. My 60' was the same the last time I ran, but I could only get to 92 MPH.
I think if I could hook up better, and run with TC off, I could run a little quicker, by maybe a couple tenths of a second.
I definitely agree that we need a tune, and I WANT ONE SOON!!!
 
#37 ·
Checked mine yesterday, all 4 were around .6mm to .65mm so I made the adjustment to around .8mm. I noticed the discrepancy between what Denso said and the manual, I figured go with Denso for now. Does anyone know if one is better than the other?

Running fine, seems a little smoother but don't have any hard evidence of this. I have had some misfires with startup a few times before, not enough to pull an engine code but my OBD listed it, so maybe this will help that.
 
#38 ·
Going with densos numbers is at least a step in the right direction. Their numbers may be optimal for that plug but not neccesarrily our car.
 
#40 ·
My response has seemed a bit sluggish lately and I've also had a couple of random misfire stumbles at cold start so I checked mine this afternoon. All were gapped close to .026 so I regapped to .032 all the way around. A quick test drive and there did seem to be improvement. I'll have to watch and see if my MPG improves.

I'm tempted to go on and push them all out to .040 as the manual recommends.
 
#42 ·
I just finished checking mine and they were all set at .032...so I guess i'm fine. They did look like they get pretty **** hot. Also had some orange rust color on the ceramic.