Sounds like it could be transmission slippage too. Check the fluid level in your transmission while its running. It may also have never had its transmission filter/fluid changed before you got it. Might be an idea to take it in to your Hyundai dealer and have them change the filter/fluid.
Hyundai's are pretty picky with the type of transmission fluid used. Make sure it is the Hyundai brand ATF SPIII

 

Yeah, that is quite possible.....that is one problem with buying a used car, even if only slightly used....you don't know what has, or has not been done to it.

 

Good luck and let us know how you made out

 

UGH! OMG! My dad was checking the plugs out, and when he pulled the last wire out...it was broken! GEEZ. He says he's not sure if it was already broken, or if he did it because it was kinda hard to get it. Boy...this is going to be fun. (One day I'll tell you about my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix. ) :angry2:
P.S. I found the maintenance log in the bag with the owner's manual...and the last entry was on March 15, 2001...at 23,000 miles. (I don't know if they got lazy..and didn't write what they did down, or they got lazy and didn't do anything else.) So it looks like I'll have a busy weekend.....transmission fluid/ filter, plugs possibly, wires definately...I swear this car better last me 15 years.

 

The manual has Hyundai ATF SP-II, or Genuine Diamond ATF SP-II M...did you mean III or II.

 

That is correct, but Hyundai has since upgraded the ATF to SPlll. Have your dealer check the “current data” in the TCM, particular the TPS signal.

 

Well if you need options and dont want to purchase the oil from the dealer you could use the Redline Synthetic C+ which meets the MOPAR 7176 ATF requirement.

 

well I went to the Hyundai dealership in my area to get the transmission fluid, and because it's one of those tri-dealerships....Hyundai, Isuzu, and Mitisubishi- the Mitsubishi dealership is where all the maintenance work is done for the Hyundais....they gave me (Mitsubishi) Diamond ATF SP-II( $37)....had the transmission filter and fluid changed....got a oil change( $129).......and it still "lunged"....I then went to the guy I am buying the vehicle from because I had to make a payment..he had one of his guys put another fuel filter on, and replace
the plug wires....( which I beleive was broken previous to my father pulling it out.) I don't know what that is going to cost yet, he left, and his wife said she would have to talk to him to find out what to charge, and what I would be charged for....and it still does it.. So I have spent ALL day in car shops and my car is still not fixed. :angry2:
So I finally broke down and called the Mitsubishi dealership, and scheduled an appointment for Monday..for them to check it out and see if they can find the problem..($40)...I swear...I know preventative maintenance is "cheaper" than having to replace a motor, or transmission...I just don't think I should be have problems already. It is nerveracking. :crying:

 

Well. :crying: I just came back from the dealership, and , I paid them $40 to tell me that I need a Mass Air Flow Sensor.....$348.00 parts($200++) and labor Which I do not have! I called the people I bought the car from what I was told. His wife was all snappy, and said "Why did you take it there?!" I said "Because I have brought it to you guys twice in two weeks, and you still havent' fixed it." She says
"We could of put it on the computer." You could, why didn't you do that the first time I brought it to You! I then waited for them to put my car back together, because , Unfortunately I did not have 348.00 hidden in my underwear. :angry2: On the way home it ran worse than ever.!!!! Every auto part place I called was "unable to order", "it's a dealer item", and even " You don't need a MAF, those RARELY go bad." Hmmmmmmmmm. Although, I know some dealerships are less than honest, and often charge outrageous prices...I don't think they pulled the diagnosis out of their A**! Of course, I haven't figured out why it went from only "lunging" while trying to pass, or take off like a bat ****, but now EVERYTIME I apply the gas pedal it "lunges". :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:

 

:blink: I was browsing some other posts about MAF Sensors, and actually managed to locate one for about $55, we put it on the car, disconnected the battery cable, etc.....It still did it. Instead of just at 55 mph (4000rpms), trying to pass someone, or "lunging" only when accelerating REALLY quickly....it began lunging from stop lights, 30 mph, 40 mph as soon as I left the delearship that wanted $348 to replace the "faulty" MAF Sensor. When the first replacement did not work, we exchanged it for another....put it on, disconnected battery cable...yada yada....it STILL did it. Oh, yeah...and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light is on. :crying: Someone anyone, please if you have any ideas on what could be causing this....please, please let me know.

 

oh Yay! my dad took the car to the local autozone.......they cleared the "codes", and the check engine light went off, but he cannot get the friggin car out of the parking lot. :clap: I hate my car!

 

Easy does it girl, you unfortunately have deled with ninken-poops. As I understand it, the engine is jerking only when you accelerate hard, yes ????
This is a typical sing of spark plug break down. What type of plugs are in your car ?? What were the codes in the computer ???

 

I have no idea about the codes, my father was the one who took the vehicle to Autozone, and they cleared the codes. As I stated in an earlier ranting, we tried two different AMFS, I think the chances of all three being bad is pretty RARE.
Dad did finally get the car home, and one of the guys at Autozone said something about the Air/Fuel mixture was off...they did get the "Check Engine" light off, and now it only lunges between 3000, and 4000 rpms. When I drove it home from the dealership it lunged constantly, and after trying the two different MAFs it lunged constantly. The first two weeks of ownership, she drove like champ...no problems at all. Plus my steering wheel vibrates......from the idle. Well, Duke at this point I'm ready to try anything...what type of plugs do you recommend?

 

My dad thinks it was "1122"?

 

P1122 doesn't make sense. the s-plug should be a NGK type BKR5EY ll, don't fit any other plug.

 

Ok, I will try replacing the plugs,,,as far as the code, he said that's what he thought the person said,, all I know is it is running like it was before I took it to the dealership(between 3000 and 4000rpms, and at HARD acceleration), not like when I left the dealership(stop lights, 30 mph, 40 mphs, up slight inclines--constantly :blink: )

 

Are they pre-set at the correct gap, or will I have to set the gap...My dad is a truck driver, and he is back on the road...So I will have to put the plugs in myself B) I know where they go....I know not to try to change plugs while the engine is hot....I know which extensions, etc..of my Dad's to get the plugs out....I've called the auto parts store..and have the $11.30 to buy the new plugs...but I am a little nervous...this is my first time. :innocent: Any advice?

 

Okay, I am back from my friendly Auto Parts Store, one place did not have any NGK plugs, but the salesman said that another store carried NGK plugs( but I don't go to that store anymore...When I was looking for front rotors for the car I was quoted $42.88 a pair, and they had to be ordered..so I ordered them, then when I went to pick them up..it was $42.88 a piece! I told them to keep them and I went to another store and got them for less than $40.00( for the pair) and they waived the shipping and handling charges(becaue of course they had to order them...I don't know if it is just the area I live in, or it's like this everywhere...but hardly anyone keeps Hyundai parts in stock..they always have to be ordered.)anyway to make a long story short...I don't do business with store that was suggested anymore...I know what I was told, and the clerk wanted to stand there and argue with me. :angry2: Sorry that was way of subject. :blush:

Anyway, back to my spark plugs I have a few questions....
In my Owner's Manual -- Champion RC10YC4, and NGK BKR5ES-11 are recommended with a Gap range of 0.039~0.043 in.

Duke, you recommended NGK type BKR5EY ll , and as I previously stated I have a little knowledge of cars....mostly learned through experience (I have bad luck with cars) I do what I can to take care of them (oil changes, transmission filter/fluid change), but it seems like once I have one problem fixed something else goes wrong, and I have never owned a NEW car, always a used one, with NO warranty) or watching my dad, there I go again fftopic:
I do not know the "fine details" and I have the impression that you are very knowledgable. when I called the auto parts store and asked if they had NGK plugs in stock for a 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS Wagon, he said he had one set, so I went to pick them up and was given:
NGK BKR5EGP (G-Power Platinum) set at .44 Gap...will these work, or do I need to take them back and check with other auto part places for the specific plugs you suggested? :blush: I guess I should of been more specific when requesting the type plug.

 

Do one plug at a time that way you wont get anything mixed up and i believe that is a specific torque you have to tighten it to ..................... or you could do what i did when i did not have a torque wrench and tighten it until it feels right

 

Thank You, Titan.

 

Spark Plug Update.

Ok, I put my plugs in....I guess I was a little fearful of overtightening....and I took the car up the road.....I road a little way up the road....HARD accelerating....she seemed ok, until I got in the crossover to come back to the house...the whole car got to shaking.....the "check engine" came on...I bounced all the way back to my house....opened up the hood...and all of the plug boots had popped up....guess I didn't have em tight enough....but all the plugs were still where I put em. I tightened them a little more...and took the battery cable loose....cranked her up...engine light was off...and no more miss....now let's see if the boots stay in this time. :blush:

 

**** you are lucky nothign to dangerous happened ................. maybe you could takee it to a local garage and ask them to tighten it to the correct torque.


Just incase.........

 

Well....My boots didn't pop up this time...she's still hesitating a little when AGGRESSIVELY accelerating,,,but it does not occur as often as it did. ..and it happens around 5000 rpms..from a stopped start....it feels different more like a "harsh" shift like it's catching up. Before it felt more like there was a total loss...of power, gas, It is actually very hard to describe...lunging was the closest term I could come up with. I mean don't get me wrong...I don't always Floor the pedal when I take off...I just want to know that when I need the power...I have it; that if I try to pass someone, she won't cut off on me, and get me killed. :wink2:

 

ok maybe you could go get the codes read for free again to determine if there is anything else generating errors ........... once you get the code post it up or go to HMA site and see what is the problem.......

 

I would Titan, but I am pretty much broke...I spent the last bit of money I had on the plugs. She's been taking all my money the past two weeks.....
let's see...$40.00 front rotors, $25 right caliper, $128 for oil, trans filter/fluid change (+$37.00 transmission fluid), $40 for the Diagnosis at dealership, $55 for used MAF( a new one from dealership $200+), oh yeah, and bi-weekly car payment of $125.00 on friday( still owe a little over $4,000), (at least the guy I'm buying the car from didn't charge me for the battery, and two fuel filters, and new plug wires he had his people put in.)I have only had the car since January 23. I don't mean to be crying about money all the time, but when you don't have it...it makes it hard...my dad has been footing most of bill, and has saved me a little on labor..he put the rotors, caliper, and MAF on. I started crying when they told me to fix my car yesterday (replace MAF + labor) was going to cost $348. The car has low mileage, but there is no warranty because it is a "salvage rebuilt"...(only way you can tell is that the headlights are different from each other.)