Oh goody - I was just about to ask the same question so looking forward to seeing if anyone can tell/show us

 

Here you go! It isn't the best of pictures, since it's low res. from a digital service manual, but hopefully it helps. It may be easier to see if you can download the image and then enlarge it.

The sensor is located at "C67" in the image, and it will be directly in front of the sensor power connector that can be seen in the pic.

 

Here you go! It isn't the best of pictures, since it's low res. from a digital service manual, but hopefully it helps. It may be easier to see if you can download the image and then enlarge it.

The sensor is located at "C67" in the image, and it will be directly in front of the sensor power connector that can be seen in the pic.

View attachment 461160

Awesome!!! Many thanks

 

Thanks! I have the code P0340. The connector for that, in my car, seems that it broke apart... like the plastic dry rotted.
I did order a new sensor, but I was wondering if/where I can get a harness pigtail for it, to splice in place of the old one?

 

Rock

Rock Auto has several new connectors for your sensor for $7.00 or so.

More Information for WELLS 1P1421

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP3975

 

I think I have the same rotted connector. It's been taped up by a previous owner and is getting near the top of my list to fix. This may be the connector for the sensor. Eventually I'll buy it and see if it really fits. Sorry for the inconclusive info.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ulti-purpose-connector/std0/s745/v/a/19160/automotive-suv-2007-hyundai-santa-fe

 

I took a picture of my connector - pulled back a bit. It seems that only the sensor end is damaged, the green pigtail might be still OK... I'll know more when I swap it, should be here tomorrow.

 

Cool. I'd like to see that picture for sure. Thanks.

 

That stupid sensor is mounted upside-down, with the bolt almost inaccessible. I can feel it with a finger, but I cannot put a wrench on it. A socket is too long (hits something else). It feels like a 10mm...
Is there a male connector that can be spliced? I am tempted to cut off the end of the new sensor... to use it's connector.

 

That stupid sensor is mounted upside-down, with the bolt almost inaccessible. I can feel it with a finger, but I cannot put a wrench on it. A socket is too long (hits something else). It feels like a 10mm...
Is there a male connector that can be spliced? I am tempted to cut off the end of the new sensor... to use it's connector.

I had the same frustration yesterday replacing mine. Hopefully I'm in time to save you some frustration...

Easiest way to remove the sensor is to remove the end cap that it's attached to. Hopefully these photos will show you...,

See the bolt with the 10mm socket on it? There is another one on the opposite side. These are the only two bolts you need to undo to get it off, although you will need to disconnect some of the other connectors to give you enough access to them. Hope this helps.

 

Thank you!
I was thinking to remove that cap, but my daughter was impatient (had places to go ), the sensor was delayed in the mail...

So I just crumbled the rest of the connector rotten plastic with my fingers, put some shrink-tube on the leftover spades (contacts) and jammed them in the other harness connector.
Use plenty of electrical tape to keep them together.

For now she drove it fine, better than ever. I might replace it next weekend, now that the sensor arrived.

 

Awesome info, Jasper180268!

 

Cheers. I've received a lot of help from this forum, so it was time for me to return the favour

 

Just found a good video for this (it's the same for both the EF 2.7 and EF-B 2.5 V6s)
How to change a cam shaft sensor on a 2003 Hyundai Sonata, Santa Fe, Tiburon 2.7l V6 - YouTube

 

Well, that sensor is replaced. Indeed after removing the 2 bolts and bracket that was covering the end cap, it was easy.
I didn't take out the breather box, just the top part, the air hose (MAF housing) - disconnected all the way from the throttle body. There is enough space.

But in doing this replacement job, I have found out two more rotten sensor connectors above the one I replaced. Those hot metallic clips that keep the plastic in place were not the best idea for long term.

I decided to keep their blades inserted, and secured them with a bit of wire. See the blue and gray ones above the green camshaft connector. I don't know where those are going, the upper manifold would have to get lifted to see. It's too hot outside for that.
It still runs

 

Well, that sensor is replaced. Indeed after removing the 2 bolts and bracket that was covering the end cap, it was easy.
I didn't take out the breather box, just the top part, the air hose (MAF housing) - disconnected all the way from the throttle body. There is enough space.

But in doing this replacement job, I have found out two more rotten sensor connectors above the one I replaced. Those hot metallic clips that keep the plastic in place were not the best idea for long term.

I decided to keep their blades inserted, and secured them with a bit of wire. See the blue and gray ones above the green camshaft connector. I don't know where those are going, the upper manifold would have to get lifted to see. It's too hot outside for that.
It still runs

View attachment 461508

I'm pretty sure they're the knock sensors - one for the front bank and the other for the rear. I'm about to look into those myself as replacing the crank & cam sensors hasn't fixed my problem.

 

I think the knock connector is the one on very top of the picture, square.
This is the cable for it, from Rockauto:
More Information for WVE 1P2373 (rockauto.com)

 

It might be that, is too dark now to investigate.

 

Perhaps those with more knowledge should share that knowledge rather than make smart a## comments

 

Whom are you referring to?