This is what the horn connector looks like

Hook pin 2 to ground. Hook pin one to battery positive. It should sound. If not then you need a new horn. Next test have car running. Press horn in car have someone put a dvom on pin 1 positive lead pin 2 negative lead. Do you get a voltage reading when the horn is pressed?

 

The test should be done on the e25 connector for voltage and the HORN when hooking up the positive to battery! Remember when testing horn make a note by the diagram the pins. They will be reverse on the horn itself if you see what I mean by studying the look of the plug

 

If you get no voltage at the connect we need to test the horn relay. Its located there:

 

Pull relay out of fuse box and do the following tests.


Hook pin 3 to POWER with a jumper lead to battery positive
Hook pin 5 to ground. Or attach a jumper lead from the relay to the body of the vehicle. The whole body of the car is a ground. Do not connect this lead to the battery as a spark can happen. Set dvom to continuity setting and touch pins 1 with any dvom lead and the other lead place on pin 2. When you touch the negative ground to pin 5 of the relay you will hear a click and the DVOM will read 0 or if you have an expensive dvom you can hear a sound.


Below is the wire diagrams for w/alarm wo/alarm.


If you have any more questions post them here. Have a good day.


With burglar alarm

Without burglar alarm:

:wink:

 

How this circuit works is When you press the steering wheel it supplies a ground to the relay activating the horn. Key on is set the hot is on and feeds through the relay I got you to test directly to the horn, The horn sounds as long as the trigger ground is supplied by the steering wheel switch. Let go of the switch the ground disappears and the relay switches off and the horn turns off. This is one of the easier circuits to fix! Now you learned something.


One more thing I forgot to tell you. You need to check G13 ground distribution circuit that feeds the horn at pin 2 on the E25 connector (not on the horn) but the plug....


If you have a bad ground at g13 the power cannot find a ground thus the circuit will be dead after the relay. So if your horn works and you have no voltage at the plug the following picture will show you where this ground feeds to the body.


You CAN bypass this ground by the test I showed you earlier. But you still need to check this ground. Trace G13 and disconnect this wire from the body. Set your DVOM to continuity. Place one test lead on the end of this disconnected wire and the other dvom test lead on pin 2 of the E25 connector. You dvom meter should sound or see a 0 reading ont he display. If not you have a break in the ground wire. At this point I would just runa new wire to this point.


The reason for this tests is because you said the car got in a accident. It could easily broke the ground wire in this case!


g13 location: PHOTO 2 look you will see it...

 

E62 in the picture is the RELAY PIN DIAGRAM by the way. So when I say pins 1 pins 3 ect...ect this is what i'm talking about.........

 

Below is the location of the HORN FUSE. Pull this fuse out and check it is it is blown before running any of these tests. You always check the fuse first. To test the fuse pull it out and put your DVOM test lead on one pin and the other lead on the other. Check continuity. If you get 0 then the fuse is good. If you see 1 and nothing changes on your dvom if you peek into the fuse casing you will see the thin wire is broken! Replace the fuse. Now if the fuse blows again you have an active short. If you need info on how to find an active short I can post an article on this but lets try these first.

 

Last tip click on my signature link and goto the window washer series videos. I show you how to do these test in a video and show you how to READ wire diagrams and the color codes. This might help you visualize this.

 

Great information as usual, ikilledbarbie -- cheers!

Alright, I DVOM the fuse, was fine

Then I removed the front grill to get a better view of the horn.

The horn is a bit rusty and the outter most metal disc is just very slightly bent.

I want to DVOM the E25 (this is the cable that is actually plugged into the horn, yes? OR is it the actual reciever portion on the horn itself?)

My main question is, when you state

Hook pin 2 to ground. Hook pin one to battery positive.

How exactly do I connect a pin to the battery? Do I need a certain kind of cable for that?

EDIT: I have not tested the relay yet, but it makes a very audible "CLICK" noise upon pressing the sterring wheel. I imagine the issue is either the horn itself or the cable attached to it due to the original front end collision.

UPDATE: Watching your vid, answered my question. Going to the store to buy what I need.

 

When jumping to battery connect only the pins on the horn. That way the horn will sound isolated from the car circuit to test the horn (also called the load)


When the horn is pressed in the car the tests are done on the plug so we test the horn circuit when its activated and the horn is isolated now and replaced with the dvom.


Make sense?


P.S. A power probe 3 really speeds up this testing that's why mechanics use them. Not all loads can be activated via 12v direct battery voltage but this circuit can.

 

Use speaker wire. This will get you close to the proper Guage wire. You can put clips onto each end of the wire. Then clip the wire to the positive and the other end to the horn pin. A good ground to use would be the nuts that hold the strut under the hood. They have a good steel contact for a good ground. You could use jumper cables clips to hold speaker wire to the terminal. I've done this before. We're talking a quick test. Do the test quick to hear it sound. Then disconnect positive.

I know the washer switch has pins that you can clip to. If the horn gives you troubles just touch it to the pin and use your other hand to touch the ground. Make dam sure the wires do not touch! This could feed voltage from the battery into your cars ground damaging other circuits.

Since you are questioning this test my advice would be disconnect negative on battery then positive.

Run jumper cables from positive battery to horn. Attached these. Then connect jumper cable at battery ground or negative to battery then touch other end to the horn. Let the spark happen at the load side. If you do not connect in this order your battery might spark and if there is battery gas it will explode. Disconnect negative jumper first then the positive jumper lead. Hook up main positive terminal then the negative terminal.

Same idea when your helping a guy who's car won't start and you jump start As for me I would use a power probe 3 later...

 

Got some test leads, connected black wire to strut bolt, touched red to poz terminal. No feedback from horn. Reversed leads just to check, no feedback. Pictured: imgur: the simple image sharer

Turned car on, depressed horn on steering wheel. DVOM got reading from horn cable, when horn was let go the reading went to 0.

Sounds like it must just be a broken horn then, will buy a new one tomorrow!

 

See how easy that was! You are better to test than throw parts at it. Glad to help