When did you change the timing belt?

 

It should be easy to hear the fuel pump prime when you power the ignition. Usually when a pump fails it does it slowly. Car will be hard to start or will struggle to accelerate and want to stall alot.

I would start with Spark ... make sure your coil is still working ... this is cheaper then testing fuel.

If you have spark then yeah start looking at fuel.

Any engine codes from the computer ?

 

My car has been taking a bit longer to turn on lately, but it always turned on.
I changed the fuel pump, but I still don't hear anything when I turn the key...

Is there a fuel pump fuse? I only see a fuel pump relay.
iI switched the fuel pump relay with the horn relay... and still nothing.

I haven't changed the timing belt... i opened the cover, and it seems to be ok.
I'll have to pickup a code reader and see if there are any codes, but I recently unplugged the battery to put in the fuel pump, so I think the codes might have erased... :\ even thought there was no check engine light when it died initially...

 

codes are stored even if the battery is disconnected unless you touch the battery posts together, the PCM has a capacitive charge it holds to keep the memory for service work.

The fact that you changed the pump and still aren't getting it to fire means one of two things. You have a power issue to the pump ( does the fuel gauge work? ) or you ran out of gas...can't always assume that the old gauge worked. I just replaced a coworkers fuel pump in his truck that died on his wife...guess what, new pump, no start, empty gauge reading. 2 gallons of gas and it started right up. Lets rule out the easily overlooked items first.

 

+1 ^^^ If you're not hearing the fuel pump run when you initially turn the car ignition to the "on" position (before you try to turn it further to "start"), then you need to check the wire connections to the pump. That thing should emit an audible purr like a well-contented cat for several seconds as it primes up the line pressures. Close the door prior to turning the key with the window down and listen. Hopefully, you'll not have a lot of background noise in the area that could interfere with the sound of the pump starting up.

On the back of the fuse panel cover, is there a listing for a fuel pump fuse? Fuses under/behind the dash, and also under the hood?

 

UPDATE: I rechecked every fuse, and I found a blown out ECM B fuse.
I switched the fuse with the horn fuse, (Both 10s) and now I can hear the fuel pump again. Which is great, but the car still won't start!

I saw fuel in the tank when I changed out the fuel pump, but I said to myself, maybe there isn't enough in there... so I added 2 gallons of gas and still nothing.

Any other ideas? I'm getting desperate... I'd just take it to the mechanic at this point, but I don't have the funds.

I read online that the crankshaft sensors are common to go out on Santa Fes. What do you guys think?

 

You should check for spark, just to rule that out as a problem. Once you determine spark is present and strong, then it's a fuel problem. It's likely, since you sprayed starting fluid and it fired, that you have spark, but I'd still rule that out. A common cause of "no spark" is crankshaft sensor fault.

If you're turning the car over a lot, and there's no start, then the plugs should have some fuel on them if the fuel system is working okay. So pull out a plug and look for some fuel.

 

+1^^ Jsinton... yes check for spark 1st. which will usually tell you if the crank sensor is working or not. It basically is the signal pickup for the spark....cam sensors are usually more for the fuel end and time the injectors.

Kiss...Keep It Simple Señor... don't just assume it's something major...fuel, spark, air, compression.... are the basic components...now that you hear the pump, check the plugs and verify spark, I think it may be leaning more towards spark issue...and the fact a fuse blew, it may be a failing sensor or the wiring to it. Maybe chafing wire, which is why when you turned it cut off. May be helpful also to see what other components are tied into that 1 fuse.

 

Update: I Pulled One Of My Plugs As Suggested, Hooked It UP To The Plug Wire And Laid It Across The Metal On The Engine, Started It Up, And No Sparks At All.

What Do You All Think?

t

 

If you are POSITIVE you aren't getting spark, then I'd definitely look at the crank sensor first as your problem since they are notorious on these, plus the crank signal sets up the entire engine to run. It's the signal for spark timing and injector timing along with the cam sensor.

 

I read online that the crankshaft position sensor is notorious for going out on these cars... and my car has quite a lot of miles now. Pushing 160K.

I saw this video on youtube regarding the location of the sensor.
youtu.be/5gwta1NvtsQ

Do you think I can splice the red and black wire and put the new one on there without having to take out the power steering assembly?

What do you think?

TIA!

 

Anyone... Anyone...? Bueller? Bueller...? lol

 

I wouldn't splice factory wiring, especially in a location like that. You are inviting future problems, especially since it's likely not the factory electrical connection that is bad.

 

I agree with Redfury +1^ Crank sensor would be the route to take, since it is a common issue and it's directly linked to spark. Most crank sensors are considered maintenance anymore, especially in hyundais

 

You can replace the CPS , cable etc on the SF 2.4 L **** box without removing the power steering pump..




whacker

 

check the crank sensor.

 

Another option

My 2003 Santa Fe was cutting out whilst driving, slower to start etc - lots of people thought it was the crank sensor, but it turned out to be one of the fuel injectors, had it replaced and it's been running fine for a few weeks now.

Don't know anything about mechanics, or even if yours has injectors, but thought I'd mention it just in case.

 

i did a splice for the crank sensor. i replaced the timing belt and when done, i noticed this crack at the crank sensor. no way i was going to remove the belt to install the new one. i could not remove the pins from the connector, so i just cut the wires (so the splice would be done over the valve cover), soldered the wires in place, put heat shrinking tubes over the spice, then some rubber electrical tape over each wire splice. engine running good. if you look at the thickness of the insulation of the wires we are talking about, it is easy to realize that all the insulating precautions i took are better than just the original wire insulation. dont be afraid: cut, splice and be happy. whacker (a forum member) says he has a method to replace the crank sensor without cutting or removing the timing belt. im sure he will share the secret, but as of right now, my splice is working good.