2012 Sonata using 1/2 - 3/4 quart oil weekly - HELP!!! - Page 4 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sbr711 View Post
Oil consumption test only involve print of worksheet from Hyundai Document library, write VIN and start mileage, verify oil level correct, and send you on way..

Owner stop back into service aisle for inspect a few times at 1000 mile intervals I think (need to look at sheet to verify)

After so many interval, simple calculator work to figure rough usage of oil,, then if deemed excessive,, service fella will contact Hyundai PA with results for an engine replace... seen a couple upward of 200,000 get replaced, though they was regular oil change customers with a lot of history in our files

There is generally no charge at our place,, what we going to charge you for, a sheet of printed paper, couple minute in aisle to check oil and top off (hourly oil change kid work), and write down finding... we have hourly aisle people who always filling air to tires for people who just drive in and ask for air..

Real simple really,, want to try and get free engine,, ask aisle fella to start an Oil Consumption sheet since you feel your engine drink too much oil,, get the numbers, and let them submit to Hyundai..
Started oil consumption test with my local dealer. 160k miles, current rate is 1q per 300 miles, asked for a 500 mile intervals. Dealer said there would be 4 visits, 4th would take full day with compression and leak down tests.
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post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Johns2.0T View Post
Oil control rings might be seized its a guess? anyone try using Rislone Engine Treatment in there Oil.? try that guys see if that makes any difference Just make sure You drain about a 1 Liter of engine Oil from Your Oils crankcase before adding the Yellow bottle. i would run it 1,000kms before Your next Oil change also driving it Spiritedly - with the Ocassional full throttle for example merging on freeway the added higher RPM"S will help rattle & shake Pistons around wich is added help for breaking a stuck Oil control ring Loose if thats the actuall problem.
I tried Liqui Moly engine flush twice (for 15 min before oil change), Bg109 EPR (for 15 min before oil change), Sea Foam twice (as directed, for 500 miles before oil change), MMO last 3 times (every time for 3k miles). Also piston soaked with Sea Foam twice and with MMO once (every time overnight), NOTHING HELPED. Last 40k miles I had 3k OCIs with full synthetic oil (5W30 high mileage Castrol and then Valvoline) and M1 filters.

Current consumption rate is 1q per 300 miles.

Please share your experiences.

Last edited by Adv Vantage; 02-10-2019 at 12:12 AM.
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post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Adv Vantage View Post
Started oil consumption test with my local dealer. 160k miles, current rate is 1q per 300 miles, asked for a 500 mile intervals. Dealer said there would be 4 visits, 4th would take full day with compression and leak down tests.
Interesting that they're doing comp and leak down testing. From everything I've read about these engine issues, the dealerships normally don't add anything outside of what Hyundai/Kia corporate tells them to do. It makes me wonder if the automakers have added compression to the oil consumption testing, based on new information they've recently discovered. Or perhaps that comp testing has always been done, and just hasn't been mentioned in prior threads?
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post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 02:14 PM
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Just run it out of oil...when it seizes, top it off with old oil and tow to dealer for class action lawsuit recall engine replacement
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Motto for advice giving on a forum: You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

Sad country is where most neutered men can't change a tire or use a tire PSI gauge, can't check their engine oil or even pop their hood.

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Those who say it cannot be done, should not interrupt the person doing it.
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post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 07:47 PM
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This thread seems like the right one to jump in with my experience.

My Sonata 2011 currently has a total of roughly 124K miles on the odometer.
I noticed the oil consumption issue when the car reached the 95K mark. I change my own oil at roughly 5K miles and use Hi-Mileage Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20 and the pricier Motor1/Fram filters. I noticed I was collecting less and less residue oil in between changes. Additionally, the color of the residual oil was pitch black.

I checked for leaks on the driveway and found nothing. No oil deposits on the engine block. The car doesn't smoke EXCEPT if you are going down an interstate and decide to really floor it: Then it will let out a faint puff of (grey?) smoke. The rear exhausts are clean on the outside but if you rub your fingers on the inside your fingers will be coated with a relatively thick layer of pitch black (carbon?) deposits.

The "Oh crap" moment happened when I checked my oil at 115K miles and the dipstick was almost dry with just a speck of black oil on the tip! I immediately added 5 quarts and decided to take it to 117K to see if the oil consumption continued. Then is when I first measured it was consuming 1 quart per 1K.

I asked an auto mechanic associate I know to take a informal look at the engine (no tools, just eye-balling if anything was obviously wrong). He asked me to remove the crank case cap while the engine was idling. He pointed out it there was a good amount of "blow by" coming from the engine. He recommend I get it to a dealership as soon as possible.

During this time I learned of the engine recall on this model. I took the vehicle to my local Hyundai dealership (with less than 120K miles) and asked if the engine recall and oil consumption were related. I didn't get a clear answer. What they did offer to do was conduct a series of 3 oil consumption tests where I would return the vehicle after 1K miles of operation and they would check the oil consumption. It ended up being 4 tests because the dealership "didn't take proper protections" on the first test (Didn't zip tie the dip stick, or put a seal on the oil drain outlet: I suppose to detect any tampering on my part).

I am about to bring the vehicle for my last consumption test at the dealership. So far their tests have confirmed what I observed: the vehicle consumes 1 quart per 1K. However, according to the Hyundai dealership this is considered normal. Now, you and I know on newer vehicles (and 2011 isn't that old) this is a bunch of bull. An '86 Chrysler, sure, but a 2011? Nah, not buying it.

So here are my questions:
1) Has anyone dealt with this issue and gotten the dealership to actually fix it (hopefully without a lot of out-of-pocket expense)?
2) If the dealership will not fix has someone managed to fix the issue themselves (again, hopefully without a lot of out-of-pocket expense)?
3) If 1 and 2 have no positive answers, what are my other options besides selling it while it still has some value?

Here is what I HAVE TRIED on my own to fix the issue:
1) Replace PCV value
The latter didn't work.

Here is what I HAVE NOT TRIED on my own to fix the issue:
1) Heavier weight of oil
2) Oil additives/detergents (ex. Lucas)
3) "Mechanic in a can" products like Marvel Mystery Oil, Seaform, etc. to clean the engine

Many thanks in advance for everyone's comments.

Last edited by Scott.McKenzie.Lewis; 02-12-2019 at 08:39 PM.
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post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 08:45 PM
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To eliminate oil consumption, you need a new engine.

Motto for advice giving on a forum: You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

Sad country is where most neutered men can't change a tire or use a tire PSI gauge, can't check their engine oil or even pop their hood.

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Those who say it cannot be done, should not interrupt the person doing it.
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post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 08:56 PM
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Touche, thou halt made worms meat out of me, deadrx7conv. (Seriously, I was hoping there was an easy solution to this Sonata's issue, but alas it doesn't seem so.)

Last edited by Scott.McKenzie.Lewis; 02-12-2019 at 09:09 PM.
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post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 09:46 AM
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[QUOTE=Scott.McKenzie.Lewis;5874865]This thread seems like the right one to jump in with my experience.


The "Oh crap" moment happened when I checked my oil at 115K miles and the dipstick was almost dry with just a speck of black oil on the tip! I immediately added 5 quarts and decided to take it to 117K to see if the oil consumption continued. Then is when I first measured it was consuming 1 quart per 1K.

I wouldn’t mention running it nearly dry when you’re talking to the dealership🤥. There’s a time for complete honesty and this isn’t one of them. Even though it’s not your fault it gives the dealer an out if he wants to be 🤬.
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post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:30 PM
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Another example of EPA/government mandated fuel economy wreaking havoc on engine longevity and actually increasing auto emission levels.

Cut and paste from a website:

In order to reduce frictional drag energy loss and increase fuel efficiency, gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines use thinner and lighter piston rings, called low tension piston rings.
Piston ring spring force in older port fuel injection (PFI) engines used to be as high as 30 psi. New PFI and GDI engines can have more than a 60 percent reduction in sealing pressure on the cylinder walls.
At the same time, new PFI and GDI engine compression ratios have increased from 9:1 to as high as 14:1. These higher compression ratios dramatically increase cylinder compression and the overall pressure for fuel ignition, sometimes as high as 2000 psi.
This huge increase in pressure creates more force on the low tension rings. Piston rings are supposed to prevent fuel and combustion gases from “blowing down” between the piston and cylinder wall and oil from moving up into the cylinder. But, low tension piston rings have a greater tendency to allow blow-by. Crankcase contamination compromises lubrication and promotes oil degradation.


Thank you EPA for GDI engines which, because of LSPI, run very rich at low rpms and create a lot of soot, thank you EPA for variable output oil pumps which are more complex and prone to failure, thank you EPA for smaller engines and lighter cars to promote fuel economy (plastic intakes, plastic radiator parts, etc..etc..) at the expense of engine longevity, thank you EPA for CVT's which can't be rebuilt when they fail, thank you for 0w-17 oil which I'm sure will really protect engine bearings. All of these technology innovations are a result of ridiculous EPA mandates to improve corporate average fuel economy resulting in disposable cars.

Yep, your car gets better fuel economy but all that oil consumption can't be good for the environment, right?

Don't get me started about diesel emissions which have ruined diesel engines with unreliable DEF/DPF and dozens of sensor that eventually fail.

Don't be surprised if GDI engines end up with particulate filters. THe exhaust tip on my Santa FE 2.0t has more soot on it than my 6.7L diesel F350 which wastes about 3 gallons of fuel every 200-250 miles during a 30 minute DPF regeneration.
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post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:35 PM
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My 2011 Sonata with 136K has a similar oil consumption issue as well. Mine will burn about a quart every 800 miles or so. I have done pretty much what others have done to correct the issue and nothing has helped. In my professional opinion, I do believe the engine has excessive "blow-by" and the only true fix would be new pistons and rings, assuming the cylinder bores are within specification. For comparison, my wife's 2009 Santa Fe 2.7 burns very little oil between oil changes (5K OCI).
Kind regards
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