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ATF Drain and Fill with pics for those interested.

290K views 238 replies 74 participants last post by  DarrenBach 
#1 ·
Did my second Transmission Drain and Fill and took some pics of the process for those who may be considering doing the same. 2011 Sonata 2.4L with 57k on the odometer.


Let's get the Legal stuff out of the way.
Disclaimer: This is for informational purposes only. I am not responsible for any incidental or consequential damages arising out of anyone attempting these actions.




Things you'll need:

A way to raise all 4 corners of vehicle simultaneously and to the same level. I used 4 jack stands with a hydraulic jack for lifting.

3/8" drive socket wrench.
15/16" socket for removing drain plug.
10mm socket for removing belly pan bolts.
Phillips head Screwdriver for belly pan screws.

5qts ATF. I chose Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic ATF Part #788699. $6.49/qt at Advance Auto Parts. Or $20/qt for SPH-IV at the stealership.

Some kind of apparatus for refilling the Tranny through the level check hole. I have previously used a 3ft length of clear hose connected to a funnel. This time i used a bag with tubing already attached and a clamp to stop fluid flow as needed.

Procedure:

1. Raise vehicle and support all 4 corners at same level.

2. Remove belly pans under driver side to access transaxle.





At this point it should go without saying, but i'll say it anyway. DO NOT REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG UNTIL YOU ARE SURE YOU CAN OPEN THE FILL PLUG!!! For what should be obvious reasons...

3. To remove the fill plug, simply insert the 3/8" wrench driver head into the plug hole and turn anti-clockwise. Be gentle here, as this is a plastic plug.

Once you remove the fill plug, fluid will start to flow out so have a drain pan handy.

4. Remove drain plug and let fluid drain. Clean off magnet. Reinstall when complete. Find some way to measure how much fluid you drained out. I used an old 5qt motor oil jug with graduations on the side.

Your fluid will probably look much darker and less red than what came out here since this is my second drain and fill.






Pics of the plugs.







5. Add new fluid through the fill hole using whatever apparatus you've devised until fluid flows back out of the hole. Keeping track of how much fluid you've added.







6. Start vehicle and leave idling.

At this point we come to a dilemma. You can either add back in however much fluid you drained out and be done. Or you can aim to get the level correct.
My fluid level was low the first time i did this procedure as no fluid drained out of the tranny when i first opened the fill plug. I believe it was not properly filled at the stealership when they completed the TSB for a faulty shift solenoid that made the tranny drop from 6th to 4th while at freeway speeds. So i had to aim to get the level correct. Here's how:

With vehicle idling, continue to add fluid until it once again overflows. I used an infrared thermometer for this step but i've come to realize you don't really need it. Reason for the thermometer is because the fluid expands as it get hot and we want our level to be correct at the proper temp which per Hyundai is 122-140F. Both times when i have done this the correct temp was achieved when the cooling fans first turned on, so that is what i use as my guage.

Once this is achieved, reinstall the fill plug, and you're done.






A few things to nip any future questions in the bud because folks infinitely smarter than myself will post them:

Q. Hyundai states the fluid is a "lifetime" fluid and never needs to be changed, so why are you changing it?

Because it makes me sleep better at night. And because i have an understanding of how friction clutch based transaxles work, how fluids degrade over time with use, and how fluid contamination from suspended sheared off friction material can turn fluid into liquid sandpaper.

Also, i prefer synthetic lubricants. And "lifetime" is quite a subjective term. At best case it means lifetime of Hyundai's 100k powertrain warranty, which at 60k currently and 2 years into ownership i'm sure sure i'll exceed long before 10 years.

Q. Why didn't you use the fill hole on top of the tranny?

Cuz it's difficult to access without removing stuff. And i'm lazy...

Q. Won't you void your warranty since you didn't use OEM fluid.

No, if Hyundai requires me to use only their fluid, they must legally provide it to me at no cost. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

Q. Hyundai engineers know best, they designed and built the tranny after all, why would you go against their recommendations?

First because there is no harm in it for my peace of mind. And secondly because most manufacturers' like to minimize cost of ownership to make the vehicles look better on paper, this is not a new concept. Ideally, parts would fail just out of warranty necessitating replacement of the part or the entire vehicle. They are in the business of selling cars after all...

I'm sure there will be more, but those are all i can think of right now.
 
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#75 ·
Okay I'm pretty sure I got the procedures down but just had to get clarification on one thing.

So once I'm actually putting the new fluid back in. I stop adding when fluid starts pouring out of the side inspection plug?

Button it all up I'm done or do I need to start and run the vehicle to operating temp?

If I do that won't the fluid expand and really start to pour out?
 
#77 ·
Okay I'm pretty sure I got the procedures down but just had to get clarification on one thing.

So once I'm actually putting the new fluid back in. I stop adding when fluid starts pouring out of the side inspection plug?

Button it all up I'm done or do I need to start and run the vehicle to operating temp?

If I do that won't the fluid expand and really start to pour out?
Stop adding when it comes out the inspection plug. Then start it. Immediately the level will drop as it starts circulating. Let it get to operating temp, add more fluid until it starts coming out the hole, then close 'er up.
 
#76 ·
Drain your oil. refill with 3-4qt, then start engine, and with plug out of side pan and trans in "N",,, at idle, add oil slowly to trickle out the hole on the side pan..

Ideally you should inspect oil level to dribble out at 122F ATF temp according to Hyundai Motor.
 
#79 ·
For everyone's information, the link below points to a letter Ashland (Valvoline's parent company) put out that gives a more extensive list of the ATF specifications with which Valvoline MaxLife (DEX/MERC) ATF complies. The list is more extensive than that given on the product data sheet. Note that the letter says this ATF complies with Hyundai's SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, SPH-IV, and SP4-M specifications. I also added links to the product page, the PDS, and the MSDS.

The letter: http://www.valvoline.com/valint/international/english/static_document/MaxLife_ATF_Rev_2013.08.08.pdf

The product page: Valvoline.com > Products > Automatic Transmission Products > Automatic Transmission Fluid > MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF

The product data sheet: http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

The MSDS: Datasheet formats
 
#80 ·
As promised, here is the analysis of the ATF that was drained from my Sonata when I did my drain and fill. Even though they say to try 65,000 miles next time I think I'm still going to try and stick with an "around 50,000" interval.

 
#86 ·
This may sound stupid but I tried to do this today but I couldnt figure out which part is the belly pan under the car. I took off all kinds of stuff and couldnt find anything even close to what is was supossed to look like. I tried to put everything back on but one part isnt on all the way because the washers have cheap mollys on them that arent opening like they should i hope i didnt screw anything up. but can someone post a pic or something to show me what i have to take off as far as the belly pan goes? thank you
 
#87 ·
The "belly pans" referenced by veilside1 (the OP) are just the two plastic panels covering the bottom of the engine compartment. Look at veilside1's first picture, and just below and to the left of the words "drain plug," you'll see one panel sitting on the floor. You just need to remove the panel on the driver's side of the engine compartment to get to the transmission.
 
G
#89 ·
6. Start vehicle and leave idling.

At this point we come to a dilemma. You can either add back in however much fluid you drained out and be done. Or you can aim to get the level correct.
My fluid level was low the first time i did this procedure as no fluid drained out of the tranny when i first opened the fill plug.
This may have been covered in the thread and I missed it. Nevertheless:

The fact that no fluid came out the 'overflow plug' does NOT indicate that the fluid level was low. If you read the ATF level check procedure, Step 2 (step 1 is to open the eye bolt/fill plug) says:
"Add ATF SP-IV 700cc to the ATF injection hole."

It is only once that 700cc is added that the ATF should flow out the 'overflow plug' on the side of the valve body. Not every section of the SM says to remove that quantity of added ATF once you have achieved the proper level, so I agree there's a dilemma here. You can fill until it is 700cc 'over-filled' as compared to factory-fill level, or you can just replace the same amount that drained out.

I just wanted to point out the fact that no fluid coming out the overflow plug isn't inherently a problem.
 
#90 ·
I plan on doing my Drain and Fill next week and thought I'd share an idea that might make it easier for some.

I have a set of ramps. I plan to back into my garage and the pull forward up onto the ramps. The garage floor slopes down at its entrance so this should make more room under the car. On the rear I will use a scissor jack on each side. (need 2 of them). With a bubble level will open the door and set it on side molding and bring the rear up until its perfectly level with the front. Thought this might be easier for those who had some ramps.
 
#94 ·
I tried to do this today. I drained out almost 5 quarts of ATF and it was very brown. This is where Im confused, when I added I did it until it came out of the level check hole. After that I turned the car on for a few minutes and then added more in until it came out that hole again. I jacked the car up and filled the plug in and there was a decent amount in the drain pan I had filled with the excess. After putting that into a container I realized that I had added 5 quarts back and yet 2 of them came out of the fill hole when adding the 5 quarts so essentially I added 3 quarts back. I tried to put some more back in the top and it basicallly just comes out and overflows. the fill valve is back in but I dont understand why it is doing this if I drained out 5 to begin with and I know only 3 are back in. Can someone please help me I do not want to damage my car and I want to make sure I have enough fluid. Thank you
 
#95 ·
You need to run it more than a few minutes. It needs to be at operating temperature. I believe the OP said this was about when the radiator fan came on. I let mine run for at least 15 min. Once it's hot, add fluid until it comes back out the side hole, (car level of course) and close 'er up.
 
#97 ·
Oh this might be a better question.

I have my vehicle up and level. When I opened the inspection port maybe a half a quart came draining out. After it stopped I put the plug back in and positioned the same catch can to capture the rest of it from the drain plug.

I measured the amount that came out. Its about 4 quarts. Instead of messing around now with adding fluid in and waiting for it to spill over and then idling the car for 15mins to add more. Can't I just lower the back of the car down all the way and pour in 4 qts from the top?

The OP of this thread mentioned he had NO Fluid come out of his inspection port indicating he was factory low.

As long as you have some spilling out on level ground would seem to indicate you can just pour whatever came back out and not worry about the correct level because obviously your car was filled correctly. Hope that makes sense


thx.
 
#98 ·
I measured the amount that came out. Its about 4 quarts. Instead of messing around now with adding fluid in and waiting for it to spill over and then idling the car for 15mins to add more. Can't I just lower the back of the car down all the way and pour in 4 qts from the top?
I suppose you could do it this way. Personally, I don't see what's so difficult about doing it the way the manual directs:

1) Car level.
2) Engine idling at operating temperature.
3) Add fluid until it starts to come out side hole.
4) Close it up and you're done.
 
#99 ·
well for me was getting it absolutely level. My OCD started kicking in and I kept 2nd guessing myself as to if it was really level or not. My garage floor slopes back so it was hard to measure from the ground up to the lower rocker panel to make sure it was exact all the way around. LOL. I did drain it level though and 4 quarts was spot on. I added 4 quarts back in and I think if I had left it half ass level that it would have started pouring out before the full 4 quarts were back in. Especially with the fact that some started draining right out when I opened the inspection port.
 
#100 ·
To determine level, I used, well, a level. My garage floor is level. So with the car in the garage, I used my level on the rocker panel to see where the bubble sat. Then when I put the car on ramps in my sloped driveway, I made sure the bubble lined up to what I previously measured. Being off a few degrees is negligible IMO.
 
#101 ·
Yeah I could have certainly planned the leveling part a little better. Oh well maybe next time but for now at least I know the nasty 4 quarts that came out was replaced with 4 exact quarts of new fluid.

I think anyone that starts off with NO fluid coming out of the inspection port with the car level should consider that the factory may have never topped it off correctly just like the OP of this thread. In that case you will definitely be putting in more than what came out since you were a little short to begin with.
 
#103 ·
I think its best to heat it up and do it. With the car off, I could only get in 3 quarts and then it started to come out the side. When I heated it up I put in almost another quart until it started to come out of the side. You can put all 4 quarts in at one time but wont you lose a good amount of if through the side hole by the time it all gets in? Chances are you will be back around 3 quarts total by that time haha. I think its best to just heat it up for like 20 mins and then add it till it comes out and seal it and ensure that you have a sufficient amount
 
#105 ·
I've worried about this "sealed unit" myself...and in fact called the dealer yesterday, and apparently they will do this for $140.00

I'm not the do it yourself kind of guy I used to be..and these days I rather sit in the customer lounge and play online. lol

nonetheless, to the OP...nice work, and a great tutorial.
 
#109 ·
Great write-up and contributions. I bought a 2011 Sonata a few days ago with 60k miles and am planning on a drain and refill. I happen to have a Mity-Vac sitting around... Does anyone know if it is possible to push the tube from the top fill hole to the bottom of the pan?

I know I should take the drain plug out and clean off the magnet anyway...

I would also like to use the best ATF for the tranny. I am leaning toward Valvoline MaxLife unless someone convinces me otherwise. Thanks.
 
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