Correct grade motor oil - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Correct grade motor oil

I have a 2005 2.4L Hyundai Sonata. It has almost 90,000 miles. What weight oil should I be using?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:16 PM
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Huge issue here, "most" would say 5W30 full synthetic and an OEM filter.

"If a man says something in the woods, and a woman isn't there to hear it, is he still wrong?"
Miles on her 156,000

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:02 PM
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Congratulations, you made it to 90k so continue using whatever you have been using and consider yourself very lucky to have it made it this far!

If you still want oil and filter advice, consider 5w30 synthetic, a splash of moly/zddp oil additive, and a wix oil filter. OEM filters are notoriously bad for filtering out the smaller particles that are associated with engine wear but with that said, they do flow great!

If you want to try something different, may I suggest Mobil1 0w40 oil and a Wix filter. Has higher HTHS and should reduce any issue you have with oil consumption and provides great engine protection and longer oil life.

Last edited by Drewd; 04-18-2019 at 10:18 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dfigueroa View Post
I have a 2005 2.4L Hyundai Sonata. It has almost 90,000 miles. What weight oil should I be using?
Read the owners manual and then the weather report. If you still need help, post a picture of your owners manual oil grade recommendation page and provide your location and someone here will help you figure it out.

Motto for advice giving on a forum: You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

Sad country is where most neutered men can't change a tire or use a tire PSI gauge, can't check their engine oil or even pop their hood.

TrollBots are everywhere. Paid trolls are easy to spot in the 'off topic' forums everywhere.

Those who say it cannot be done, should not interrupt the person doing it.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 03:59 PM
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Use 5w-20 or 5w/30 SJ/SL or above, just regular old dino oil, anything that is on sale and any oil filter.
On our '08 that the daughter is using, life of 5-20 any oil, any filter, 7,500 mile changes and will hit 300,000 miles this year. Clean as a wistle inside.


Here's a picture of the engine when I replaced the valve cover gasket at 290,000 miles:

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 09:44 PM
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Here we go!! This is a subject that really gets people super heated... Let the "experts" all chime in and have their time in the light.

Just read your owners manual. Don't heed people who say OEM filters are not good. WIX filters are OK, not the greatest. Honestly you would be fine running supertech oil and filters. At the very least just make sure it has an anti drainback valve. Prevents that awful clatter at startup. Plenty of people who run the cheapest possible will see over 200k on the clock. Same with people who run the most expensive stuff. If you were to send in your oil for analysis after use to a lab you would NOT see a difference in wear or anything between super cheap and super expensive oils. These engines are not exactly high performance and don't see high stress.
As someone stated a little ZDDP won't hurt. But it won't help. These are not flat tappet engines. So if you like spending money go ahead and get that.

I personally run 0 40 with the OEM filter change every 5k. I do almost nothing but highway driving.

2005 Sonata w/ 5 speed
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:00 PM
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If the OP used a better oil, his oil gasket would have lasted longer ;-)

On a more serious note, how can you state that OEM filters are good?
OEM Efficiency Ratio~ 99.2% @ 50 UM is no better than a typical spaghetti strainer.

Wix: 99% at 21 microns for the standard filters, and 99% at 35 microns for their XP filters.
Fram Ultra Guard filter, it is 99 percent efficient at 20 microns. At 10 microns its 94 percent efficient.

Smaller wear molecules apparently can be hard on soft metals found in bearings. I used an OEM filter religiously prior to my engine failure in my 2.0T and won't be using them anymore except under certain circumstances. Seems like the casting sand left in the block after the manufacturing process was smaller than 50 microns which lead to my engine experiencing bearing failure.

I have almost a dozen OEM filters left that I purchased when I acquired my Santa Fe. My new Elantra uses the same oil filter size. Both vehicles startup clatter has been eliminated by using non-OEM filters such as Wix, Napa Gold, or Fram's Ultraguard. Don't care for startup clatter which is why I don't plan on using OEM oil filters anymore but will put an OEM filter on vehicle anytime it is in the shop for an type of warranty work.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:40 PM
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Both vehicles startup clatter has been eliminated by using non-OEM filters such as Wix, Napa Gold, or Fram's Ultraguard. Don't care for startup clatter which is why I don't plan on using OEM oil filters anymore but will put an OEM filter on vehicle anytime it is in the shop for an type of warranty work.
Please explain how better filtering can quiet start-up clatter...you would think it would make it louder?

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Miles on her 156,000
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:56 PM
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Please explain how better filtering can quiet start-up clatter...you would think it would make it louder?
I didn't state that better filtering eliminated start up noise. The lack of start up valve train noise and better filtering is why I use non-OEM filters.

You can continue using whatever your service tech uses for an oil filter but I was skeptical at first and appreciate less clatter at startup with non-OEM filter versus OEM filters.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 01:45 AM
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Please explain how better filtering can quiet start-up clatter...you would think it would make it louder?

It is the anti drainback valve that eliminates start up clatter. The clatter is caused by no oil getting to the valve train for a moment/lifter bleed down.

I have no idea why I am getting myself involved in this other than to say pretty much just ignore about 99% of what people throw out on this subject. It's all based on anecdotal evidence/armchair expertise. Unless you work for API, an oil company as an engineer, or an engine maker as an engineer dealing in someway with lubrication and filtration you/we pretty much know next to nothing in the grand scheme.

Best advice anyone can give you: Follow manufacturer recommendations
unless this is a "Built" engine. That is the single best piece of advice anyone here can give you. Of course almost no one will do that because they know everything.

The best (real) mechanics and engineer/mechanics will tell you the exact thing I and a couple others have told you.

2005 Sonata w/ 5 speed
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