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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brrr! It's not even THAT cold here in the Midwest yet, but I gave a shake to my unopened container of Mobil 1 5W-30 and noticed how thick it seems even in only 18 degree (F) temps in my garage.

Hyundai specifies 5W-20 or 5W-30, but obviously 0W-20 and 0W-30 would flow easier upon cold startup, while still maintaining the necessary 20 or 30 spec once the engine gets hot.

Anyone know why we aren't supposed to use the 0W oils? Wouldn't that be a good thing for ice cold starts?
 

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QUOTE (Klooks Kleek @ Dec 8 2010, 03:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=377996
Brrr! It's not even THAT cold here in the Midwest yet, but I gave a shake to my unopened container of Mobil 1 5W-30 and noticed how thick it seems even in only 18 degree (F) temps in my garage.

Hyundai specifies 5W-20 or 5W-30, but obviously 0W-20 and 0W-30 would flow easier upon cold startup, while still maintaining the necessary 20 or 30 spec once the engine gets hot.

Anyone know why we aren't supposed to use the 0W oils? Wouldn't that be a good thing for ice cold starts?
It would, but when your engine fully heats up, different parts inside the engine still heat up to several hundred degrees like in the summer. I think the car companies are more concerned with protection when the engine is running than the first few minutes when its still cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Mike Eckman @ Dec 8 2010, 04:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=378002
It would, but when your engine fully heats up, different parts inside the engine still heat up to several hundred degrees like in the summer. I think the car companies are more concerned with protection when the engine is running than the first few minutes when its still cold.

But Mike, isn't that what the SECOND number in any multi-viscosity oil refers to--the hot temps?

Meaning, 0W-30 and 5W-30 protect the same on the HOT end (the "30" part).
 

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If engine protection was purely a function of how quickly the oil flowed at cold temperatures, then Hyundai would fill every crankcase with washer fluid, or possibly helium gas. But it's not so simple; the engine parts still need some cushioning between them. I'm guessing that Hyundai simply doesn't have enough experience with 0w20 yet to know if it's a wise trade-off for its engines.

Edit: Some say that 0w20 doesn't perform identically to 5w20 at operating temperature any more than an all-season tire performs identically to a snow tire in winter. Supposedly the wider viscosity range involves some compromise at the extreme. Who knows?
 

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I'm new to this forum , but I couldn't resist jumping in on this topic.

In warranty you pretty much need to stick to what the dealers want, or risk no coverage.

But the SAE rating being 0F for the first viscosity number and 100F for the second number on multy weight oil, you could use the 0W grades safely IMO.

The concern might be itf you head for Florida for a holiday and forget about what oil you are running.
The thinnner oils apparently help with better fuel economy numbers.
The thermostat controls the engine operating temerature quite closely, so damage from the oil thinning out too much isn't likely.

I'm running 0W40 Amsoil in my Honda ATV right now , and it seems to shift and run better.
But $12 per liter isn't cheap oil either.
 

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Just so you aren't mislead about 0w30, I've used Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my Toyota for 5 years, it's clearly a winner.

At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means 0w30 Castrol Syntec will still flow at cold temps.

At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around .

That said please remember this is not a thin oil as what most think.
 

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QUOTE (Klooks Kleek @ Dec 8 2010, 04:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=378009
But Mike, isn't that what the SECOND number in any multi-viscosity oil refers to--the hot temps?

Meaning, 0W-30 and 5W-30 protect the same on the HOT end (the "30" part).
You got me.. I wasnt thinking when I made my post.

Who knows why they dont recommend it. Ive found that a huge part of the automotive industry (especially dealers) are stuck in the past with antiquated beliefs about oil, hence the "dealer recommended" 3000 mile oil change interval.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (FRiZzO @ Dec 11 2010, 01:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=378803
Just so you aren't mislead about 0w30, I've used Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my Toyota for 5 years, it's clearly a winner.

At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means 0w30 Castrol Syntec will still flow at cold temps.

At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around .

That said please remember this is not a thin oil as what most think.

FriZzo, I have heard many good things about the German Castrol 0W-30, but as a DIYer who keeps receipts in case of warranty claim, I can't buy it because 0W-30 is not approved by Hyundai and the brand/product name is printed right on the reciept. Darn.
 

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QUOTE (FRiZzO @ Dec 11 2010, 10:05 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=378803
Just so you aren't mislead about 0w30, I've used Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my Toyota for 5 years, it's clearly a winner.

At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means 0w30 Castrol Syntec will still flow at cold temps.

At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around .

That said please remember this is not a thin oil as what most think.
0W-30 is not a 30 weight oil, it is a zero weight. That's what 0W means. Be careful, this weight of oil may work, but be assured that Hyundai will void your warranty coverage if an engine-wear related claim is made.
Hyundai chose 5W as a base oil weight because the engine's clearances (allowances is actually the correct term) are wider than 0 weight can support. Other posters are worried about damaging their engines by using a K&N air filter... this is magnitudes greater risk; catastrophic engine failure, versus increased engine wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
QUOTE (Scott2011 @ Dec 11 2010, 08:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=378928
0W-30 is not a 30 weight oil, it is a zero weight. That's what 0W means. Be careful, this weight of oil may work, but be assured that Hyundai will void your warranty coverage if an engine-wear related claim is made.
Hyundai chose 5W as a base oil weight because the engine's clearances (allowances is actually the correct term) are wider than 0 weight can support. Other posters are worried about damaging their engines by using a K&N air filter... this is magnitudes greater risk; catastrophic engine failure, versus increased engine wear.

Well...it's a multi-viscosity oil, which in the case of 0-30 means that it has the characteristics of a 0 weight oil upon cold starts and the characteristics of a 30 weight oil when engine is at operating temperature.
 
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Just to be clear, the "W" does _not_ mean 'weight.' Weight is a term that I think lots of us use regarding engine oil, but it's improper. The correct term is "grade." See this SAE page for a discussion of the evolution of engine oil grades (established by SAE J300), both summer and Winter (hint):
http://www.sae.org/news/releases/rightoil.htm
 

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There would technically be no reason a 0W30 or 0W20 would not work. The upper number is more the limiting factor. The warranty would be the issue, period. The old 10W40 was pretty much done away with because the additives for the 30 point spread caused sticking valves and became unpopular. The difference though between a 5 and a 0 W weight would be small except in extreme cold. The reason you see 20 as a max now is often for the very very small increase in gas mileage, if its an option, 30 would be better in summer.
 
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I'm glad everyone is concerned with warranty, because that means we're doing our maintenance. I don't believe it would be legal under MMWA and the Hyundai materials and workmanship warranty to deny warranty coverage on the basis of use of 0W30 or 0W20 instead of the 5W20, 5W30, or 10W30 specified in the OM. I believe the legal requirement under MMWA and the Hyundai materials and workmanship warranty would be that Hyundai would have to prove that whatever you used caused the failure. Frankly, they don't have a prayer of proving that, IMO, because there's nothing deficient in any way about the 0W versions of the 5Wxx or 10Wxx grades we use. Hyundai would have H311 of a time trying to prove that what you used was 0W vs. 5W anyway.

Having said that, I plan to use 5W20 in our Sonata. I have 5 gallons of the stuff on the way. OTOH, the 5W20 I'll be using has better cold-pumping and cold-flow properties than almost any 0Wxx fluid I know of. :) You can't tell it from the product data sheet, though. :( It's independent testing that shows just how good the stuff is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (Sonny Jim @ Dec 12 2010, 04:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=379134
Hyundai would have H311 of a time trying to prove that what you used was 0W vs. 5W anyway.

Having said that, I plan to use 5W20 in our Sonata. I have 5 gallons of the stuff on the way. OTOH, the 5W20 I'll be using has better cold-pumping and cold-flow properties than almost any 0Wxx fluid I know of. :) You can't tell it from the product data sheet, though. :( It's independent testing that shows just how good the stuff is.

Us DIY'ers keep receipts of our oil purchases, and it says right on the receipt the full name of the product. When I last bought Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended, it said exactly that on the cash register printout.

Regarding the mystery oil you alluded to, I'll bite. Are you referring to Amsoil?
 
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Well, sometimes my receipts show the precise oil I purchased, but sometimes they don't. Either way, though, it's on Hyundai to prove what I didn't do, not on me to prove what I did do. I keep the Hyundai owner section of the website up to date with everything I do, and my UOAs will back up what I'm doing, so no manufacturer has a prayer of making a claim of my deficiency stick.

No, I'm not an Amsoil guy. :) Their product is alright, but it doesn't show me anything that would make it worth the price to me. I use oil from a company called Renewable Lube (add .com to get their website, which is fairly crappy). I use it in my personal vehicles, and we also use it in the fleet at work. I like it! It can be quite pricey when you add in shipping, unfortunately. I'm in a position to be able to share freight with others, so that helps.

P.S. Apart from being a customer, I have no connection to the company whatsoever, nor do I get anything for liking it. :)
 
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