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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im replacing the RR door lock actuator and everything was actually really easy except for the electrical connector.

The wiring loop has a 5 pin female connector and the actuator has a male 4 pin (or blade) connection. Does anyone know if its possible to connect the two?

Im guessing the 5 pin has connections for power (+,-), one common, one for opening and one for closing. Can i just connect the common to the negative to reduce it to 4?

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram?

As an aside i should have purchased the 814202B010 part - instead i got 814202B000 (which from what i can tell is identical except for the electrical connector.
 

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As an aside i should have purchased the 814202B010 part - instead i got 814202B000 (which from what i can tell is identical except for the electrical connector.
The reason for the different electrical connector is the two actuators are electrically different. My guess is the original one has additional wiring for a deadlock system and the new one doesn't. Is there a reason you didn't just buy the correct one for the car?

You could probably make the new one work but it obviously wont deadlock, assuming I'm right about the reason for the additional wiring on the original. But it would be a much simpler job if you just bought the correct part.
 

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I had some info on the Power Locks for a 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L and attached those pictures - I hope they are helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I'll look into that.

Is there a reason you didn't just buy the correct one for the car?
basically price, i paid $50 incl shipping for this part and the other part around here costs anywhere between $150 - $400, so i thought id at least try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for this - unfortunately it appears this model is different. it has a 7 pin connector (only 5 are used)
 

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basically price, i paid $50 incl shipping for this part and the other part around here costs anywhere between $150 - $400, so i thought id at least try it.
WOW...that's quite a difference in price. I don't blame you for trying the cheaper option.

As I said, you could probably make it work but you'd need to cut the harness connector off then identify the two wires that control the lock/unlock motor, which is just a simple voltage measurement. The motor control wires will connect to the larger two terminals on the new actuator and the two thin wires will connect to the smaller two. You just wouldn't connect the extra wire that's left over.

I think I'd rather just buy the correct part though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
awesome, thanks so much for the advice. is there any particular reason for removing the existing harness, or is that just because its easier to connect up the new wiring? im thinking i might just do this as a temporary option until i track down the correct part from a scrap yard or something.
 

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Why don't you go 1 step further and open up the actuator assembly and just replace the motor inside. Its usually the only thing that's broken there. I have replaced those door lock actuator motors and it works great. They are mabuchi FC-280-PC-22125 - ebay. If you did not damage the assembly when pulling it out, and you can somehow seal it back shut once you change out the motor then it should work. This way you keep everything oem including the wiring. Don't worry about breaking a few plastic tabs. So long you can put it back together and keep it shut then it should work.
 

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is there any particular reason for removing the existing harness.
From your photo, it looks like your harness connector is different from the connector on the new actuator. The cavities on the harness connector all look to be the same size but the terminals on the actuator are different sizes. Also there are 7 cavities on the harness connector but the new actuator looks like it's harness connector will only have 6, and that seems to be what is shown in the diagrams posted by scknf too.

But if the harness connect will plug into the new actuator you don't need to cut the wires. But you will need to extract them from the connector so they can be repositioned to the correct cavities to align with the terminals on the new actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
From your photo, it looks like your harness connector is different from the connector on the new actuator.
yep youre correct the two connectors are different. i think i was just trying to understand if there was some special setup inside the harness that might affect the rewiring. i was going to try and recreate some pin connectors so i could plug the new wires into the old harness (saves having to reconnect the old wires if i get the correct part).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Why don't you go 1 step further and open up the actuator assembly and just replace the motor inside. Its usually the only thing that's broken there.
great idea - from an initial glance it just looked a sealed assembly but if its possible to do that then thatd be perfect :) ill take another look at it.

just fyi i dont think its the motor as it still works 50% of the time. it actually sounds like one of the cogs, you can hear it grinding a little when you lock the car.
 

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Its the motor. After a while it just gets tired and does not turn as strong. Its $10 for 4 pieces on ebay - coming from China. Or 5 bucks a piece. Open it up carefully, then you will see which length of the shaft you'll need. 10 or 20mm. There will be a gear attached to it. Its either easy to come off or tight fitted. If the later, put some heat and it should come off easily. Slide the gear to the new motor shaft- use some jb weld. Score the shaft a bit with a cutter.

Even better, you can just open up the new assembly you got and get the motor from there. No more waiting needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks - ill probably try replacing the main motor and see how that goes. in the new part (814202B000) theres only one motor so like was mentioned by someone else, the other smaller motor (in 814202B010) is probably a deadlock motor.

i think ive learned that even with very similar parts there are enough differences to make it next to impossible to replace one with the other!

appreciate everyones advice!
 

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Why don't you go 1 step further and open up the actuator assembly and just replace the motor inside. Its usually the only thing that's broken there. I have replaced those door lock actuator motors and it works great. They are mabuchi FC-280-PC-22125 - ebay. If you did not damage the assembly when pulling it out, and you can somehow seal it back shut once you change out the motor then it should work. This way you keep everything oem including the wiring. Don't worry about breaking a few plastic tabs. So long you can put it back together and keep it shut then it should work.
Hi Nitely,
I am in the UK and came across the same issue with ordering the non deadlock version. I am wanting to open up the actuator and repair the motors etc.
Is it possible to show on the picture where abouts the motors are located, as I am thinking just to cut open that portion of the sealed unit.

Thanks for any help in advance
 

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Hi All,

I have just had the rear left door lock actuator replaced on my Hyundai Santa Fe CM. Many European Santa Fe's have a deadlock system, in which case the part number for the rear left actuator is 81410-2B010. For the non-deadlock version, the part number is 81410-2B000. The 81410-2B010 version is ca. £100 more expensive than the 81410-2B000 in the UK (£325 against £225) and is far more difficult to source. Fortunately, I managed to source one a used one on Facebook. If you want to ascertain whether a donor Santa Fe has a deadlock, and you can find out the VIN number, have a look at:

https://hyundai.7zap.com/en/eur/vin/[insert vin number]/
 
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