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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

anybody has a wiring diagram for the 2007 Santa Fe with the 2.7l V6 engine?

I'm looking for an underhood source for +12V. Not a "hot at any time" source, but one powering only on key ON, such as accessories, radio or fuel pump.

I need to tap to feed an oxygen sensor simulator.

Thanks!
 

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I assume you have removed the O2 sensor, so why not use the power supply that would normally power the O2 sensor heater circuit?
It's the terminal on the O2 sensor connector that has 12V on it when the ignition is on.
 

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I think all you need to do is link the red wire to which ever one of the simulators heater wires is being connected to the heater 12V supply.
I can't think of any reason why you'd need to run an extra wire to a separate ignition source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
That being said, yes, that a nice idea, and this will avoid me having to tap - what I usually don't like- and use a source which would be left useless.
I will dig deeper and ask the technical support if I can do so °°)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are the replies to my questions from the tech support:

It says the simulator needs to be connected to a +12V source, ignition feeded.
so why not use the power supply that would normally power the O2 sensor heater circuit?
Because it’d be a crucial error to load the ECU with any other circuit that is tied to the ECU. As a rule of thumb, never do that, not to mention that several ECU’s feature heater current control would be spoiled in a wink.

It's the terminal on the O2 sensor connector that has 12V on it when the ignition is on.
Terminal prongs has function, they are not powered so you can’t avoid drive the red hot wire to an ignition feed contact.

Can I do that or would you recommend I use a separate igniton feed source?
Actually there is no preference for ignition feed. Please find an appropriate ignition feed power on either the consumer like the radio, wiper, or fuel pump activated by the ignition key, or tap into the main fuse box.
 

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Well, clearly they don't like the idea but I personally can't think why it would cause a problem. The O2 heater power supply on Hyundai engines doesn't come from the ECU, it comes from the engine control relay....see diagram below.
I also had a little chuckle at "Terminal prongs has function, they are not powered". The heater power supply terminal obviously is powered. It's a power supply after all.




 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
AUTOSPARK;5780551 I also had a little chuckle at "[FONT=Verdana said:
Terminal prongs has function, they are not powered". The heater power supply terminal obviously is powered. It's a power supply after all.[/FONT]
Yes, I second that :|
and yes, this diagram clearly shows the ECM itself doesn't feed the sensor heater, but triggers a relay which feeds the sensor then.

I'll talk to him again, let's see what he answers ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's what he says about the diagram:

This is an internal ECU diagram. This is a micro-relay implemented within the ECU and it is designed for certain current. If you dont want to mess up the ECU don't take this route.


 

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This is an internal ECU diagram.
Err...no it isn't.

matuva said:
This is a micro-relay implemented within the ECU
Eh?

And this is the tech support guy from the company that manufacture the simulator? I don't have too much faith in their product when the tech support can't even read the engine wiring schematics.

Anyway, it's up to you how you want to wire your simulator, but if someone asked me to fit one I would connect the simulator power supply to the sensor's heater power supply. Nothing that tech support has said makes me doubt that it will work. In fact, nothing that tech support said has made any sense at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The heater of an O² sensor is just a kind of load resistor isn't it? A kind of device which needs a certain amount of Amps?

In that case, the relay should be able to afford some current drawing I believe, what a micro relay cant do, right?
 

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The heater of an O² sensor is just a kind of load resistor isn't it? A kind of device which needs a certain amount of Amps?
Yes.

matuva said:
In that case, the relay should be able to afford some current drawing I believe, what a micro relay cant do, right?
Yes.

And the simulator is supposed to electrically look just like the sensor in order to fool the ECU, so it shouldn't be placing any significant additional load to the circuit anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, so, I don't see any reason why not use the stock plug to connect the +12V feed wire of the simulator :huh:

As I told the tech guy, I don't wish to be polemical or question his technological knowledge, but I am especially curious by nature, and I agree with Autospark on the reading of the diagram.
So, I just don't understand why the stock power feed of the heater can't be used to power the simulator...:unsure:
 

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So, I just don't understand why the stock power feed of the heater can't be used to power the simulator...:unsure:
Well, that makes two of us.

So, we've talked about the supply side of the simulator but I thought it would be worth mentioning the ground side too just for clarity. You will need to connect the simulator's black wire to a good ground....ie, a convenient bolt somewhere on the engine or car body. Don't connect the black wire to any of the wires in the O2 sensor harness. And don't forget to fit the 5A fuse inline with the simulator's red wire too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Finally got time to install this simulator.

Even though I still don't understand why I couldn't use the heater power supply, I did how he recommended me to do: I picked up a " key ON +12 Volts" source at the fuel relay, wire the power supply of the simulator on it, ground straight to the battery, and connected the all things in place of the Sensor 2 Bank 1.

No more CEL ON :clap::banana:

:harhar: Good Bye P0420

I consider buying a second one to fool the sensor 2 on Bank 2, and then, it will be time to think about performance headers... >:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Paid $109.00 with free shipping at Magnumtuning.com (item 661)

You don't have to plug it to the CAT. In fact, the stock sensor is just left as is, disconnected. You connect the device in place of the O² sensor, and it will cheat the ECM, simulating a good working O² sensor (or CAT)
 

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Great to hear the simulator got rid of the code.
But you should have rebelled and wired it my way, then you could tell the tech guy he's full of it....or tell me if it didn't work :laugh:
 
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