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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gang, I screwed up. I was thinking of another mod when I incorrectly listed the wire colors in the Map Light Harness' Mate-N-Lok connector. I should have said: "RED wire" and "YELLOW wire with Black Stripe." These are the two wires you will need to run your circuit for lighting under the footwells below the dash.

Note: a twisted pair from Cat-5 cable or two wires from a spool of telephone jack wiring works really well. Just strip off the outside insulating jacket to remove your wires. Reason for using this wire? Very small, semi-rigid, single strand copper, easy to hide in small crevices, cracks, etc. Simce LED's use very little amperage, no worries about overheating and shorting out. Besides, they're not on for long...only when the door opens. Timer will turn them off in about a half-minute. Or if you're starting the car.

From the connector, run above the headliner and down the A-pillar. Continue behind the rubber seal downward and behind the kick plate.

Tie the leads to the LED strip. If they don't illuminate (door open), reverse the leads.

I ran mine behind the console and tied the passenger LED strip to the leads from the roof. Using a cigarette lighter, I burned away a small piece of the insulation and tied the driver's LED strip to these two wires.

Should work fine. Just remember: RED WIRE. YELLOW WIRE/Black Stripe. Hope this helps.

Apologies.
 
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Good idea on the wire choice. Wouldn't have thought about using that.
I'll be looking into putting these lights in my cars. Ain't nothing wrong with making it nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
these are the ones that are connecto the domes correct?
Yes, connected to the wires on the harness that supplies power to the two map lights above your rearview mirror. Open the door/unlock with the FOB and they ramp up to full power. Get in, close the door and turn on the ignition: they fade out.

Another scenario: unlock the door with the FOB but don't open the door and they will fade out with the interior lights in about 27-30 seconds.

Yet another: open the door and leave it open, they stay on as long as the door remains open.

Basically, for simplification: whenever the map lights come on, the LED's come on. Whenever the map lights dim, the LED's dim.

The best part: the map lights still operate independently if you're stopped and manually push them on to see something inside. The LED's, however, will stay off.

It's a great "courtesy" light mod. Adds ambiance inside. If you want them on all the time, you'll need to wire them in a different fashion. Hope this helps.
 

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Nice...

I like the independent functioning of the lights. Kind of adds a custom feature to the custom feature. Nice job Rich!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I like the independent functioning of the lights. Kind of adds a custom feature to the custom feature. Nice job Rich!
Thanks! It's best of both world's, IMO. It is the bomb. You do it, you'll agree!

In the meanwhe, let the kids wire a switch so they can leave them on 24/7. LOL I'm getting too old for that, but I understand the desire. I was young once.
 

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Which color leds did you use. It seems blue to be the most popular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went with the blue, Curtis. Really accentuates the black interior. Only problem is this: if there's a small lightly colored stone, piece of paper, anything light, these blue LED's will dang sure reveal them. Almost has a black light quality to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, how many of you guys rushing around, ordering LED's, to be the first to do this to your ride?
 

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Using a cigarette lighter, I burned away a small piece of the insulation and tied the driver's LED strip to these two wires.
The ingenuity of our members who have untold years of knowledge, experience, comprehension of complex issues and problem solving skills on this forum never ceases to amaze me.:thumbsup:

He's our Okie and no one else can have him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
LMAO, son. Thanks for the props. But compared to the rest, I'm a novice at this stuff. But if you take a small area of my expertise, a portion of yours, and everyone else's on here, combine that knowledge, and you've got a fairly formidable group to draw knowledge from. ;)

I still subscribe to the KISS method: "keep it simple stupid." Too much complication, otherwise.

Oh, one more thing: ain't any other forums that would have me. You guys are the outliers in the equation. LOL
 

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ote: a twisted pair from Cat-5 cable or two wires from a spool of telephone jack wiring works really well. Just strip off the outside insulating jacket to remove your wires. Reason for using this wire? Very small, semi-rigid, single strand copper, easy to hide in small crevices, cracks, etc. Simce LED's use very little amperage, no worries about overheating and shorting out
A good wire choice indeed.... In normal telephony use, it will handle 48VDC. I've used the gray 4 conductor "Quad" for so many things I lost track. (from an old retired telephone man).....
 

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LOL torn between
LED B3 Blue 2X 12" Interior Strip Footwell Lights Under Dash Bulb SMD Exterior B | eBay

and these which have a controller, which i would not use, just going to hook them up to the dome lights
4pc Blue LED Interior Footwell Underdash Lighting Kit | eBay
?
what do you think Mr Led Man ?:p
Well the second set I've had those before and they were nice quality. Plus it comes with a switch so depending how you wire it, you can turn them on and off with the switch module. I think that's what I'm going to buy.

I want to do it how Okie did it but I really don't want to pull my A-pillar off again. When I pulled it off for my homelink mirror install, the dealer recommended to cut the latch that catches and they gave me another one. So I decided Okies style for his lights is how I want mine. I looked under my dash and there are sooo many wires. Surely one of them deals with the map lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
LOL torn between
LED B3 Blue 2X 12" Interior Strip Footwell Lights Under Dash Bulb SMD Exterior B | eBay

and these which have a controller, which i would not use, just going to hook them up to the dome lights
4pc Blue LED Interior Footwell Underdash Lighting Kit | eBay
?
what do you think Mr Led Man ?:p
I like the simple 12 LED without the controller. But that's because I have no desires to control them. And they are less expensive. I'd buy 2, put `em in, and forget it. BTW, my interior looks exactly like the one pictured when I get into the car in the evening. If you're wearing white socks, you'll sure as heck know it. Or dust on your mats, too, LOL. If you're not in a big rush, you can get two 12 LED strips for 1/2 what the seller is asking...AND free shipping. Guess where he's getting his? Took about 2-3 weeks each time I ordered various LED's off eBay (China). But I'm old, I've got time. "Maybe." LOL

I want to do it how Okie did it but I really don't want to pull my A-pillar off again. When I pulled it off for my homelink mirror install, the dealer recommended to cut the latch that catches and they gave me another one.
No need to cut the latch. I didn't. The wires are small enough that they will slide right into the gap. Just pull the cover open a bit, not all the way off. Then it's a snap putting it back (no pun intended...well, maybe it was intended). This is the simplest way to do this mod that I know of and it not be a pain in the donkey...

K.I.S.S. method! :wink2:
 

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No need to cut the latch. I didn't. The wires are small enough that they will slide right into the gap. Just pull the cover open a bit, not all the way off. Then it's a snap putting it back (no pun intended...well, maybe it was intended). This is the simplest way to do this mod that I know of and it not be a pain in the donkey...

K.I.S.S. method! :wink2:
Oh well dang, maybe that's what I'll do then. I had to take it all the way off for the homelink install because the end of the wire with the plug was to big and I couldn't get it up through the small gap without taking the whole A-pillar off(I was using a clothes hanger). But your saying you had no trouble feeding the wires through without taking it all the way off? If so, I can do it that way. Tomorrow I'm gonna have a look a look at the map lights wire. I don't remember seeing any specific colored wires up there.

But Okie, I got those LEDs in my map and dome light. WOW. My car is daylight inside during night time haha Heck, they may even take away from the ambient lighting effect I'd like to install.
 

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I like the simple 12 LED without the controller. But that's because I have no desires to control them. And they are less expensive. I'd buy 2, put `em in, and forget it. BTW, my interior looks exactly like the one pictured when I get into the car in the evening. If you're wearing white socks, you'll sure as heck know it. Or dust on your mats, too, LOL. If you're not in a big rush, you can get two 12 LED strips for 1/2 what the seller is asking...AND free shipping. Guess where he's getting his? Took about 2-3 weeks each time I ordered various LED's off eBay (China). But I'm old, I've got time. "Maybe." LOL
:wink2:
I agree with your thoughts, I don't need the controller it would just go in the trash or lie about the garage for years "just in case"
I assume you popped out the whole map light console in the headliner to get to the connectors correct?
Oh and btw I do wear white socks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
LMAO! You'll love the white sock look under there. Your washer never got 'em that bright, to be sure.

Yes, sir, gentlemen. Pull down the sunglasses door up there between the lights. See the two Phillips screws? Out they come. Don't let them fall off the end of the screwdriver tip or they'll go somewhere you don't want them to go. (Between the console and seat, or hide on the carpet. You'll find them, but it just wasted a few minutes.) Reach in the back, grab the edge of the mount and pull down gently. The tabs are towards you. It will drop down.

Look for the harness that connects into the lights. Leave your driver's door open. This keeps the map lights on. Squeeze the connector and pull it out of the female end. You'll know it's the correct one because the lights will go out. You need to use the RED wire for one of your LED wires and the YELLOW wire with the black stripe for the other LED wire. Make the connections to suit your discriminating tastes.

There is enough gap in the front of the headliner and between it and the roof that you can tuck the wiring up towards the roof and into the top of the headliner. Just continue this until you reach the A-pillar. However you decide to do it, pull the cover open just enough to expose a gap. There's 2 snaps. Go ahead and pull. I popped the bottom first and the top last using my trim tool. Flat blade screwdriver works well. Cover the tip with tape if you are concerned with scratching the trip piece during the opening. No need to remove it.

Now run your wires down inside the opening towards the floor. When you get to the dash section on the left, run your wires behind the gasket. Continue down until you get to the kick plate. That's where I went down and made a right turn and back up behind the dash where the fuse panel is located.

The rest is pretty simple. Connect your LEDs. Plug your connector in and see if they light up. If not, reverse the led leads. CAREFUL not to let any exposed wires touch or you'll be replacing a 10 amp fuse.

Can't recommend this part enough: If you've got some telephone wire laying around, or an IT person at work, ask them for a scrap piece. Either phone wire or Cat-5 cable. Use two of the wires inside the insulation that you're gonna strip off to select your pair of wires. If using Cat-5 cable, there's a string inside with the wire wires. Pulling this string outward against the insulation will open it up like a knife thru butter. (Helpful hint from your Uncle Rich, LOL.) About 10-15 feet is all you'll need to run across, down, and over to the passenger side behind the console. (Use a coat hanger to pull the wire behind the console over to the passenger tunnel.

Don't forget to push the A-pillar trim back into place and get the trim gasket over the edge.

Once you get everything all dressed up, go pimp'n when the sun goes down. :grin: Oh, clean off the attaching areas for the LED strips with alcohol so the 3M tape will adhere adequately.

Sorry for the long-winded instructions. You should be good if you follow these. Ask, if you're stumped!
 

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LMAO! You'll love the white sock look under there. Your washer never got 'em that bright, to be sure.

Yes, sir, gentlemen. Pull down the sunglasses door up there between the lights. See the two Phillips screws? Out they come. Don't let them fall off the end of the screwdriver tip or they'll go somewhere you don't want them to go. (Between the console and seat, or hide on the carpet. You'll find them, but it just wasted a few minutes.) Reach in the back, grab the edge of the mount and pull down gently. The tabs are towards you. It will drop down.

Look for the harness that connects into the lights. Leave your driver's door open. This keeps the map lights on. Squeeze the connector and pull it out of the female end. You'll know it's the correct one because the lights will go out. You need to use the RED wire for one of your LED wires and the YELLOW wire with the black stripe for the other LED wire. Make the connections to suit your discriminating tastes.

There is enough gap in the front of the headliner and between it and the roof that you can tuck the wiring up towards the roof and into the top of the headliner. Just continue this until you reach the A-pillar. However you decide to do it, pull the cover open just enough to expose a gap. There's 2 snaps. Go ahead and pull. I popped the bottom first and the top last using my trim tool. Flat blade screwdriver works well. Cover the tip with tape if you are concerned with scratching the trip piece during the opening. No need to remove it.

Now run your wires down inside the opening towards the floor. When you get to the dash section on the left, run your wires behind the gasket. Continue down until you get to the kick plate. That's where I went down and made a right turn and back up behind the dash where the fuse panel is located.

The rest is pretty simple. Connect your LEDs. Plug your connector in and see if they light up. If not, reverse the led leads. CAREFUL not to let any exposed wires touch or you'll be replacing a 10 amp fuse.

Can't recommend this part enough: If you've got some telephone wire laying around, or an IT person at work, ask them for a scrap piece. Either phone wire or Cat-5 cable. Use two of the wires inside the insulation that you're gonna strip off to select your pair of wires. If using Cat-5 cable, there's a string inside with the wire wires. Pulling this string outward against the insulation will open it up like a knife thru butter. (Helpful hint from your Uncle Rich, LOL.) About 10-15 feet is all you'll need to run across, down, and over to the passenger side behind the console. (Use a coat hanger to pull the wire behind the console over to the passenger tunnel.

Don't forget to push the A-pillar trim back into place and get the trim gasket over the edge.

Once you get everything all dressed up, go pimp'n when the sun goes down. :grin: Oh, clean off the attaching areas for the LED strips with alcohol so the 3M tape will adhere adequately.

Sorry for the long-winded instructions. You should be good if you follow these. Ask, if you're stumped!
Rich, great write up! I can picture it all in my minds eye.
I am going to do this mod right after I fit my new aloominum pedals (see how I use the American pronunciation) which I received yesterday. They will be sparkling in that blue light lol
 
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