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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just bought a 2012 Elantra with 116k miles on it for a commuter as I drive 120 miles s day and my lifted F350 isn't exactly nice on fuel economy.

Anyway, I'm starting out with issues on the car (I knew before I bought but still want to fix them). My drivers side window works great.if I hit the unlock windows button it turns off the radio, and if i try to roll down the windows from the drivers side it also turns off the radio. In the drivers seat, both buttons for the rear windows only work on the drivers side rear window and I get a loud pop out of the drivers side front speaker.

What I know:
Battery is probably low (o'Reilly says 1 cell is dead)
Drivers front speaker does not work
Driver side rear window motor is dead / dying (it trys but I have to push the window up and down)

Any thoughts on this?
 

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I'm thinking you have a harness issue and sounds like multiple cables could be cut/chaffed and shorting and the drivers door is where I'd start. Could even be where the wires leave the door and back to the chassis. Or someone has done something dumb if they've been messing behind the trim panel. The radio may have a safety where if the output is shorted it shuts down, so maybe when you hit certain switches it's either sending a voltage or earthing out the speaker cables.

all theory of course but if you do find something interesting, post some photos(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll chase some wires down, tomorrow I'm going to take the door panel off but I'll keep you updated! Thanks for the possible issues to look at
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I did everything I know how to do. I plugged in an OBD II scanner, wasn't hopeful but I was curious and that came back empty. I pulled every single fuse in the car and in the engine bay to look at it, no fuses were bad, one didn't look the best to I replaced it with one of the spares and that still didn't change anything.

With that I pulled the drivers side door panel to look at the wires. I stripped the harness and looked at all the wires up to where it plugs into the car in the door jamb and all of them look good, no cuts or weird bends or anything so I decided to do the same on all of the door panels. 2 hours later there was no issue.

Here is some more info which leads me to believe it's a wiring issue in the car (not in the door panel but where the wires spread to the actual windows) or a short. So when I'm in the drivers seat and I push the down button for the drivers side rear, I get a thump from the drivers side speaker (visually and audibly). Furthermore, the button will only let the window go up, the passenger side rear button is the one that makes the drivers side rear go down. I tried with the individual switches in the rear seats and it's the same thing. Rolling it down I get a thump out of the speaker, and rolling it up I get a wir out of the speaker, I'll try to make a video.
 

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Back in the brain cobwebs I seem to remember that such strange symptoms could be caused by loose harness connections at the Smart Junction Box. Might be a good place to look.

 

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Check the link I supplied. It shows all locations, but basically it is the fuse box under the dash to the left of the steering column.
 

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Is the car still fitted with the original Hyundai radio?
You say the radio switches off when you operate the window lock switch. What position is the switch in when the radio switches off, lock or unlock?

It sounds to me like maybe there is maybe a grounding problem. There are a couple of things you could do to try and confirm that :
Probably the easiest thing to do if you have access to the driver's door window switch wiring is back probe the window switch ground terminal and measure the voltage while operating the passenger windows. The voltage on a ground should obviously be 0V since both probes of the voltmeter are in effect connected to the same point...so there should be no difference in voltage between the two probes. If the voltage measured on the switch ground wire (the black one) is significantly higher than 0V when you operate the passenger windows that confirms there is high resistance in the ground circuit.

The other thing you could do but is probably more work is remove the radio and check it's wiring to find out why it switches off when operating the window switch. Is the radio loosing it's ground or one of it's two power supplies? Again, a simple voltage measurement on each of the three wires should tell you what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll see what I can find, unfortunately I don't have a multimeter or even know how one works so I'll most likely end up pulling the radio to see how the wires are. When the radio gets muted, the window locks are in the unlocked position. The screen is still on and I can mess with the volume just nothing comes out of the speakers.
 

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Just a thought...if the battery is marginal might it be causing a low ECM voltage (under a load) and giving you phantom symptoms?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I'm afraid I will.

I got a new battery, old battery was rated at 610 CCA and had 474. Not too bad but I went ahead and replaced anyway since it's pretty cheap for this car. Still no fix to the issue.

I looked at the connections on the smart junction box and I pushed everything in to make sure it was fully seated and also no luck. It goes into the dealer Thursday for a recall on the yaw rate sensor (what ever that is) so I'll have them look at it too. Unfortunately they are $135/hr but oh well. The issue is just a minor inconvenience but I don't want it to be a short and burn the car down (mainly because it's parked next to my truck lol).
 

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Yeah I'm afraid I will.

I got a new battery, old battery was rated at 610 CCA and had 474. Not too bad but I went ahead and replaced anyway since it's pretty cheap for this car. Still no fix to the issue.

I looked at the connections on the smart junction box and I pushed everything in to make sure it was fully seated and also no luck. It goes into the dealer Thursday for a recall on the yaw rate sensor (what ever that is) so I'll have them look at it too. Unfortunately they are $135/hr but oh well. The issue is just a minor inconvenience but I don't want it to be a short and burn the car down (mainly because it's parked next to my truck lol).
YAW rate sensor is normally mounted in the centre of the vehicle on the hump in front of the hand brake. Essentially it detects in which direction the vehicle is accelerating in and that inputted into the ESP to then be used to determine if action is needed. So if the steering wheel was pointing straight but the vehicle was laterally accelerating it would go uh oh, I better do something and let the ECU and braking system they better sort it out.:D

May look like this

 

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Just a thought...if the battery is marginal might it be causing a low ECM voltage (under a load) and giving you phantom symptoms?
Yes, Yes, Yes to the last poster. A bad/weak battery can cause all kinds of weird effects with your electronics. Since you know a cell is bad replace the battery to see if it is the cause of your problems.
 

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Yes, Yes, Yes to the last poster.
No, No, No...that doesn't really make any sense, IMO.
If the battery has a dead cell then it needs replaced anyway but that isn't likely to be factor in his radio/window issue.
If there is enough capacity in the battery to start the engine (100+ Amps) it really has to have enough capacity to power his radio (1+ Amps).
Of course, I'm assuming here that the engine does start since he didn't say it wouldn't. And once the engine has started the bad battery isn't supplying power to anything. Supplying power then becomes the alternators job, and I'm sure he would have said if his problems all went away once the engine was running.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The old battery did start the car, sometimes it took 5 or so seconds but it did. I got the new battery today but I still have the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Took it to the dealer today, it needs a new drivers window switch and new smart junction box. I'll update with their notes when I get home
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok so the tech wrote a bunch of notes and I asked for a copy and I thought I had it since I had 2 papers but 1 was for the recall and the other was for this issue lol, all I have on this paper is "I P/B CONVERTER 7 VOLTS PRESENT SJB" but there was a lot more that had went into it. Also I have to say, i hate dealers with a passion, but these guys were freaking great!

Looking at the SJB now, is it as simple as it looks? Looks like I just need to unplug the battery, take a few bolts off and unplug a couple harnesses and put in a new box? Also is there any harm in getting a used one of Ebay minus the risk of it not working? Usually I just get new parts but I can get a used one for 20-50 and the dealer wanted a little over 600 but online I found it from Hyundai for 350. Which box should I get? I know the numbers and versions and such probably need to match mine but I'm not sure if it'd be vin locked (pardon my Ford vocab) or if I could just plug in any old SJB as long as it's the same part number.

The used one I'm looking at shows the same number over the barcode as mine (91950-3X012) however mine is H/W S/W VER: 1.4 and the one I'm looking at is 1.5, can I use that one still or do i need the 1.4?
 
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