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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe. A few weeks ago, after a hard rain (the car is parked outside), it was running terribly. It would rev up and down without pressing the gas pedal, and it would shake and lurch forward and back when trying to drive it round in the neighborhood. I was told that it might be some water in the fuel line, so I bought a fuel additive (Heet I believe). I put the product in, and drove it right away without issues. It almost seemed as if the Heet didn't even have time to work, but it worked, so no worries, right?

Well today it did the same thing. Granted, it did rain again last night, but no where near as hard as last time. I'm going to try the Heet route again before anything else, but is there something else I should look for?
 

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what engine do you have? it makes a world of difference.

2.4 - check your coils/wires.
2.7 - check the crank sensor. then coils.
3.5 - check the coils/wires.

did you get a check engine light or have it scanned for codes? there are an unlimited amount of other items that could be causing your problem, however based on the info that it seems to happen while or shortly after raining, it seems like an electrical issue or sorts.
 

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I had a throttle position sensor that was bad, but not bad enough to trip a code. Great Hyundai mechanic hooked up the laptop and had me drive while he watched the sensor readings. Sure enough, it was defective. Replaced it and have never had a problem since. I would have that looked at before I started messing with coils and plugs and wires. Do you have a miss when the motor is increasing and decreasing RPM's ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I tried it again this morning, after having the Heet sit in there for the night. No changes. I let it warm up as best it could. I tried to give it gas a few times, but it wouldn't rev past 3K rpms. One time, it actually died after giving it gas. So driving it is a no go. Which sucks, because it is throwing a code.

It is a 3.5 V6 by the way, sorry for neglecting to add that.
 

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I tried it again this morning, after having the Heet sit in there for the night. No changes. I let it warm up as best it could. I tried to give it gas a few times, but it wouldn't rev past 3K rpms. One time, it actually died after giving it gas. So driving it is a no go. Which sucks, because it is throwing a code.

It is a 3.5 V6 by the way, sorry for neglecting to add that.
I'd ask friends and neighbors if any of them have a code reader. You would be surprised how many people have them. Use your social network if you have one. Does sound like it could be a throttle position sensor though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd ask friends and neighbors if any of them have a code reader. You would be surprised how many people have them. Use your social network if you have one. Does sound like it could be a throttle position sensor though.
Turns out my wife's stepdad has one (who woulda thunk?). He's gonna run the code tonight. In the mean time, any more info on a TPS on these cars?

Also, he thought it could be something fuel relations, such as a fuel pump or a filter. What do you say about that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One more thing; when my wife's step dad went to start it, it struggled to get going, and then just clicked like it had a dead battery. Could that be the root of the issue?
 

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Turns out my wife's stepdad has one (who woulda thunk?). He's gonna run the code tonight. In the mean time, any more info on a TPS on these cars?

Also, he thought it could be something fuel relations, such as a fuel pump or a filter. What do you say about that?
Had a few fuel pump wiring issues, but not to many pumps.
 

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now we're cooking.

it's just speculation, but I'll say it's got something to do with the electronic throttle actuator. this was the early electric throttle, actually used a standard throttle cable, but the cable went to the actuator. the actuator moved based on accelerator pedal movement.

let's see the codes and well narrow it down from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well he tried to pull a code, but said that there was no codes, even thought the CEL was on? This doesn't seem right does it?

Also, the power train warranty isn't transferable is it?
 
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