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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd start an interesting discussion. So who has/will rustproof their santa fe and what product do you use? I've used Krown Rust as long as I've been driving to this date I have a 2004 grand am gt and the door seams look as good as my santa fe. My only concern is the weather stripping along the bottom of the doors reacting with the oil. I also need to research where the holes need to be drilled. That's the worst part about spraying a new car..... :'(
 

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Thought I'd start an interesting discussion. So who has/will rustproof their santa fe and what product do you use? I've used Krown Rust as long as I've been driving to this date I have a 2004 grand am gt and the door seams look as good as my santa fe. My only concern is the weather stripping along the bottom of the doors reacting with the oil. I also need to research where the holes need to be drilled. That's the worst part about spraying a new car..... :'(
I usually do it just prior to the first winter, and that's about it. I use Krown exclusively. Done that for my last three vehicles (Toyota Highlander, Subaru Outback XT, Subaru Outback) and neither had one bit of rust when I sold them after 4 years.

I do not do it every year because I don't keep my vehicles long term so don't care about warranty, and I absolutely hate the fact that on really hot days, the stuff still drips out of some holes (hatch) after 3-4 years of application.

Krown is supposed to be safe on rubber seals, but you can ask them to avoid spraying them. I note that my SF already has a few access holes with plastic caps in the door, but they will likely have to drill in the rocker panel. After a while, you don't even notice them.
 

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I would not waste your money on rustproofing. I just recently traded my wife's 2007 ford freestyle- no rust. I know Ford does not even try to sell rustproofing when you buy a new truck.I would hope Hyundai's are just as good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its not a 5 year car that has to worry about rust. This santa fe will be with our family at least 10-15 years as is apparent with my 10 year old grand am. If you're gonna trade the car every five or six years, I agree it would be a waste it won't rust in 5-6 years, but if you plan on keeping it long term, you need to do it. Consider this, how many times a year do you change your oil? 4-5? What's the cost? $40-50 per? You spend $200-250 per year on oil changes which is Maintanance. Consider the $140/year for oil spray Maintanance.
 

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I use Krown exclusively. Done that for my last three vehicles (Toyota Highlander, Subaru Outback XT, Subaru Outback) and neither had one bit of rust when I sold them after 4 years.
If you typically sell your cars after 4 years, you are wasting your money on rust proofing, regardless of how much or how little it costs. No modern car should exhibit rust after 4 years, with or without additional rust protection. In fact, Toyota and Subaru are warrantied for 5 years against rust, and Hyundai is warrantied for 7 years.
 

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If you typically sell your cars after 4 years, you are wasting your money on rust proofing, regardless of how much or how little it costs. No modern car should exhibit rust after 4 years, with or without additional rust protection. In fact, Toyota and Subaru are warrantied for 5 years against rust, and Hyundai is warrantied for 7 years.
Ah yes, the proverbial useless warranty, which usually only covers rust through the panel and even then, prove it was not a chip that an owner did not take care of.

Yes, cars should not be rusting but anyone who believes they won't, especially in my neck of the woods where my car faces heavily salted roads for the better part of 4-5 months of the year, has their head in the sand.

Prior to my being active here, I was active on Toyota forums and you would be surprised how many Highlander owners complained of rust by year 2 or 3. Not major mind you, but rust nonetheless. Was it covered? They couldn't get their dealers to pay for it.

My Highlander, even with only one application in year 1, had absolutely zero visible rust on the body when I sold it after 4 yrs. The nice thing about protection like Krown or similar products, is it gets deep into the seams INSIDE the panels, repels water and prevents that rust from inside out, which usually rears its ugly head 7-8 years down the road. Also keeps seams another hard to reach areas coated a long time.

So, 3 cars, 13 years with zero rust in this crappy winter environment salted road water gets into every nook and cranny for 4-5 months a year. Don't care what anybody says about it being a waste or not. Tell me it wasn't worth it when I sold my Highlander for $150 under asking (which I never expected). Why? Because it was in excellent condition and no rust. In fact, my Krown receipt was a selling point.

So, proof is my pudding. And based on it, darn straight I am going to spend a measly $100 over 4 years to get that kind of protection. Everyone can make their own call on whether it's worth it or not, but I know for a fact that with a rustless vehicle, I'll easily make the $100 back multiple fold in the value of my sale or trade after 4 years.

Over and out.
 

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Ah yes, the proverbial useless warranty, which usually only covers rust through the panel and even then, prove it was not a chip that an owner did not take care of.

Yes, cars should not be rusting but anyone who believes they won't, especially in my neck of the woods where my car faces heavily salted roads for the better part of 4-5 months of the year, has their head in the sand.

Prior to my being active here, I was active on Toyota forums and you would be surprised how many Highlander owners complained of rust by year 2 or 3. Not major mind you, but rust nonetheless. Was it covered? They couldn't get their dealers to pay for it.

My Highlander, even with only one application in year 1, had absolutely zero visible rust on the body when I sold it after 4 yrs. The nice thing about protection like Krown or similar products, is it gets deep into the seams INSIDE the panels, repels water and prevents that rust from inside out, which usually rears its ugly head 7-8 years down the road. Also keeps seams another hard to reach areas coated a long time.

So, 3 cars, 13 years with zero rust in this crappy winter environment salted road water gets into every nook and cranny for 4-5 months a year. Don't care what anybody says about it being a waste or not. Tell me it wasn't worth it when I sold my Highlander for $150 under asking (which I never expected). Why? Because it was in excellent condition and no rust. In fact, my Krown receipt was a selling point.

So, proof is my pudding. And based on it, darn straight I am going to spend a measly $100 over 4 years to get that kind of protection. Everyone can make their own call on whether it's worth it or not, but I know for a fact that with a rustless vehicle, I'll easily make the $100 back multiple fold in the value of my sale or trade after 4 years.

Over and out.
10-4. We each draw from our own experiences, and I personally have NEVER had an issue with rust on any vehicle I have ever owned. Of course I've lived all my adult life in in Atlanta, Miami, and now Virginia, none of which are known for their harsh climates (although the sun and salt water in Miami can be damaging if you don't follow some minimum maintenance practices). I'm also not one to keep my vehicles for a long time, so rust is never really a factor. 2-4 years is about as long as I normally keep my vehicles, and lately it's been more like 2.

I agree that $100 over the life of the car is a minimum investment, and if you feel that it adds value, and it helps you sleep at night, then it's money well spent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I spray yearly, yes I hate the mess. . I'm not relying on the hyundai or the Krown warranty to cover me years down the road. As a matter of fact I know first hand their warranties are bs. I'm relying on the product to do its job. If I kept a car only 3-4 years I would definitely not spray either. Although luck11 makes a valid argument towards 1 oil spray when it's new, although I don't agree it will provide adequate protection for many years, it's better than nothing. If whoever buys your cars doesn't spray again, it will rust, just delayed.
 

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I usually do it just prior to the first winter, and that's about it. I use Krown exclusively. Done that for my last three vehicles (Toyota Highlander, Subaru Outback XT, Subaru Outback) and neither had one bit of rust when I sold them after 4 years.

I do not do it every year because I don't keep my vehicles long term so don't care about warranty, and I absolutely hate the fact that on really hot days, the stuff still drips out of some holes (hatch) after 3-4 years of application.

Krown is supposed to be safe on rubber seals, but you can ask them to avoid spraying them. I note that my SF already has a few access holes with plastic caps in the door, but they will likely have to drill in the rocker panel. After a while, you don't even notice them.
Thanks, good info. I had my new 2012 VC rust proofed at Krown before the first winter, and was thinking of skipping it this year. You just confirmed my thinking. Thanks.

I am planning on keeping this vehicle for 7-10 years at least, driving probably close to 300k km in salty, harsh Ottawa weather. How often should I have it rust proofed? Only once, every three years, any suggestions??

I do not care about the warranty, I just want the thing to not rust.
 

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Thanks, good info. I had my new 2012 VC rust proofed at Krown before the first winter, and was thinking of skipping it this year. You just confirmed my thinking. Thanks.

I am planning on keeping this vehicle for 7-10 years at least, driving probably close to 300k km in salty, harsh Ottawa weather. How often should I have it rust proofed? Only once, every three years, any suggestions??

I do not care about the warranty, I just want the thing to not rust.
I am in Ottawa as well, so know what you're referring to in terms of harsh weather...and really crappy roads (salt and sand).

There is no easy answer to your question. There are many factors. For example, a guy I have known since high school (loooong time ago) has owned a body shop and has always told me that keeping a car in the garage in the winter actually promotes formation of rust because of the ability of the snow and ice to melt. I also wash my car frequently in the winter by going to the hand spray wash and focusing on flushing out water from the panels, inside wheel wells and underbody.

Personally, if I knew I was going to keep my vehicle that long, I would probably consider doing it every 2-3 years, depending on how I see the body doing, signs of rust, and evidence of the Krown product still coming from holes in the panels. I consider it a small investment to keep a car in good condition over a span of 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think we may have to agree to disagree on this one. As a long time user of Krown, I spray yearly, and my ten year old grand Am still has door seams that look like my sf. If you wait to see signs of rust as you say it will already be too late. I bought a 3 year old pontiac Montana with absolutely no rust and figured it would pay to spray. I sprayed every year for the following 3 years and it started to rust from inside out. Just goes to show once it starts it can't be stopped, maybe slowed at best.

However, I have seen the proof of yearly sprays personally, what I would like to see is a 10-12 year old car that only gets sprayed every 2 or 3 years. It may look pretty good, who knows. But if you compared the two, it's only common sense that the yearly would be much better rust wise. Especially underneath. What many people seem to forget is that you are not just taking care of the body but all the brake/fuel lines and cables etc.

Also I have noticed over the past couple years that because Krown is franchised they are not all equal. Lately many people aren't spraying properly any more. I've come to the conclusion that I have to stand in the shop while they are spraying and tell them how I want it sprayed till I'm happy with it. I'm a little anal though.

Yearly excessive? Yeah quite possibly. It sure makes a **** of a mess. Is there a spot of rust on my other car? I dare you to find it!
 

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I am concerned about the bottom of the door panels where "weep" holes appear to be. Never had a car with that many holes for moisture to enter. Must be a weight saving measure.:confused: Just kidding of course but those holes at the bottom of every door do seem to be a prime source of rust developing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you plan to keep the car 10+ years what's $100/yr and a bit of a mess worth?

Just a little info. I see you live in the states. You guys have an advantage over us. There is a company called carwell that uses a product called t32. This is what Krown Rust used up in Canada until early 2000 when it switched to t40. T32 is a redish product that is a superior anti corrosion product. It is thinner than the t40 used up here. It creeps alot better. I was actually contemplating going over to the states to get my cars sprayed myself. Apparently the reason for the switch in chemical was nothing more than to satisfy complaints of dripping. You can still get t32 up here but only in 5 gal pails and only special order. No one will apply it up here. Just a tad bit of information. I've done a lot of research on this subject.
 

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No modern car should exhibit rust after 4 years
What should happen and what really happens are two different things.

Also, their rust protection warranty is against a perforation due to rust. This means that a Hyundai tech literally has to see a hole through the metal to say "yup, that's covered under warranty". Most drivers will never let their cars get this far without doing something about it.... Which is not covered under warranty.
 
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