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Discussion Starter #43
Well it was a no go on getting the sensor out of the knuckle. So I took the fender liner out, then undid the wire mounts and stays and disconnected it. Found a tree growing behind the fender liner.

Took the knuckle and bearing into town to have them do the dirty work. They were busy so I have to pick it up tomorrow.
 

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Looks like every turn seems to give you more head aches... Guess my wheel sensor might be stuck in too. We will see when I try this.
 

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If you have ABS then there is one of the sensors on each wheel.
I don't have ABS, but IIRC one of the fronts has a sensor on it for measuring wheel revs for something.

Gotta ask, what led you to believe you had a bad bearing?

I have a CLUNKing noise coming seemingly from both sides in the front, I believe. It sounds just like when the sway bar links go bad.

Now I had one replaced on the used car warranty when I bought the car, and then we mangled one when we did the struts, but I don't know if it was the same one. So I either have TWO bad links, or something else is going on.

When I had the tires swapped last week I got under there and felt them, and they seemed solid (the links) but I'm not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I don't have ABS, but IIRC one of the fronts has a sensor on it for measuring wheel revs for something.

Gotta ask, what led you to believe you had a bad bearing?

I have a CLUNKing noise coming seemingly from both sides in the front, I believe. It sounds just like when the sway bar links go bad.

Now I had one replaced on the used car warranty when I bought the car, and then we mangled one when we did the struts, but I don't know if it was the same one. So I either have TWO bad links, or something else is going on.

When I had the tires swapped last week I got under there and felt them, and they seemed solid (the links) but I'm not sure.
Yes on non ABS Accents the speed sensor is on the passenger wheel.

I can hear a roaring noise. Originally thought it was the tires as I had gotten new ones. But the drivers side was actually loose and knocking. The wheel would wobble. Bearing just about fell apart.

Once that was repaired the roaring noise now only happens when I turn right a bit at speed which loads the passenger side bearing. I can make the noise oscillate by slightly turning the wheel when driving n the highway. Before the roaring noise would increase whether I turned right or left.

There does not seem to be any play like on the other side, no wobble when grabbing the wheel. No knocking or other noise. The hub turns OK but is a bit stiff in the knuckle off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It's nice to not have the noise now with the two new bearings.

Takes a bit of finagling to get it all bolted back up. Tire rod end should be done last. And the cotter pin for it and the lower ball joint castle nut is 3/32", 1/8" is too big. The axle nut can use a 1/8" cotter pin.

Basically when reinstalling....

Put top strut bolt in temporarily.
Clean splines on the axle and lightly lube. Line up axle and drive it on. Use a 2x2 piece of wood to pry down on the control arm. Tighten axle nut.
Remove top strut bolt and using the 2x2 line up ball joint receiver and install bolts.
Put top bolt back in strut and tighten
Put caliper bracket back on.
Put in bottom strut bolt.
Re-tighten axle nut.
Put tie rod end back on.
Put in cotter pins.

This is also a good time to check the caliper pins. Be sure the rubber boots are fully seated into the bracket.
 

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Yep had one caliper guide pin was pitted and stuck. Removed cleaned out the caliper bracket and replaced with new guide pin. Of course I ordered 2 along time ago because im parts hore. Great when all you have to do is reach on the shelf and have the part before everything is taken apart. Cleaned out the bracket and greased. Did not show this in the last brake video I did because I recorded the driver side front and this problem was on the passenger side. This yearly brake service is a Must! Especially in the snow belt area. If I did not catch this I would be looking at 250 bucks for a new caliper as hyundai will not sell just the bracket.

Thanks for your posts on the wheel bearing. Just did a htpc computer build this week so the garage was full of computer equipment and studio film equipment. When I get the garage cleaned out Ill put wheel bearings, ball jounts, control arm bushings and front and rear shocks and struts in have a tranny flush, coolant flush, belts and plugs to do. A ton of stuff to do. For those who have pm me here these videos will cone. Just give me some time as my time is limited . Thanks again for the posts red....
 

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Bummer as the drivers side is bad again. I see Moog makes rebuilt complete hubs now. Rock Auto has them for around $150.
Do it, and save your sanity!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
The hub took two shipping days to get here. I put it in today. No big deal other than I needed new strut nuts and cotter pins.

At least I got a new pie tin. The OEs are about rusted away.

$154 was the cost.
 

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Sure beats trying to press a rusted bearing out of the old one. May be less expensive, but what an aggravation!

Did it come with the bearings installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yes it was all assembled. Just take out three nuts and 4 bolts. Came with a new axle nut. 32mm

Hardest part was getting the short bolt for the brake hose mount back in. :(
 
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