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just wondering which is better... the k&n cold air intake, the injen intake, or weapon r...need help in choosing so i can purchase this weekendB)
 

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just wondering which is better... the k&n cold air intake, the injen intake, or weapon r...need help in choosing so i can purchase this weekendB)
I don't think you can do much better than what you have as stock now so my recommendation would be to save your $$$ for something more productive or useful. Not to mention voiding whatever warranty you might have.

Larry
 

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I don't think you can do much better than what you have as stock now so my recommendation would be to save your $$$ for something more productive or useful. Not to mention voiding whatever warranty you might have.

Larry
It doesn't void your warranty unless the intake is the cause of the problem. Not just that but you can get more efficient than the stock intake if you are able to draw air from the outside of the car into a cylinder tube the air would flow much better with less turbulence.
 

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Best thing to do is go to an exhaust shop and get a guy to mandrel bend you a pipe and cut two holes in the top for the booster and PCv line and go to autozone by a cone filer and a coupler
have the guy route the pipe down near the driver side foglight there is a 6 by 6 in square that the pipe can go through near the foglight that sits outside the engine bay into the inside of the wheel well behind the fog light
i made a quick one out of spectre tubes and took it to an exhaust shop and he said ... never made an intake but ill give it a shot and sure enough turned out great and it only cost 100 dollars for the 3.5in pipe and labor
 

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It doesn't void your warranty unless the intake is the cause of the problem. Not just that but you can get more efficient than the stock intake if you are able to draw air from the outside of the car into a cylinder tube the air would flow much better with less turbulence.
The intake already gets it's air from in front of the radiator ... i.e. outside air and if you believe you can redesign the system to be more efficient than Hyundai that already has for mpg reasons your better than all their engineers. As far as warranty tell that to the regional rep when they see you have modified their engine with non standard non OEM equilivant parts. This is not like using things like filters, etc. that are protected by the MM act ... this is like "chipping" an engine for some performance reason.

I'll stay with my original recommendation to leave what you have as stock alone since you won't be able to do any better with something else.

Larry
 

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The intake already gets it's air from in front of the radiator ... i.e. outside air and if you believe you can redesign the system to be more efficient than Hyundai that already has for mpg reasons your better than all their engineers. As far as warranty tell that to the regional rep when they see you have modified their engine with non standard non OEM equilivant parts. This is not like using things like filters, etc. that are protected by the MM act ... this is like "chipping" an engine for some performance reason.

I'll stay with my original recommendation to leave what you have as stock alone since you won't be able to do any better with something else.

Larry
Its basic physics, the air with the shortest and straightest route will move faster. Also I had a SRI on my 05 Hyundai Elantra and the stealership never said one word or gave me any warranty issues. If his spark plugs breaks and blows his engine they cant say his intake caused it.
Have a nice day Mr. Debbi Downer/know it all
 

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Its basic physics, the air with the shortest and straightest route will move faster. Also I had a SRI on my 05 Hyundai Elantra and the stealership never said one word or gave me any warranty issues. If his spark plugs breaks and blows his engine they cant say his intake caused it.
Have a nice day Mr. Debbi Downer/know it all
Well I'm just giving the facts as I see them and unlike others understand what the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act does and does not protect and modifications is not something it protects against. It was enacted to basically prevent manufacturers requiring specific parts such to be used like filters and fluids in the maintenance of their vehicles in order for warranties to be valid w/o specific government approval. It's not about being a Debbi Downer/know it all ... just being truthful and factual.

Finally, it seems you don't understand warranties and the fact that it's not the dealership that provides the warranty, its the manufacturer who determines what is a warrantied or not usually thru regional reps which I specifically mentioned in my prior post as the one you need to be worried about. Your specific reference to the "stealership" confirms this misconception on your part.

Larry
 

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I agree with Larry, most intakes are a waste of money and offer nothing more than a little more noise. The stock intake is perfect for this car, if you want to spend money just buy a K&N or a Dry type performance filter and be done. Save your money.
 

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lol they are right.. save your money and go buy a fast car :)
 

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An aftermarket intake is a supporting mod for a modified engine that requires more airflow. By modified I mean, real internal engine mods, like a ported cylinder head, more aggressive cam, bigger injectors, etc.. Frankly the air filter on our cars is so large, its more than adequate.

You'll see minimal gains on a stock engine. The filters that use oil on the media are known to interfere with the MAF,too.
 

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The sound of a CAI on most cars is worth it in my opinion. Nice growl given to lower displacement cars.
Nothing wrong with a little "BLING" so to speak as long as one is aware of the potential downsides. I just don't feel it's prudent to not warn folks of the potential downsides to some of these "MODS".

I'm not much different in that I have invested over $1.5k in LED/HID lighting mods that I have to disable/remove each year to pass our annual state vehicle inspection. I have even invested in spare headlight dust caps, custom covers for my PIAA aux backup lights, and extra bulb sockets for the front turn signals to make switching back and forth easier. The only approved stock bulbs in my entire car are the Sylvania XSE high beam bulbs and I can switch back and forth in under two hours now and while a pain is something I just accept because for me the benefits outweigh the aggravation.

BTW I seldom see this potential issue with all these HID/LED light threads for those whose state has annual vehicle safety inspections. Of course the specifics are state dependent and vary wildly in what is and what is not allowed. Virginia is probably one of the most strict.

Larry
 

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An aftermarket intake is a supporting mod for a modified engine that requires more airflow. By modified I mean, real internal engine mods, like a ported cylinder head, more aggressive cam, bigger injectors, etc.. Frankly the air filter on our cars is so large, its more than adequate.

You'll see minimal gains on a stock engine. The filters that use oil on the media are known to interfere with the MAF,too.
Larry and sngldad are correct. But if you do decide to go the CAI route, I would like to see dyno numbers before and after. You do plan on seeing what your power gain is don't you?
:3gears:
 

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I'm not much different in that I have invested over $1.5k in LED/HID lighting mods that I have to disable/remove each year to pass our annual state vehicle inspection. I have even invested in spare headlight dust caps, custom covers for my PIAA aux backup lights, and extra bulb sockets for the front turn signals to make switching back and forth easier. The only approved stock bulbs in my entire car are the Sylvania XSE high beam bulbs and I can switch back and forth in under two hours now and while a pain is something I just accept because for me the benefits outweigh the aggravation.


Larry
This is ridiculous, $1.5k in just lights and LEDS.
 

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This is ridiculous, $1.5k in just lights and LEDS.
Well it is what it is and you again in this area like the intake discussion need to educate yourself a little more on the realities and facts. Unlike you I readily admitted to my over the top approach in this one area and it is obviously not for everyone, nor am I recommending others to do what I have done. BTW here is a list of what I have spent on the aforementioned lightening mods...

Precision LED (reverse & DRL LED Bulbs)-95.98
Xenon Supply (Low Beam HID Headlights) - 125.49
Precision LED (Front MAP/Room LEDs) - 31.57
KingKongMall (Blue LED Strip) - 10.86
SparkFun Electronics (mini 2 wire connectors) - 11.86
iJDMTOY (Rear MAP/ROOM LEDs) - 39.65
Advance (ZXE bulbs) - 41.99
Amazon.com (PIAA Fog Plasma Ion Bulbs) - 48.92
Parts.Com (4 Dust Caps) - 28.15
Walmart (Fog lights wire loom) - 23.00
Shark Racing (LED reflectors ) - 110.00
Amazon.com (PIAA 1500 lamps) - 143.75
Performance Plus (6 Weatherpak connectors) - 22.94
Shark Racing (DRLs) - 200.00
Amazon.com (LED puck lights 2pr.) - 22.00
Shark Racing (Door Courtesy and clear covers) - 60.00
iJDMTOY (rear turn signal) - 63.59
VLEDS (two 921 LEDs) - 29.99
VLEDS (two 1157 Brake Lts.) - 49.99
PEP Boys (Two turn signal arrows) - 10.50
VLEDS (Front 1157 Switchbacks & resistors) - 97.94
Jim Ellis Hyundai (two front bulb sockets) - 31.91
Ebay (20 mini two wire connectors) - 8.99
Ebay (10 two wire weather proof connectors) - 5.99

TOTAL - $1518.93

Now I obviously didn't CHEAP OUT with the EBAY routine, but for me paying more for what I consider a much better chance at getting a quality product with good warranty and C.S. is a price I am willing and more than able to pay for my TOYS.

Finally, I have spent a total of just over $2K in mods getting my car to where I like it and am not a member of the "TIRE AND WHEEL" club whose membership costs are probably close to what I have invested in total on my car and I guess I could call those folks outlay for that single item as ridiculous too, but won't.

To the O.P. I apologize for this off topic tangent, but I'm only responding to specific off topic attacks on me.

BTW my off topic comment about my LED/HID mod cost was just an illustration to the on topic "bling" response to Big-O-Meat's post and am surprised anyone would want to take it to the level that TxBoy did:eek:, but maybe his screen name is more descriptive than we realize:p

Larry
 

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Well it is what it is and you again in this area like the intake discussion need to educate yourself a little more on the realities and facts. Unlike you I readily admitted to my over the top approach in this one area and it is obviously not for everyone, nor am I recommending others to do what I have done. BTW here is a list of what I have spent on the aforementioned lightening mods...

Precision LED (reverse & DRL LED Bulbs)-95.98
Xenon Supply (Low Beam HID Headlights) - 125.49
Precision LED (Front MAP/Room LEDs) - 31.57
KingKongMall (Blue LED Strip) - 10.86
SparkFun Electronics (mini 2 wire connectors) - 11.86
iJDMTOY (Rear MAP/ROOM LEDs) - 39.65
Advance (ZXE bulbs) - 41.99
Amazon.com (PIAA Fog Plasma Ion Bulbs) - 48.92
Parts.Com (4 Dust Caps) - 28.15
Walmart (Fog lights wire loom) - 23.00
Shark Racing (LED reflectors ) - 110.00
Amazon.com (PIAA 1500 lamps) - 143.75
Performance Plus (6 Weatherpak connectors) - 22.94
Shark Racing (DRLs) - 200.00
Amazon.com (LED puck lights 2pr.) - 22.00
Shark Racing (Door Courtesy and clear covers) - 60.00
iJDMTOY (rear turn signal) - 63.59
VLEDS (two 921 LEDs) - 29.99
VLEDS (two 1157 Brake Lts.) - 49.99
PEP Boys (Two turn signal arrows) - 10.50
VLEDS (Front 1157 Switchbacks & resistors) - 97.94
Jim Ellis Hyundai (two front bulb sockets) - 31.91
Ebay (20 mini two wire connectors) - 8.99
Ebay (10 two wire weather proof connectors) - 5.99

TOTAL - $1518.93

Now I obviously didn't CHEAP OUT with the EBAY routine, but for me paying more for what I consider a much better chance at getting a quality product with good warranty and C.S. is a price I am willing and more than able to pay for my TOYS.

Finally, I have spent a total of just over $2K in mods getting my car to where I like it and am not a member of the "TIRE AND WHEEL" club whose membership costs are probably close to what I have invested in total on my car and I guess I could call those folks outlay for that single item as ridiculous too, but won't.

To the O.P. I apologize for this off topic tangent, but I'm only responding to specific off topic attacks on me.

BTW my off topic comment about my LED/HID mod cost was just an illustration to the on topic "bling" response to Big-O-Meat's post and am surprised anyone would want to take it to the level that TxBoy did:eek:, but maybe his screen name is more descriptive than we realize:p

Larry
I am just tired of every time someone posts about them doing something to their car you question them on why they wasted their money on doing such and such mod to their car. That would be why I called you a debby downer and also when you said that I was saying I know more than the Hyundai techs when they designed the intake system. They designed it to make as little noise as possible while keeping some fuel economy. That is a totally different reason on why someone would put an aftermarket intake on their car. In regards to my screen name if you are not from Tx then you don't understand what that phrase means and I am far from a boy.
 

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Well it is what it is and you again in this area like the intake discussion need to educate yourself a little more on the realities and facts. Unlike you I readily admitted to my over the top approach in this one area and it is obviously not for everyone, nor am I recommending others to do what I have done. BTW here is a list of what I have spent on the aforementioned lightening mods...

Precision LED (reverse & DRL LED Bulbs)-95.98
Xenon Supply (Low Beam HID Headlights) - 125.49
Precision LED (Front MAP/Room LEDs) - 31.57
KingKongMall (Blue LED Strip) - 10.86
SparkFun Electronics (mini 2 wire connectors) - 11.86
iJDMTOY (Rear MAP/ROOM LEDs) - 39.65
Advance (ZXE bulbs) - 41.99
Amazon.com (PIAA Fog Plasma Ion Bulbs) - 48.92
Parts.Com (4 Dust Caps) - 28.15
Walmart (Fog lights wire loom) - 23.00
Shark Racing (LED reflectors ) - 110.00
Amazon.com (PIAA 1500 lamps) - 143.75
Performance Plus (6 Weatherpak connectors) - 22.94
Shark Racing (DRLs) - 200.00
Amazon.com (LED puck lights 2pr.) - 22.00
Shark Racing (Door Courtesy and clear covers) - 60.00
iJDMTOY (rear turn signal) - 63.59
VLEDS (two 921 LEDs) - 29.99
VLEDS (two 1157 Brake Lts.) - 49.99
PEP Boys (Two turn signal arrows) - 10.50
VLEDS (Front 1157 Switchbacks & resistors) - 97.94
Jim Ellis Hyundai (two front bulb sockets) - 31.91
Ebay (20 mini two wire connectors) - 8.99
Ebay (10 two wire weather proof connectors) - 5.99

TOTAL - $1518.93

Now I obviously didn't CHEAP OUT with the EBAY routine, but for me paying more for what I consider a much better chance at getting a quality product with good warranty and C.S. is a price I am willing and more than able to pay for my TOYS.

Finally, I have spent a total of just over $2K in mods getting my car to where I like it and am not a member of the "TIRE AND WHEEL" club whose membership costs are probably close to what I have invested in total on my car and I guess I could call those folks outlay for that single item as ridiculous too, but won't.

To the O.P. I apologize for this off topic tangent, but I'm only responding to specific off topic attacks on me.

BTW my off topic comment about my LED/HID mod cost was just an illustration to the on topic "bling" response to Big-O-Meat's post and am surprised anyone would want to take it to the level that TxBoy did:eek:, but maybe his screen name is more descriptive than we realize:p

Larry
I understood where you were going with it. I don't have a CAI. I just see the reasoning behind putting one on. I personally wouldn't put 300 dollars into a "performance" part that doesn't offer much performance though. If purchasing for the sound or to match with a custom exhaust I could see the benefit. If you're installing a standalone CAI for power I think the money would be better spent elsewhere.
 

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Even before looking at a CAI you may just want to do an ECU tune. It's kind of useless to change the hardware on this kind of car.
 

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Dogging Larry for what he enjoys doing with his own car seems a bit over the top...especially considering you have no idea what his finances may look like.

Lets all agree to stop dogging someone's Mods...we're here to help eath other.

Larry...I do have to ask...what is this Mod all about? " PEP Boys (Two turn signal arrows)"
 

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Dogging Larry for what he enjoys doing with his own car seems a bit over the top...especially considering you have no idea what his finances may look like.

Lets all agree to stop dogging someone's Mods...we're here to help eath other.

Larry...I do have to ask...what is this Mod all about? " PEP Boys (Two turn signal arrows)"
A little back ground and I saw these when at PEP boys looking for some blind spot mirrors. They are also available on Amazon and look like the following.


I thought about the ones that go behind the mirror, but with the heated mirrors I was a little concerned with peeling back the heating pad and then installing the signal LED and then getting a good heat transfer when the heat pad was reinstalled. Also, I had to contend with this not being DOT certified so I went with the stick on type as shown above. I wired them into the existing turn signal ckt in the mirrors on my LTD and for inspection I simply peel them off and store them behind the mirror for inspection and then just reapply them after the inspection. This is truly "BLING", but I have a bad habit of forgetting to turn my signals off when changing lanes so this is a sort of my "DUMMY REMINDER". I did something similiar on my E-350, but there it's just a pilot light mounted in my A-Pillar gauge POD.

It's not as clean or OEM looking as the behind the mirror LED things, but it serves the purpose that I got it for.

One of the slickest lighting related mods IMO was installing the "PUCK LIGHTS" to illuminate not only the cupholders, but all the storage cubbies in the center console and they are tied into the dimmer ckt via the seat heater switch illumination ckt followed by my switch so I can have just my FOG lights on w/o the low beams. Below is a pic of the "PUCK LIGHTS" in action ....



Larry
 
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