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Hi, My knowledge about car is almost 0. My car is hyundai santa fe 2007 SE. This morning, i see my coolant reservoir is empty (mabe it already happens for a long time because i have not check it frequently). But my car is still running well so far. I will take it to repair shop to check it later but for now, i would like to refill it. Autozone recommends me several Preston coolant fluids. but i dont know what is the best fit for my car. Could you please let me know which one is best fit for my car.
If you can, please send me the link to that coolant fluid. Anything other than Preston are welcome.

here is what i can see in my manual:
"Use a high quality ethylene-glycol coolant in a 50/50 mix with water. The engine coolant should be compatible with aluminum engine parts. Additional corrosion inhibitors or additives should not be used.The cooling system must be maintained with the correct concentration and type of engine coolant to prevent freezing and corrosion. Never allow the concentration of antifreeze to exceed the 60% level or go below the 35% level, or damage to the cooling system may result. For proper concentration when adding or replacing the engine coolant, refer to the following table. "
 

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The difference in coolants is largely one of whether the additive package is designed to deal with older copper/brass radiators or aluminum ones. Mixing one with the other can cause some follow-on problems (e.g., the silicate additives in one package can be taken out of solution into slime by the additives of another package).

What you will be doing? Flushing out the entire system, or just topping it off? If you've never done a full flush on an '07 (and not being one to believe entirely in '10 year' fluid - the additive packages do degrade with time and miles), it might be a good time to think about it.

In any case, you'll be looking for something called an "HOAT" (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) fluid for your Hyundai. Either to top it off, or to flush and fill, it's the same stuff you'll want to use. Roll into your local parts store with that phrase in mind, and see what kind of response you get.
 

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FWIW, some of the best prices I've seen on this type of fluid are on the Zerex '675130' Asian Vehicle Anitfreeze. HOWEVER, it is a 50/50 premix, so you are (IMO) paying extra for the water. The Zerex ZXGO51 G-05 is similar stuff, but at full strength, waiting for you to add water. The difference is the absence of phosphate in their additive package for the G-05. Not sure that's really all that critical after reading the literature on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The difference in coolants is largely one of whether the additive package is designed to deal with older copper/brass radiators or aluminum ones. Mixing one with the other can cause some follow-on problems (e.g., the silicate additives in one package can be taken out of solution into slime by the additives of another package).

What you will be doing? Flushing out the entire system, or just topping it off? If you've never done a full flush on an '07 (and not being one to believe entirely in '10 year' fluid - the additive packages do degrade with time and miles), it might be a good time to think about it.

In any case, you'll be looking for something called an "HOAT" (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) fluid for your Hyundai. Either to top it off, or to flush and fill, it's the same stuff you'll want to use. Roll into your local parts store with that phrase in mind, and see what kind of response you get.

Thanks for reply. What i am gonna do is just top it off. Put some more coolant fluid into reservoir because it is empty now (i guess there are a leaking with the coolant system).
 

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If you've never had to top it off before, it's no surprise that after 5 years, it's due. However, if this is becoming a regular event, you'll want to pin down the source of that. Coolant isn't cheap like it was in the 'old days', either!

Anyway, you know what to ask them for now. Technically, the phosphate is in the original stuff from the factory, so if you walk in saying P-HOAT, while I'm still not convinced that's really critical, it's a closer match than just HOAT. Either will happily co-exist with what's in there now.
 

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Time for a flush and new fluid. Any antifreeze that says its compatible with aluminum engines will work. Some last longer than others.
 

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Is there some reason that the typical Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze (All makes, All models, Add to any color antifreeze)found most places would not be adviseable?
 

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Is there some reason that the typical Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze (All makes, All models, Add to any color antifreeze)found most places would not be adviseable?
Impossible to say about this Prestone because they decline to mention what they've put in their additive package. Until they're willing to disclose that, there's no reason to trust that this particular product will work and play well with others. It's one of my gripes about Prestone in general. Xerex is very open about the nature of their additives, so it's easy to select an appropriate product. Sorry. Their own product line-up raises questions.

Example:

Prestone Dex-Cool Antifreeze Coolant Formulated for Long Life

Dex-Cool Antifreeze Coolant is specially formulated for use in vehicles that require Dex-Cool Antifreeze Coolant. Dex-Cool can also be used in cars and light trucks that are equipped with aluminum radiators and utilize extended life coolant to keep your engine running at its optimum temperature.


Product is priced comparably to the supposedly 'universal' product, so why make this one?
 

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Plain old every day green ethylene glycol is all you need.. get the regular stuff, I mix 1 gallon green to 3qt water, then fill system with the mix.
 

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Just get the supertech ehtylene glycol gallon bottle from walmart for about $12. I don't know how the 2007 is setup, but on the 2011 they want you to continuously drain and fill the radiator. I did that this summer. It was stupid and I will never do that again. Just run the car and let the water pump flush everything out and then fill it with fresh mix. Probably only take about 10 minutes too instead of constantly draining radiator / filling radiator / driving car / repeat.
 

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Plain old every day green ethylene glycol is all you need.. get the regular stuff, I mix 1 gallon green to 3qt water, then fill system with the mix.
Not sure I'd want to buy "plain old" glycol even if I could. Poor corrosion protection at best. Can you actually buy it without an additive package included? If not, then knowing what's in it can be important unless you plan to do a full flush before refilling. If you do that, it doesn't much matter if it's done WELL. But the OP wants to top off his coolant, not replace it.

Have you ever seen what a high silicate coolant does when improperly mixed? The silicate precipitates out of the solution as slime (or even stiffer stuff). Burned once, and never again. I want to know what's in the stuff before I dump it in.
 

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Have you ever seen what a high silicate coolant does when improperly mixed? The silicate precipitates out of the solution as slime (or even stiffer stuff). Burned once, and never again. I want to know what's in the stuff before I dump it in.
Yep, should be easy enough to flush just fill a 5 gallon bucket with distilled water and pull the lower hose off the radiator and put the hose into the bucket and then run the car and let the water pump pull the water out and flush the system.

It is too bad there is not a drain plug on the engine block.
 

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Hyundai uses a green coolant that is slightly different then the Preston yellow jug all-vehicle green, but for topping up it is fine. Just using distilled water would be fine too when only topping up a litre or so.

I would avoid "dex-cool" or zerex g-05 unless doing a full flush and fill. I've used both and don't think there is anything wrong with them, but for one, they usually cost more, and for 2nd, they arnt the same as the factory coolant so it isnt worth the hassle of buying something that is not considered general all-purpose coolant nor is the right match. If you want to buy something specific, get the coolant from the dealer.
 

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I don't know how the Santa Fe is but on the Accent it is near impossible to get all the old coolant out of. So beware when mixing different types.
 

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At 50.000 km (mine is 2010) I wanted to replace the whole fluid.

So, dealer says here the recoomended is Mobil Permazone, but I chose other:
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140002216370_1D91.pdf

Shell :cool: OAT

Shell Long Life-OAT -45°C

Premium Anti-freeze, Anti-boil and Anti-corrosion pre-diluted
coolant/antifreeze product
ready to use directly in cooling systems

Shell Long Life-OAT -45°C is a pre-diluted glycol based engine coolant with a corrosion
inhibitor package that is based on a balanced mixture of organic corrosion inhibitors. Shell
Long Life-OAT -45°C is suitable for all passenger cars, 4WDs, and light duty diesel vehicles.
Shell Long Life-OAT –45
oC is pre-diluted with good quality water and needs no further water
addition, ready to use directly in cooling systems.

Applications

Shell Long Life-OAT -45°C is suitable for use in all

passenger cars, 4WDs, and light utility vehicles.
OEM was green, new is yellow. About 9.000 kms have passed and engine didn´t blow or spill hot fluid or any catastrophic thing.

I recommend you prediluted..May be you pay more, but if therès no space and don´t want to contaminate hands, etc etc. , this is your choice.
--

But check!!! Won´t last 250.000 km (may be 150.000), because
the fluid manufacturer assumed the whole system is clean and fully drained- something VERY hard to do - remember that always remains a little bit of liquid, and that`s what you hace to check for possible incompatibilities.

In Asian cars, color is not as important as for US - Japan made.
I remember a 1997 PM magazine saying in which cars coolant color must not be changed.
 

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At 50.000 km (mine is 2010) I wanted to replace the whole fluid.

So, dealer says here the recoomended is Mobil Permazone, but I chose other:
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140002216370_1D91.pdf

Shell :cool: OAT
OEM was green, new is yellow. About 9.000 kms have passed and engine didn´t blow or spill hot fluid or any catastrophic thing.

I recommend you prediluted..May be you pay more, but if therès no space and don´t want to contaminate hands, etc etc. , this is your choice.
--

But check!!! Won´t last 250.000 km (may be 150.000), because
the fluid manufacturer assumed the whole system is clean and fully drained- something VERY hard to do - remember that always remains a little bit of liquid, and that`s what you hace to check for possible incompatibilities.

In Asian cars, color is not as important as for US - Japan made.
I remember a 1997 PM magazine saying in which cars coolant color must not be changed.
I would definitely never leave coolant in for 100K miles. Not even the hoat which is "super mega awesome long live amazingness" coolant. I flush/fill my entire system every 2 years, but it would be just as easy to drain/flush/refill the radiator every year. All it requires is:

1.) remove the air dam/splash shield underneath
2.) open petcock and drain into bucket
3.) open radiator cap, pour distilled water down through radiator
4.) remove all fluid from overflow bottle via aspiration or by removing the reservoir and dumping it.
5.) close petcock
6.) refill with 50:50 mix

Option to put car on ramps, I would since it makes it much easier to work underneath.

That whole process takes less than 30 minutes start to finish and you'll change out some 20%-30% of the fluid (if I remember correctly). While not perfect if you do that annually you will lose a half hour of your time, and you will be perpetually renewing your fluid which will very likely extend the life of your radiator and your water pump gasket.
 

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Based on this NAPA chart of year 2005 (No Zerex Asian Vehicle yet)



Preston Extended Life "fit all altomobiles and light trucks" for Asian (probably include Hyundai).
As canderson said, the difference between Preston Extended Life & Zerex Asian
is phosphate free or not.

I already used Preston Extended Life full strength to drain and refill few years ago. and want to use it again,
With full strength this time, I can flush with distilled water, and refill the full strength at last step.
Zerex Asian sells only 50/50 premixed, so it's not possible to flush this way.
 
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