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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What I learned by replacing the pads and discs on my i10 by myself.

This ‘rough guide’ can be used for most cars, as most cars use the same setup.

DISCLAIMER: I’m not a professional. By all means get stuck in. It feels great achieving something that you’ve done yourself. But don’t blame me if you shear a nut, break something, or whatever. So take your time.

This is hopefully going to be a quick(ish) topic on what I learned when replacing the pads and discs on my 2010 i10 by myself, for the first time, on my driveway and a quick rundown of the tools I used.

If any professionals would like to correct me on anything, please do so. I’m still learning.

This is not a step by step guide. If you want to see and learn how to replace pads and rotors check out on YouTube. ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy are a couple good sources. Plus Edd China did one quite recently. However if after reading this you want me to do a step by step then let me know and I’ll type one up, including all torque settings.

If you have the confidence, you should try it yourself, once I’d done the first brake assembly, the NSF and both rears were done in less than 2 hours.

I didn’t take many photos as I wanted to get the job done, as it was about 4 degrees outside and my hands were cold.

Pads were around 4 years old and the discs were the original ones from the factory.

First of all, safety.

Drake dust and lungs don’t mix. Neither does brake cleaner and eyes. Also you will encounter rust, which is not good for your lungs either. I wore eye protection and a mask when I was scrubbing the brakes. I also wore nitrile gloves to protect my hands from the grease and cleaner and all sorts of contaminants.
Do not use the jack that comes with the car. I’d invest or borrow a decent low level jack and a set of axle stands. When you’ve removed the wheels, put them under the car just in case the worst happens. Then at least you can walk away.

I used Mintex branded pads and discs. Read up on a few reviews and ordered them online. I think it cost me £150 in total, but I ordered pads one month, and discs the other.
When you get the delivery, check to make sure the discs are okay and the pads come with new shims. Mine didn’t and I had to get them separately.
When replacing pads, always replace the fronts on both sides, same with the rears. This applies with discs too. Always replace as a pair.

Tools I used:

Socket Set
Spanners (there’s a couple of hard to reach nuts)
Piston wind back tool for rear brakes (see photo)
Piston compressor for front brakes (see photo)
Large Phillips screwdriver and possibly a flat head screwdriver
Breaker bar for those stubborn bolts
Wire brush

You will also need:

M8 bolt (you’ll see what this is for soon)
Silicone paste or other suitable substance that’s safe to use on brakes. Some greases will cause the rubber parts to swell and crack, causing premature failure of seals.
Brake pad grease to grease the contact points form the pads to the shims. Some people use copper grease but this dries out over time and can cause pads to stick.
WD40 or your choice of penetrating fluid as some bolts might be seized.
Blue Loctite to stop bolts coming loose after instillation.
Bungee cord to hold the caliper up.
Brake cleaner
Dust mask
Eye protection
Nitrile gloves


Brake bleed kit
Replacement disc screws as you’re bound to strip the heads on at least one. Ebay sell them for not much money.

On my i10 with nearly 80,000 miles on the clock the pads had only been replaced once and the car has the original discs from the factory.

I don’t mention it throughout but I cleaned as much crud off the caliper, hub assembly and surroundings as possible.

After lifting the car and removing the wheels removing the bolts were quite easy. They weren’t stupidly tight or too loose. Whatever side of the car you’re working on, put the key in the ignition and turn the wheel so the bolts are towards you. Work with the car, not against it.
I disassembled and separated the piston part of the caliper from the carriage as I was changing the pads and discs. If you’re just doing pads, you wont need to do that bit.
Use a bungee cord to attach the caliper to the suspension. Never dangle it down on the brake line as this will probably, no, most certainly damage it.

This is a good time now to have a good look around. Check the brake lines, check the piston and piston boot. Any leaks? I actually came across an issue whilst replacing my pads. It looks like the last time they were replaced the garage trapped the boot behind the pad and it tore a hole in the boot. The piston is now rusty and needs replacing as I think the rust *might* damage the seal when I push the piston back into the caliper. I’ll be doing this in a week or so when I get the rebuild kit.

I used a screwdriver to pry the old pads off, taking note where the wear indicator is facing. It will always be the inside pad against the piston.

Using the piston compressor tool gently push the piston back into the caliper. Making sure not to damage the boot. Also check your brake fluid level as you push the piston back in. The fluid will naturally be lower to take up space as the pad wears down. If you haven’t topped the fluid up then it shouldn’t get too high. Remember, brake fluid will eat paint. So any fluid on the car needs to be washed off immediately.

Some people will say that doing this could damage valves in the brake lines, so you should attach a bleed kit onto the bleed nipple, and crack that open whilst pushing the piston back.

When you remove the discs the fronts are held on my two small screws and the rear with one. These are only to hold the disc in place whilst the wheels are off and to ease with replacing the pads. These screws are made from chocolate. They’re soft as s***. I stripped almost all of them but not to the point where I couldn’t get them out.
If you do by any chance strip the heads, get a hammer and a small flat headed screwdriver and gently use that to turn the screw out by putting the flat bit on one edge and tapping it with a hammer to turn it out.

If you’ve got both screws out and the caliper carriage removed and the disc still wont come off it’s probably stuck to the hub with rust. Use the M8 bolt through one of the screw holes to push it loose. Pull the disc off and take the bolt out. Woohoo!

Before putting your new disc on the hub, give the face of the hub a good scrub with the wire brush. Use brake cleaner to lean the face of the dust. Give the wheel nut bolts a quick scrub too.

Clean the new disc with brake cleaner. At the factory they apply a light coat of oil to stop them rusting. Cast iron has excellent heat dissipation properties but it’s a bother for rust.

Put the screws back into the disc to hold it in place. I didn’t use any loctite here. Replace the carriage. I did use loctite on these bolts.

Put your new slims onto the caliper carriage and add a dab of brake shim grease suitable for high temps. Make sure you don’t get it on your discs. Also add a little dab to the tabs of the pads and put them into the brackets.

On the piston part of the caliper, give the guide pin a wipe and smear a little silicone paste onto it. Not too much or it will create a compression effect when you put the guide pin pack into the bracket. This will cause your pads to constantly rub onto the discs. So just a smear will do.
Slide the pin in and close the piston part up. If you’ve done everything correctly it should line up perfectly. If not give the piston part a little wiggle back and forwards. Replace the bolt, adding a little loctite and tighten it up.
Well done, that’s one side done!

The rears are roughly the same. Except you will need to use a piston wind back tool. Gently wind it back into place. I used a spray of silicone as the dust boot was getting caught up as i was screwing it back into the caliper. Also something to note. When you screw back the piston, make sure the grooves are 12 and 6 o’clock as they line up with a tab in the rear brake pads. I was fiddling around for 5 minutes trying to figure out why it wasn’t fitting in.

Instillation is the reverse of removal, except I added a dab of loctite to all the bolts.

When you’ve done your brakes, make sure you do up your fluid reservoir if that’s something you’ve undone. Also give your brakes a few good presses to seat the pistons on the pads or you’ll get a big surprise when you try and stop.

Also they will feel strange when you use them. This will pass as the brakes bed in. So no hard braking until they do.

I also bled the brakes whilst I had the car in the air. Not essential as I had no spongy brakes, but it’s something I wanted to do and it put my mind at ease.

I also took the time to jet wash under the arches and all the suspension whilst it was up in the air and the wheels were off. Turned out to be a waste of time, as it snowed today and the miles of back roads I travel along were flooded.

So this short message has turned into an essay.

Any questions or corrections, please add and like I say if you want me to do a step by step let me know, and I’ll do one.


1 Posts
Official Brake Manual is available online for free

Just a note that Hyundai provide an official Brake service manual online (as required by EU regulations) Linked of the front page of their Global Service way web site (sorry cannot give direct link yet until I've done 5 posts)
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