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Hay guys how and where have you set up your boost guage line? I want to ad a boost gauge so trying to see what has been done.

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Sxth Element Engineering vacuum adapter for a clean pressure source

Prosport Evo Premium Electronic Boost Gauge


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Hose goes from adapter to electronic sending unit. Sending unit is ziptied to the wiring harness for the brake master cylinder.
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Cable passes through firewall grommet (only one cable with this boost gague)
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Cable comes out on other side under drivers side dash.
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Cable gets routed upwards and plugs into back of boost gauge.
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Cluster wiring harness gets tapped for needed connections (12V constant, 12V switched, Ground, Illumination). I decided to solder it in.
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I removed the gauge cluster hood, mounted my boost gauge bracket and cut a hole for the wires. I only used my knife at first but I went back with a dremel later to clean it up.
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How it's attached
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Before hooking up the gauge
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z

Final product, I added chrome bezel to match the gauge cluster. This is an updated pic, I installed this more than a year ago.
The gauge has several features including auto dimming, peak boost memory, overboost warning, and can change red, green, blue or white. I have it white most of the time to match.
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Had my first 1k oil change for my break in period, put my intake and TurboXS blow off valve back on. I think they did some kind of ECU update, not sure what its called. I'm not 100% sure but it may have pulled harder on my old update with the old motor. Side note, I'm getting 40mpg driving easy on the hwy, didn't get more then 37 before. Maybe the update is for less power and more MPG, or is it the new motor?

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First oil change was free. I'm very grateful to Hyundai for making it right and honoring the recall.

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Had my first 1k oil change for my break in period, put my intake and TurboXS blow off valve back on. I think they did some kind of ECU update, not sure what its called. I'm not 100% sure but it may have pulled harder on my old update with the old motor. Side note, I'm getting 40mpg driving easy on the hwy, didn't get more then 37 before. Maybe the update is for less power and more MPG, or is it the new motor?

Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk
Had my first 1k oil change for my break in period, put my intake and TurboXS blow off valve back on. I think they did some kind of ECU update, not sure what its called. I'm not 100% sure but it may have pulled harder on my old update with the old motor. Side note, I'm getting 40mpg driving easy on the hwy, didn't get more then 37 before. Maybe the update is for less power and more MPG, or is it the new motor?

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Campaign 953 update and there may be a break-in period that limits boost and spark advance.
 

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Been awhile since I've been on here....

Yesterday I had a dentist appointment around noon so I worked from home in the morning. When I got home, it was around 1pm so I decided to tackle the valve cover gasket replacement.

All in all it's not a bad job, just a **** of a lot of bolts to remove (#14 is a bitch). I counted 28 (20 for the valve cover and 8 other bolts for the harness, hpfp and coils). I bought a 19mm gdi fuel line socket so I could torque the fuel delivery tube nut to spec (24ft lbs), and I followed the instructions in the fsm to the T.

I did several passes on the valve cover to make sure they were all tight, I was probably more careful than I should have been but eh it's a plastic valve cover.

I got the valve cover gasket from Amazon and the hpfp gasket from Ebay. I used RTV black instead of the specified Loctite sealant.

Took a couple hours since I took my time. No leaks and I drove it to work this morning.
 

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Registered
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Been awhile since I've been on here....

Yesterday I had a dentist appointment around noon so I worked from home in the morning. When I got home, it was around 1pm so I decided to tackle the valve cover gasket replacement.

All in all it's not a bad job, just a **** of a lot of bolts to remove (#14 is a bitch). I counted 28 (20 for the valve cover and 8 other bolts for the harness, hpfp and coils). I bought a 19mm gdi fuel line socket so I could torque the fuel delivery tube nut to spec (24ft lbs), and I followed the instructions in the fsm to the T.

I did several passes on the valve cover to make sure they were all tight, I was probably more careful than I should have been but eh it's a plastic valve cover.

I got the valve cover gasket from Amazon and the hpfp gasket from Ebay. I used RTV black instead of the specified Loctite sealant.

Took a couple hours since I took my time. No leaks and I drove it to work this morning.
Nice work.

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Been awhile since I've been on here....

Yesterday I had a dentist appointment around noon so I worked from home in the morning. When I got home, it was around 1pm so I decided to tackle the valve cover gasket replacement.

All in all it's not a bad job, just a **** of a lot of bolts to remove (#14 is a bitch). I counted 28 (20 for the valve cover and 8 other bolts for the harness, hpfp and coils). I bought a 19mm gdi fuel line socket so I could torque the fuel delivery tube nut to spec (24ft lbs), and I followed the instructions in the fsm to the T.

I did several passes on the valve cover to make sure they were all tight, I was probably more careful than I should have been but eh it's a plastic valve cover.

I got the valve cover gasket from Amazon and the hpfp gasket from Ebay. I used RTV black instead of the specified Loctite sealant.

Took a couple hours since I took my time. No leaks and I drove it to work this morning.
Curious what was the reason or symptom for replacing the valve cover gasket?
 

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Today I broke another locking clip, this time on the A/C pressure transducer. Hyundai uses the cheapest plastic on the electrical connectors every time I push a tab to remove an electrical connector it either breaks off or doesn't pop back up.
 

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Frowny face, deal didn't go through for the XXR wheels, looking for another set though.

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Changed the front bumper cover this weekend. The previous one had a lot of road rash and towards the center bottom had a large hole about 5 inches in diameter due to road debris from a few years back. Took about an hour and a half to remove and replace it, about $150 for a new painted bumper. Dealer wanted close to $900, I asked them a quote just to amuse myself.
 
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