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I know how just wondering if anyone done it safely?

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Yes there's a guy in our Facebook groups that used the Diode Dynamics tail as turn modules to do it. Looks pretty decent, but you can't separate the brake light and the running light with just the module. You would have to tap the other source wire to make it work, and those are linked on all sides.

I replaced my turn signals with red leds, wired in a resistor and also have the bumper leds to work as turn signals, brakes, and running lights.

 

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What kind of resistors did you use?
Nice by the way.

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I got some Sylvania load resistors I got from walmart.

I drilled them a bit bigger and then attached them to the studs from the tail lights. The resistors get pretty warm, but I have them tucked out of the way so they aren't touching anything.
 

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BTW I shared this with all the various Facebook groups, figured I would share it here as well.

I sent my used oil out for testing, got the results yesterday. This is using Amsoil Euro 5w40 with a Wix XP filter every 6k miles.

The motor at the time of the sample was at 142K miles, the results are that the motor is healthy and they recommend to extend the oci's to 8K miles. I might extend my 6k mile oci a bit but I really don't want to push it. I ran a bit different oil this time around to see if the Improved 5w40 acts the same around the 5K mile mark. If so I'll just switch back to 5w40 Classic.

Honestly I'll be running meth injection fairly soon, I was just making sure I didn't see elevated levels for metals in the oil before pushing this car further.

Anyway here's the results.
 

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I did my Mobil1 change, scraped two wheels downtown Atlanta, streets are so tight is some places, I turned right and nicked three spots.

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Changed oil and filter today. Drain plug magnet had a couple splinter slivers bigger than anything that this engine has produced in the past few years. Will cut filter open when I get a chance.
 

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Well time for an update. It's a long story though....

I got ambitious on the weekend and decided to finally get my Ksport coilovers installed. Started at about 10am Saturday and was done by 12:30-1pm. Not a hard installation but one of the rear shock mounts were seized (I'll get to that later) and the adjustments afterwards took a bit. When I put the wheel on and lowered it to the ground the the rear was around 25.25" and the front was about 26.6". I figured I would drive the car to let the suspension settle. After a huge grocery run I came back home and took a nap and when I woke up it was too late to do anything to the car.

Sunday I went out in the burning sun to try to adjust the rear coils. I didn't realize how much I had to move the locking collars to get it to move the car. I did about 4 rotations on the collar and went to tighten it back up. When applying force in opposite directions one of the spanner wrenches slipped and I somehow gashed my thumb open. I had to stop what I was doing, clean up the huge gash in my thumb and then go pick up my daughter. When I got home my thumb was throbbing and I completely lost my motivation, I decided to call it a night.

Monday I got up and went to work, my thumb was still bleeding. I decided to superglue it closed to try to get it to stop. When I got home I wanted to work on the car but my thumb hurt so bad I really couldn't put any pressure on it.

Tuesday when I got home my headlights finally came back so I installed them and removed the lower grill on the car. I was going to jack up the car but it looks like the jack has twisted and won't retract back where it rests. I took about an hour trying to pound the jack back to where I could at least use it. It looks like it was held on by bolts and nuts and those came loose from the few years I've owned it. I put the jack in a old vise and used a hammer to try to bend it back to shape. Put it back together and it barely cleared the side. To top things off I lost one of the small cotter pins that hold the front together (must have been when I was beating the ever living **** out of it). I grabbed the jack, thew it in the shed and gave up.

Yesterday I stopped at harbor freight and bought a 3 ton low profile jack. When I got home I had no issues at all getting the car up on jack stands and adjusting all 4 corners. I now have it dialed in to be just over 26" (about 1.25" drop). I'll measure it when I go home tonight and hopefully it will be at 26".

I talked to Ksport either Monday or Tuesday about the seized mount on the rear shock and they said it's $135 for the shock, and $120 for the lower mount. I soaked it in pb blaster and let it sit in the sun, beat the **** out of it with a hammer and long prybar and can't get it to move. It only spun in the vise and destroyed the upper threads on the shock. I took it to a local machine shop to see if they can free it. It says to not use heat on it but I think that's the only way they're going to get that lower mount to budge. I told him I only want the lower mount, if he has to drill or cut the strut to heat it safely then that's fine. He just gave me a call while I was typing this and told me he couldn't get it to move, but he didn't try heat. I tried to explain to him again that if he has to destroy the strut to save the mount that's fine. Hopefully he understands now and he can get it to budge....

So yeah it's been an interesting week, hopefully things sort themselves out and my thumb will heal up.

Pics from this week.....
 

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Well time for an update. It's a long story though....

I got ambitious on the weekend and decided to finally get my Ksport coilovers installed. Started at about 10am Saturday and was done by 12:30-1pm. Not a hard installation but one of the rear shock mounts were seized (I'll get to that later) and the adjustments afterwards took a bit. When I put the wheel on and lowered it to the ground the the rear was around 25.25" and the front was about 26.6". I figured I would drive the car to let the suspension settle. After a huge grocery run I came back home and took a nap and when I woke up it was too late to do anything to the car.

Sunday I went out in the burning sun to try to adjust the rear coils. I didn't realize how much I had to move the locking collars to get it to move the car. I did about 4 rotations on the collar and went to tighten it back up. When applying force in opposite directions one of the spanner wrenches slipped and I somehow gashed my thumb open. I had to stop what I was doing, clean up the huge gash in my thumb and then go pick up my daughter. When I got home my thumb was throbbing and I completely lost my motivation, I decided to call it a night.

Monday I got up and went to work, my thumb was still bleeding. I decided to superglue it closed to try to get it to stop. When I got home I wanted to work on the car but my thumb hurt so bad I really couldn't put any pressure on it.

Tuesday when I got home my headlights finally came back so I installed them and removed the lower grill on the car. I was going to jack up the car but it looks like the jack has twisted and won't retract back where it rests. I took about an hour trying to pound the jack back to where I could at least use it. It looks like it was held on by bolts and nuts and those came loose from the few years I've owned it. I put the jack in a old vise and used a hammer to try to bend it back to shape. Put it back together and it barely cleared the side. To top things off I lost one of the small cotter pins that hold the front together (must have been when I was beating the ever living **** out of it). I grabbed the jack, thew it in the shed and gave up.

Yesterday I stopped at harbor freight and bought a 3 ton low profile jack. When I got home I had no issues at all getting the car up on jack stands and adjusting all 4 corners. I now have it dialed in to be just over 26" (about 1.25" drop). I'll measure it when I go home tonight and hopefully it will be at 26".

I talked to Ksport either Monday or Tuesday about the seized mount on the rear shock and they said it's $135 for the shock, and $120 for the lower mount. I soaked it in pb blaster and let it sit in the sun, beat the **** out of it with a hammer and long prybar and can't get it to move. It only spun in the vise and destroyed the upper threads on the shock. I took it to a local machine shop to see if they can free it. It says to not use heat on it but I think that's the only way they're going to get that lower mount to budge. I told him I only want the lower mount, if he has to drill or cut the strut to heat it safely then that's fine. He just gave me a call while I was typing this and told me he couldn't get it to move, but he didn't try heat. I tried to explain to him again that if he has to destroy the strut to save the mount that's fine. Hopefully he understands now and he can get it to budge....

So yeah it's been an interesting week, hopefully things sort themselves out and my thumb will heal up.

Pics from this week.....

Wow, you've had some week so far! How's the thumb?


I am planning on buying the same headlights you just installed. What H7 bulbs did you put in? I want to avoid using HID bulbs if possible, and would like to use LED bulbs, but I'm not sure if regular H7 LED bulbs will work as both the low and high beams, or if I need Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 LED's.

Any advice?

They look sweet on your car, so I will be excited when I get mine! :)
 

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Wow, you've had some week so far! How's the thumb?


I am planning on buying the same headlights you just installed. What H7 bulbs did you put in? I want to avoid using HID bulbs if possible, and would like to use LED bulbs, but I'm not sure if regular H7 LED bulbs will work as both the low and high beams, or if I need Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 LED's.

Any advice?

They look sweet on your car, so I will be excited when I get mine! :)
lol the thumb is really tender, but I work in IT for a living and can pretty much void using it all day (I just hit the space bar with my right thumb).

I've had the headlights for about a year now, I took them off earlier this year to get them retrofitted. They have a Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 projector and a LedConcepts RGBW demon eye controlled by a diode dynamics bluetooth rgbw controller. I had to mail them back to my buddy because one of the projectors came loose and dropped after a month of installing them in the car.

The projectors that come with those headlights are decent and a good upgrade from our terrible stock projector. You'll definitely want to convert to HID though. The H7 bulb will offer little to no hotspot so you'll have no high beams. Even with a H7 HID the hotspot is non existent. Swap to a D2H bulb (same base as a D2S but has amp connectors) and you get a sharp cutoff and a great hotspot. I run a 35w morimoto kit, but you can run any 35w hid kit with a relay harness and have some great results.

Including some comparison pics of a H7 HID bulb vs a D2H bulb in the stock projector for these headlights. Also a few pics of the demoneye in a few different colors (I can do really any color plus a clean white light).
 

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lol the thumb is really tender, but I work in IT for a living and can pretty much void using it all day (I just hit the space bar with my right thumb).

I've had the headlights for about a year now, I took them off earlier this year to get them retrofitted. They have a Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 projector and a LedConcepts RGBW demon eye controlled by a diode dynamics bluetooth rgbw controller. I had to mail them back to my buddy because one of the projectors came loose and dropped after a month of installing them in the car.

The projectors that come with those headlights are decent and a good upgrade from our terrible stock projector. You'll definitely want to convert to HID though. The H7 bulb will offer little to no hotspot so you'll have no high beams. Even with a H7 HID the hotspot is non existent. Swap to a D2H bulb (same base as a D2S but has amp connectors) and you get a sharp cutoff and a great hotspot. I run a 35w morimoto kit, but you can run any 35w hid kit with a relay harness and have some great results.

Including some comparison pics of a H7 HID bulb vs a D2H bulb in the stock projector for these headlights. Also a few pics of the demoneye in a few different colors (I can do really any color plus a clean white light).

So, how hard is it to install HID's? I will need ballasts for each side, correct? Is there any wire splicing involved?

And can I get any D2H HID bulbs or do I need the Morimoto ones specifically? I want the use of both the low and high beams.

I'm not getting the demon eye headlights, just the regular ones. Do you know what color temp the LED DRL band is? I want to match the color to the D2H bulbs I'll be getting :)
 

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So, how hard is it to install HID's? I will need ballasts for each side, correct? Is there any wire splicing involved?

And can I get any D2H HID bulbs or do I need the Morimoto ones specifically? I want the use of both the low and high beams.

I'm not getting the demon eye headlights, just the regular ones. Do you know what color temp the LED DRL band is? I want to match the color to the D2H bulbs I'll be getting :)
Yes you will need a relay harness, 2 ballasts, and 2 bulbs.

You can use these bulbs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pr-DDM-HID-Xenon-Bulb-35W-55W-D2H-3000K-4300K-5000K-6000K-8000K-10000K/301847599412

This relay harness
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/DDM-Tuning-Heavy-Relay-Harness/dp/B01CEHWQ4Y[/ame]

And any 35w ballasts but remember the better quality ballast the more bright and whiter the light will be. If you use the same 5500K bulbs I have in my headlights with a quality ballast it will produce a perfect white light. With the cheaper ballast the light looks more bluish. Mainly because the quality ballast is at 35w or more, and the cheaper ballast is closer to 30W.
 

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Yes you will need a relay harness, 2 ballasts, and 2 bulbs.

You can use these bulbs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pr-DDM-HID-Xenon-Bulb-35W-55W-D2H-3000K-4300K-5000K-6000K-8000K-10000K/301847599412

This relay harness
https://www.amazon.com/DDM-Tuning-Heavy-Relay-Harness/dp/B01CEHWQ4Y

And any 35w ballasts but remember the better quality ballast the more bright and whiter the light will be. If you use the same 5500K bulbs I have in my headlights with a quality ballast it will produce a perfect white light. With the cheaper ballast the light looks more bluish. Mainly because the quality ballast is at 35w or more, and the cheaper ballast is closer to 30W.

Thank you!!! :)

So, how hard is it to actually install everything? I'm thinking maybe I should have a professional do it ;) Did you do the HID install yourself?

It would be great if someone had step-by-step DIY instructions for installing HID's ;)
 

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Thank you!!! :)

So, how hard is it to actually install everything? I'm thinking maybe I should have a professional do it ;) Did you do the HID install yourself?

It would be great if someone had step-by-step DIY instructions for installing HID's ;)
It's all pretty much just plugging things in. You might have to ground the relay harness but there's good points right next to where they're at.

Watch this video, it will show you the basics of installing an HID kit with a relay harness in this car. It's really simple.


Yes I do everything myself, trans cooler, exhaust, fmic, catch cans, coilovers... everything. I would do more if I had a garage but I won't build one where I live, I don't plan to live there forever.
 

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Did 30k service done on it. Tranny fluid changed, coolant changed, oil changed, tires rotated, fuel injection service, and a buttload of inspections on who knows if they're actually doing it.
I do it by year and not mileage. I don't drive my car too much. The last time I did that was 3 years ago
 

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It's all pretty much just plugging things in. You might have to ground the relay harness but there's good points right next to where they're at.

Watch this video, it will show you the basics of installing an HID kit with a relay harness in this car. It's really simple.

https://youtu.be/9BZGQ2nMgoI

Yes I do everything myself, trans cooler, exhaust, fmic, catch cans, coilovers... everything. I would do more if I had a garage but I won't build one where I live, I don't plan to live there forever.

Awesome, thank you for all of the advice! :)
 

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Yes you will need a relay harness, 2 ballasts, and 2 bulbs.

You can use these bulbs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pr-DDM-HID-Xenon-Bulb-35W-55W-D2H-3000K-4300K-5000K-6000K-8000K-10000K/301847599412

This relay harness
https://www.amazon.com/DDM-Tuning-Heavy-Relay-Harness/dp/B01CEHWQ4Y

And any 35w ballasts but remember the better quality ballast the more bright and whiter the light will be. If you use the same 5500K bulbs I have in my headlights with a quality ballast it will produce a perfect white light. With the cheaper ballast the light looks more bluish. Mainly because the quality ballast is at 35w or more, and the cheaper ballast is closer to 30W.
@C4RN1, would this kit work for those headlights? The kit includes the D2H HID bulbs and the ballasts. I would just need to buy the relay harness. Let me know :)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/55W-SLIM-Xenon-HID-Conversion-KIT-For-Headlight-High-Low-Beam-Fog-Light-5K-6K-8K/123464498912?var=423936722199
 
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