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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2010 Santa Fe Limited. 85K miles.

The other day as I pulled out of the garage, it seemed like the idle speed was faster than normal. When I shifted from reverse to drive, I heard/felt a jolt. When I came to a stop, I shifted from drive to neutral and then back to drive. Another jolt. I also then noticed on the instrument panel that no gear was indicated--the spot next to the odometer showed no P, R, N, or D. When I used the car later, there was no more jolt but I didn't pay attention to the display.

Today I returned to the car from stopping at a store and when I turned the key, the instrument panel lit up but the engine didn't turn over. There was no alternator clicking noise like there is when the battery is dead. I just replaced the battery back in February after it died on the ocean voyage to our new overseas home. I tried the key 2 more times and no start. On the 4th try, the car started and I did notice the gear was indicated on the display.

I also recently noticed that the outdoor temperature gauge doesn't always seem to work right. This is something I told the dealer the first year but when they went to check it out, they couldn't find anything wrong and for the most part, it's been OK all this time. Recently it's showing 71deg, but the it's in the mid-80s.

So I have no idea what is up with the car. I don't even know where to start checking. The three things I experienced seem unrelated. Maybe something electrical? Probably 95% of my driving now is stop and go city traffic. Lots of hills. Roads are generally OK, but there are tons of speed bumps everywhere which I do my best not to nail.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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The three things I experienced seem unrelated.
Two of them seem related.

It sounds to me like you might have a problem with the transmission range switch. That's the common link between the P, R, N, D indicators on the instrument cluster and the starter circuit.

Assuming that's where the problem lies, you can probably get the engine started by bypassing the START relay in the engine bay fusebox. At least that will get you home or to a garage. To bypass the relay....

1. Switch the ignition on and make sure the shifter is in P/N.
2. Remove the START relay from the engine bay fusebox.
3. Use a short link wire (paper clip perhaps) to link the two terminals on the relay socket on the fusebox as shown below.
Hopefully that at least gets you mobile.

Regards.
Scott.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Two of them seem related.

It sounds to me like you might have a problem with the transmission range switch. That's the common link between the P, R, N, D indicators on the instrument cluster and the starter circuit.
Scott, thanks for this. From my quick research, it sounds like this is not an uncommon problem for my Santa Fe. I found this TSB for it.

Hyundai no-start or funky shifts - Automotive Service Professional

I also have a Bluetooth OBD reader somewhere around here. If the car is operating normally--like it did this morning--should I expect to still see an error code? Swapping in a new part seems easy enough but I would hate to find out it's a wiring issue somewhere else. I'm also wondering if the new driving conditions could have resulted in this--like making something come loose.

Anyway, I'm trying to avoid going to the Hyundai dealer in town. Everything over here is already crazy expensive. However, shipments from the US take a week and I don't want to be stranded even knowing I can short circuit it--which I'll admit looks a little intimidating.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also have a Bluetooth OBD reader somewhere around here. If the car is operating normally--like it did this morning--should I expect to still see an error code?
Found the scanner and paired it with the Torque app on my phone. No error codes past or present found.
 

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So it seems that your issue is not exactly the same as in Automotive Service Professional

Jolts from shifting gears ... I had something similar. Took it to AAmco. Four bills ($400 dollars) later, fixed.
No more jolts.

When car doesn't start, try jiggling the key in the lock. Seem if the gear selector lights up or not
Thinking it could be switch or high resistance on battery

So, begin by cleaning battery contacts and battery grounding point
Then replace the ignition switch (not ignition lock cylinder)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No chance he'll be doing that if he feels intimidated by a simple relay bypass :smile:
Yeah, pretty much.

Anyway, the car didn't show the gear again this morning. After I got to my destination and did what I needed to do, I popped in the OBD reader and it is showing the P0705 error now. I ordered a new neutral safety switch yesterday and at least that seems like a simply swap. Hopefully it's that and not something in the wiring.
 

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I ordered a new neutral safety switch yesterday and at least that seems like a simply swap.
Not trying to put you off replacing the switch DIY, but it's not usually just a simple swap. The switch needs to be fitted in the correct position so it outputs the correct signal at each lever position. It's not a difficult job, but it's not just a plug 'n play kind of thing either.

I did a wee search of the forum and found THIS POST which explains what's involved in replacing the switch on the Santa Fe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just wanted to provide a quick update. It took a while to source the part. Some places wouldn't ship overseas, and the one that did, it got lost in the mail.

Anyway, the problem happened again the other night with the whole family in the car. I had time this morning so I took care of it. You have to remove the intake that sits over the battery, the battery, and the shelf the battery sits on to access the neutral safety switch underneath. Moving that shelf out of the way was the hardest part.

There was rust on the shaft that the switch slips over so I wiped off what I could with a rag and WD40. I lined up the notches in the new switch with the notches in the old switch and reinstalled everything. Took almost an hour because of that darn shelf (and because I had never done this before).

Car runs normal and the OBD scanner isn't reporting any more errors.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Not trying to put you off replacing the switch DIY, but it's not usually just a simple swap. The switch needs to be fitted in the correct position so it outputs the correct signal at each lever position. It's not a difficult job, but it's not just a plug 'n play kind of thing either.

I did a wee search of the forum and found THIS POST which explains what's involved in replacing the switch on the Santa Fe.
Don't the PCM on this vehicle use the range switch input? Not just for grounding the starter relay by only allowing when in P or N but for strategy. I'm probably wrong. Easy enough to see if the pid's are available through the DLC. I just thought I remembered being able to adjust some range sensors on some Hyundai vehicles using the scanner. Am I wrong again? How bad? Please don't tell me you don't know of any Hyundai vehicles that use the range sensor. There's certain parts of my memory that are not as bad as others. In the last year and half it's been my short term memory that's made me VERY aware I was having a problem.
 

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I just thought I remembered being able to adjust some range sensors on some Hyundai vehicles using the scanner.
I'm sure you probably could if you had a dealer level scanner. I doubt you'd be able to do it with a generic OBD tool.
I mean apparently you can't even check your injector duration with a generic tool.
 

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I'm sure you probably could if you had a dealer level scanner. I doubt you'd be able to do it with a generic OBD tool.
I mean apparently you can't even check your injector duration with a generic tool.
I never used a cheap scanner, I had learned the value of buying the right tools. That didn't always mean the most expensive but in most cases that's what it usually was, or is. I remember doing a Hyundai range sensor with one of the scan tools but the specifics are lost. I hadn't done much in the way of diagnostics or really very little of anything in the last 8 to 10 years.
It finally dawned on me what you may have been getting at. It's highly unlikely the OP has the ability to see the pid's if they are used. You mention the IPW not being generic and I think you are probably right. I'm not sure what is mandated and if they have added to that list over time. I think I'll take a look at the pid's that are now mandatory for access by a generic scanner and see if I can find the history of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi All, I started to experience the same symptoms yesterday that led me to originally make this post. I replaced the switch exactly 5 months to the day.

First I was parked on a level surface, heard 2 quick clicks (like when your battery is dead) when I turned the key, and then the engine turned over. I thought at first I hadn't turned the key all the way. The next stop was fine but then I had the same thing happen at my 3rd stop. On my 4th and last start before returning home, I was parked on a decent incline, and the engine would not turn over on the first attempt. On my second attempt it did.

This morning I checked the battery and I've got 12.6V--the battery is only 1 year old. I checked that the connection on the neutral safety switch is good and it is. The car started up right away like normal. I did notice that it is idling at 1500rpm when normally it idles around 800rpm. This fast idling was also one of the symptoms I had before.

The roads in the city aren't as good as the US, but I try not to nail potholes or speedbumps. This is not an expensive part so I'll order another one just in case, but I don't know what's going on now. Did the replacement neutral safety switch go bad already or this is something else?

Thanks,
Paul
 

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This has been pointed out a number of times in various threads. Howevery, many don't search in advance or follow issue these vehicle acquire or have (as I do) even when I don't have problems. I visit and read whats going on with them.

Having said that.

NOTE: The battery cable clamps are well known to be loose on the battery posts even when fully tightened or believing so. The aren't tight on the lead posts at all. In many cases you find that you can rotated the cable clamp arrangement by hand around the post. This can be the case for both the positive and negative posts. I chased a similar problem for a year. I could only start with the RELAY bridge method extremely clearly shown at the beginning of the thread until I could fix it. I to thought the clamps was tight but some time later (long after resolving the +ve post being loose), I discovered to my dismay that the negative was now also loose.

A clean post and tight connection is needed for sure and a must before going down all the other possibilities.

FYI I did not find lead post caps to enlargen the posts which is the best way. I did a red neck fix or sorts. LOL I got short wood screws (less than 1") and with the clamp slightly loose I drove them down beside the clamp into the side of the posts and tightedn it up. Much the same for the -ve post. The screws are needed to be short so as not to drill drive it into the top of the batttery !!! Then you'd need a new battery if you do that.
 
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