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Discussion Starter #1
About a month about, both of my back brake lights burned out at the same time. I replaced them and they work fine. Then the front driver headlight went out along with both front turn signals. I checked fuses and all bulbs with a meter and they are fine. With the engine off, the eyebrow lights are bright on both sides. With the engine running, the eyebrow light of the passenger side dims and flickers, the eyebrow light on the driver side doesn't work at all. I checked all connectors for signs of water intrusion and did not find anything. Driver side headlight and both front turn signals do not work with the engine running. Any suggestions? Thank you!
 

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First thing is to verify the state of the battery/charging systems.
 
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Verify Battery state.
What year is this vehicle?
Has there been any modifications or accidents to this vehicle?
Any engine lights on?
Are you able to take a bulb out and verify that it is actually a blown bulb. Maybe it's not getting power at a certain point or its intermitent

There are so many factors and it can be time consuming.

There are so many things but instead of doing it yourself. I'd get an oil change at the dealer and just mention it too them and have them investigate it. Once you know you can either have the dealer do it or do it yourself.
 

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Charging system and battery are fine. I have removed the bulbs and checked them with a meter and found them to be good. No mods or damage to the vehicle. The car is a 2013 Santa Fe Sport. It would be a ton easier if I could find a wiring diagram.
 

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Keep in mind that you most likely have the body computer and possibly other control modules in the picture. This would probably not be fun to diagnose in the shop. Be careful to not get in over your head.....
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I thought it would be a simple as something like a bad ground somewhere. I will take it to Hyundai.
 

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How did you test the battery and charging system?
 

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Socket contacts. Seen this sort of thing many times now. The weirdest was a turn signal that cycled normally with the ignition on but engine off, then did rapid flash with engine running (battery voltage vs alternator voltage) .

Pull the bulb out of the socket and <gently> lift the contact up a bit with a pick. Don't go gorilla on it, just lift it a bit. Do this on the contacts in the socket where the bulb touches, and on the outside socket contacts where they contact the housing.
With turn signals you can get the rapid flash because the poor contact connection doesn't pass enough current and fools the BCM into thinking the bulb has an open filament.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Socket contacts. Seen this sort of thing many times now. The weirdest was a turn signal that cycled normally with the ignition on but engine off, then did rapid flash with engine running (battery voltage vs alternator voltage) .

Pull the bulb out of the socket and <gently> lift the contact up a bit with a pick. Don't go gorilla on it, just lift it a bit. Do this on the contacts in the socket where the bulb touches, and on the outside socket contacts where they contact the housing.
With turn signals you can get the rapid flash because the poor contact connection doesn't pass enough current and fools the BCM into thinking the bulb has an open filament.
I saw that and wondered if I should try to bend it up a bit. I will give it a shot tomorrow and let you know the results. Thanks!
 

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I saw that and wondered if I should try to bend it up a bit. I will give it a shot tomorrow and let you know the results. Thanks!
Gently! It only needs to move a small amount to make contact. If your socket is like some I have seen, the ground contact is about 3/8" long, the power contacts are very small, maybe 1/16" to 1/8".
 

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No harm in checking the basics. I would also add that if you added any LED bulbs in place of incans I would swap those back to the correct incans and see if that makes a difference.
 

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The part about the eyebrows and the difference between engine off and engine on are what gives me pause and makes me think something more than just a shorted bulb or socket. But them,...On Chevy Silverado water in the headlamps can cause engine performance issues. The rules really change in modern vehicles.......So yes, check the basics but would not be surprised if this is something more than a simple bulb or socket issue. If you can see a wiring connector to disconnect a given socket you can also try disconnecting them to see if anything changes.....
 
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The part about the eyebrows and the difference between engine off and engine on are what gives me pause and makes me think something more than just a shorted bulb or socket. But them,...On Chevy Silverado water in the headlamps can cause engine performance issues. The rules really change in modern vehicles.......So yes, check the basics but would not be surprised if this is something more than a simple bulb or socket issue. If you can see a wiring connector to disconnect a given socket you can also try disconnecting them to see if anything changes.....
I agree. I was hoping for a bad ground or something like that, but have not found anything related to wiring or connectors. I think this one is a bit over my head (and definitely beyond my patience) at this point. I am taking it to the dealership to have them fix it.
 

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Do the wiggle test when powered to see if it is a connector. I had a tail light that would be on then off. I could get it to blink by wiggling the harness at the light. I took the light out and gave the male terminals a slight twist to make better contact in the loom end. Seems to have worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FIXED! Here's the deal. Sometimes the turn signals would work, but only until I turned on the headlights. Once the headlights were turned on, it went back to fast blinking and the front turn signal lights would not work. The all come from the same stalk. So I cycled through the left/right turn signal with the engine off a bunch of times. Then I cycled through the headlight on/off a bunch of times. Now it works. I still need to remove the switch, take it apart and clean it, reinstalled and check for operation. But I wanted to document the fix in case anyone else is having the same problem. Thank for all of your suggestions and help!
 

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Has the vehicle done many miles? Going to the trouble of removing the stalk cleaning and refitting, may be better to simply fit a new unit. I just had something a little similar in a CM series. Headlights would go out randomly after indicator cancelling. all in the stalk, fitted a used unit and stalk had a noticeably more positive feel. Original was at 168000 miles
 

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Sometiems the wiper switch goes bad and you can take that end apart to regrease. But the rest usually will be cleaned by just soaking it with a penetrating oil spray and working all the switches several times. Then blow out and wipe off.
 

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Hmm. Not saying that you did not fix it as obviously it is working now. Still wondering if there is perhaps a wiring issue in that area or if the switch itself is only temporarily "fixed." Yes, contacts can become dirty or corroded (It may not take much resistance to screw with the body computer) and cycling through can clean them, but those two switches are frequently used anyway so I would think they would stay clean just through use. At leaqst I use my headlamp switch anyway as I do not use my incan DRLs all of the time and I dim the headlamps to avoid lighting up the neighbors house going in and out of the driveway at night. I'm just suspicious that this may only be a temporary cure.
 
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