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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 01 accent 1.5 sohc and the water pump is shot, and while I have it apart I plan to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner.
Here is my question does the front left wheel and the splash skirt need to come off to get to the crankshaft pulley and the water pump? Also is there any thing that would be helpfull to know before I get into this?
 

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[attachment=21878:Accent_1....5_90_02.JPG]

pretty straight forward, yes you need to remove the road wheel. you can jack the engine up and down after you have removed the front engine mounting

caution. the crankshaft pulley bolt can be very tight, use an impact wrench
 

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QUOTE (carlherrnstein @ Dec 18 2010, 06:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=381255
I have a 01 accent 1.5 sohc and the water pump is shot, and while I have it apart I plan to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner.
Ok, best to do the whole front end while apart...

Here is my question does the front left wheel and the splash skirt need to come off to get to the crankshaft pulley and the water pump?
Left side.. No... crank pulley and servicing is done at the right side (passenger side)... Remove wheel, couple bolt and a retainer will get the plastic panel off.

Also is there any thing that would be helpfull to know before I get into this?


Piece of cake..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got this torn apart parts replaced and back together. I went to start it and it turned over but didn't start so I tryed it agine and it turned over then I heard a matalic click then it wouldnt turn over at all so........ I tryed to turn it by hand and it wasn't gona turn so I tryed turning it backwards and it want back about 1/8 of a turn then to a definet stop. I used the instrustions on hmaservice.com to align the timing marks I am sure the marks were in the right places but its not looking good.

What did I do wrong? Is it likey I ruined my engine? How do i fix this problem.
 

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QUOTE (carlherrnstein @ Dec 24 2010, 06:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=383185
I got this torn apart parts replaced and back together. I went to start it and it turned over but didn't start so I tryed it agine and it turned over then I heard a matalic click then it wouldnt turn over at all so........ I tryed to turn it by hand and it wasn't gona turn so I tryed turning it backwards and it want back about 1/8 of a turn then to a definet stop. I used the instrustions on hmaservice.com to align the timing marks I am sure the marks were in the right places but its not looking good.

What did I do wrong? Is it likey I ruined my engine? How do i fix this problem.
The first thing I would do is to take the cover back off and find out what made the metallic click. Some pictures of the results might be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tore back into it and I found that I put the cup shaped washer on backwards and it had partway worked its way under the timing belt and mangled itself all up, I think the washer produced the click sound. So I cut the timing belt off (it was so tight I couldn't get it off easly) and the cam cog jumped clockwise a bit.

I will stop here to explain what I thought was going to happen. I thought I was going to put it back together, in time with a new belt and a new washer and start it up.

I turned the crankshaft towards the timing mark, by hand, till it stoped. I assume a piston touched a valve then I turned the cam cog till the timing marks lined up. Then I turned the crankshaft towards the mark and it came to a stop before the mark lined up. Oh crap! When I say stop it was like somthing touched.

So I took the valve cover off and looked for the signs of bent valves and to my surprise I couldnt find anything awry. The intake valves for #3 were open. The exhaust valve for #2 was open and all the others were closed tight and completly.
I am confused as to what is going on here. Is it possible that I bent a valve just enough to cause a problem. I dont think I bent a valve but, it kind of seems like I did.

I have some pics but, I have know idea how to post them.
 

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Rotate the crank back a bit before TDC so you can roll the cam into time, and then carefully bring the crank back up to TDC


If you have crank at TDC, and rotate cam... the valves will want to hit piston as it is up flush with deck,, roll crank to approx 45 degree before TDC, this will leave all 4 holes clear so you can rotate cam slowly to the timing mark, , and then rotate crank up to the TDC mark for belt install.

Install belt, then rotate the engine by hand and make sure it roll around and comes back up to the marks in 2 crank rotations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I did it in the wrong order? I lined the cam timing marks up first then tryed to line the crank timing marks up.

I have the cam marks lined up, and the crank comes to a stop about 30 degrees before TDC.

Perhaps I have #3 intake valves opening up before #3 piston gets thru with its exhaust stroke.

I will turn the crank back a bit then the can an try it.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok well I am shure I bent at the least two valves probly more :mad:

So its time for another head.

Man its cold out in the barn :frozen:
 

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QUOTE (carlherrnstein @ Dec 27 2010, 04:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=383813
Ok well I am shure I bent at the least two valves probly more :mad:

So its time for another head.

Man its cold out in the barn :frozen:
I know how you feel, over the last few days I've been working outside on a jeep - I needed to remove the head, do a valve job, and re-install the head. Today I didn't do much, it was brutal outside with -10 Celcius temp & a pretty stiff wind. There's only so much I can do with gloves on, so that usually limits the length of time I can work at a stretch. Tomorrow, I should finish things and re-start the engine.
 

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bump

I am going to do a timing belt / water pump / radiator flush job in a couple weeks.

I want to make sure I do things in the right order.

I was thinking the right sequence would be:

* Loosen lug nuts on front right wheel then jack up the car.
* Engine cold, drain radiator and reservoir of coolant
* Run coolant flush+ distilled water mixture for 10 mins, then let engine cool. Then drain the flush
* Run distilled water only, let engine cool. Drain water.
* With radiator/reservoir empty, remove front right tire, and begin tearing into the timing belt job as instructed here: youtube .... U3e9Fx_Dd78
* Pull off old water pump, put new one on
* Fill radiator and reservoir with coolant
* Anything else before buttoning up?

I'm a total novice so appreciate any tips.

One thing I am a little concerned about is not having an impact wrench for the crankshaft pulley cover. I am hoping this won't stop me dead in my tracks.
 

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* Loosen lug nuts on front right wheel then jack up the car.
if you use an impact gun, this is completely unnecessary. i'd recommend getting one for the crank pulley nut anyhows. the starter trick works just fine with a breaker bar, but the impact gun is easier, safer and quicker. electric guns are great and a relatively inexpensive addition to your tool set that you'll use time and time again if no compressor available. i have both, why gas up the compressor if im just pulling the wheels off?

* Engine cold, drain radiator and reservoir of coolant
correct!

* Run coolant flush+ distilled water mixture for 10 mins, then let engine cool. Then drain the flush
* Run distilled water only, let engine cool. Drain water.
i find this unnecessary, but there's nothing wrong with it. my attitude is drain coolant and then refill later unless you have just cause to do a full cleaning flush - like when i helped a friend change out a car that hadn't been drained in almost 300,000kms. the coolant was BROWN with rust!

i'm up to over 250,000kms without doing the cleaning/distilled water flush and no issues. in canada with the salt/crap climate we have.

* With radiator/reservoir empty, remove front right tire, and begin tearing into the timing belt job as instructed here: youtube .... U3e9Fx_Dd78
have not watched the video, but assuming it works. compare against www.hmaservice.com.

i use a a thin steel rod or a punch to align the camshaft. it'll slip through the alignment hole into the slot machined behind it for alignment. keeps the sprocket/cam in the right position and allows me to align easier.

after i've done that and have the new belt on, i'll gently turn over by hand with a socket wrench on the crank (plugs removed to get rid of resistance) to ensure there's no interference between valves and pistons. your hand does less damage than a piston in full swing :)

also, up to you but i recommend getting a timing belt kit where you get the idler and tensioner pullies. they're bearings, and you're there doing the job so why not? you're doing the water pump anyways. my thought is save yourself some headache. either one of them goes, and it'll take your new timing belt with it eventually. that goes and it'll take the engine with it.

* Pull off old water pump, put new one on
new gasket for sure, ensure mating surfaces are clean (on the engine since its a new pump). if you really want to go nuts you can get some RTV silicone for coolant systems. slather some of that on either side of the gasket. it's completely unnecessary, but if it makes you feel better it won't hurt. just make sure its the coolant system stuff. coolant will eat the regular RTV.

* Fill radiator and reservoir with coolant
thermostat before you refill if you feels the need. it's $10 from the dealer....good time to do it. new gasket with it of course.

* Anything else before buttoning up?
yup. once the coolant system is full and the car is still jacked up, turn it on with the rad cap off. turn heater on to full. with the front end elevated you're getting the air out. squeeze the upper and lower main rad hoses to get more air out. keep it up until air is gone, refill often during this. you'll get the hang of it. you can also increase coolant flow by increasing engine RPMs. just open the throttle by hand, that easy.

check the coolant level later after you've driven around for a bit for any losses due to air coming out.

final words: use a torque wrench. if you don't have one, get one. don't need the best one out there either. all the torque specs are on www.hmaservice.com.

believe it or not, engineers don't make torque specs for fun. they're not much fun to come up with at all. they're there to ensure correct install, reliability and your own safety.

you'll have fun reinstalling the crank pulley due to the high torque required. i hate to admit it, this is one of the few times i rammed it down with my electric impact. it was not much higher than the actual spec so i don't see it as an issue. you'd have to block the engine from rotating somehow to get the torque wrench on it....i was lazy :p

last thing is check your crank/cam alignment carefully. when you're done, check it again. and then check it again after that. rotate the engine around by hand a few times and check it again. if you screw that one critical item up, you'll kill your engine. anything else you can catch and repair without damage.

once done, check your work if you're new to this. a little extra time will save you mistakes.

i wrote a couple guides which may/may not help but worth a look. they're written for someone who is a complete novice:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/174-do-yourself/190434-zero-101-auto-repair-safety.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/174-do-yourself/203778-zero-102-tools-trade.html

i got 2 more coming...aimed more at diagnosis. stay tuned.
 

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My List

I built the following list of steps after watching youtube videos, reading threads here and making notes while doing the actual repair. I was going to post it in one of my threads, but this looks like as good a place as any, with a clear title, and my list if for total newbies like myself.


Timing Belt Change: 2002 Hyundai Accent GL 1.6L

Remove passenger-side wheel. This makes it easier to do all the bottom end work and see what you’re doing.
Remove dust cover (2 or 3 – 10mm bolts)
Break loose the four 10mm bolts on the water pump before loosening the alternator belt’s tension.
Loosen two 12mm bolts on alternator to loosen/remove belt.
Loosen two 12mm bolts on power steering pump to loosen tension and remove belt. One bolt is reached by aligning hole in pulley over bolt head. Pull PS fluid reservoir off fender and set aside.
Secure engine with block of wood on floor jack against oil pan.
Remove motor mount nuts & bolts; 2 nuts are 14mm, bolt is 14mm. You will need an adjustable wrench on the square nut on the backside of main bolt to remove it (but not to reinstall).
Remove water pump pulley. With the belts loose this is easy to do with an offset 10mm wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt and hand turn the water pump the opposite direction.
Remove crank bolt (22mm) using either air wrench or “starter” method. (19mm impact socket on breaker bar with bar handle end against floor, hit the starter very briefly, check to see if loose.) Then remove spacer and pulley. Note position of spacer, which side faces the pulley.
Remove top and bottom timing belt covers, 10mm bolt heads, 5 on upper and 4 on lower.
Loosen the tension pulley bolts (2 @ 12mm) and use pry bar (against water pump) to move tensioner to loose position, then retighten plate bolt with tensioner in slack position.
Remove timing belt. If replacing both bearings, can remove them now.
NOTE: Removing spark plugs will make it very easy to turn the engine by hand when trying to align timing marks.
If replacing tensioner: see notes below

NOTE: If replacing water pump, now is the time before tightening down the bolts on the pump as one pump bolt is behind the tensioner bearing. One bolt is obscured by the cam idler bearing.
Replace timing belt, noting that belt is directional. Lightly clamp to top of cam gear and double-check timing marks on both crank and cam gears. Take tension out of right side of belt between cam and crank before releasing tension pulley. Will need to pry tensioner pulley past tension bolt position for maximum slack. Check timing marks at both cam and crank. Rotate motor by hand at least two full revolution, listening for sound of interference. Recheck timing marks.
Reinstall covers, bottom first (4 bolts), then top (5 bolts). Reinstall crank pulley with washer facing correct way.
Install water pump pulley. NOTE: Water pump has two pulleys that spoon together. Both fit over center of pump. “Clock” the pump mounting and the two pulleys to facilitate reinstalling bolts. (Set pulley mount with one hole at “noon” and same for each pulley. The back pulley has to be in place to make room to fit the larger front pulley.
Replace belts in order; power steering, AC and then alternator. NOTE: Alternator has to be pried down to fit PS belt back on.
Replace motor mount.
Retension AC, alternator and power steering belts.
Tighten water pump pulley bolts.
Mark mileage on upper timing cover.
Refill radiator. Check for leaks.
Test start engine, listening for unusual noise or sound of metal interference.

TENSIONER REPLACEMENT:
Remove tensioning bolt, then mounting bolt (the one holding the spring). Assembly will probably pop off unexpectedly.
Place spring and spacer with bolt on new tensioner. Start mounting bolt just enough to hold the spring on the body/block tab. Use small prybar and move top end of spring onto correct side of tensioner tab. Fasten down bolt, then loosen back a couple of turns to facility moving assembly.
Pry slightly on tensioner mounting plate to move enough to start tensioning bolt in its mounting hole. Screw bolt in enough to not fall back out.
Ready for new timing belt. I had to remove the tensioning bolt and pry the assembly up past its mounting hole to get enough slack to get the new belt on.


I absolutely invite comments and corrections on this list.
 

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Awesome. Thanks for the replies guys. One more question: does anyone have personal experience with an aftermarket timing belt and water pump kit(s)? Or did you go OEM?

Don't want to get some random aftermarket kit and find out the parts don't fit or the quality is lousy.
 

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gates is a good manufacturer for your timing belt and pullies if you are replacing those as well. not sure about water pump, i used a cheap one but have not had any issues.

the above instructions look good, except that it's unnecessary to support the engine. there's four engine mounts: left and right sides, front and back. you're removing one mount. it'll do just fine supported by the other 3.

it'll actually hold with just one mount....but let's not go there. that's another story for another time of my past stupidity.
 

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definitely aftermarket

Awesome. Thanks for the replies guys. One more question: does anyone have personal experience with an aftermarket timing belt and water pump kit(s)? Or did you go OEM?

Don't want to get some random aftermarket kit and find out the parts don't fit or the quality is lousy.
I don't have any experience with it yet as I just finished the job today, but I went aftermarket; Gates belts, Pronto water pump. No problems putting them in except one bolt on the water pump had to be replaced with one 1/2" longer. I used to go local auto parts stores (O'Reilly's) but have found online sources like RockAuto to be HALF the cost.
 
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