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Discussion Starter #1
All,
I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 3.3L, V6. But I hit a snag. I have removed the drivebelt but I can't get the water pump pulley off due to clearance. The water pump pulley is hitting the engine mounting bracket. All the manuals said I could remove the water pump pulley and the water pump and made no mention of removing the engine mounting brackets. I was wondering if there was a way to remove the water pump pulley, and the water pump, without dropping the engine and removing the engine mounts? If I do have to remove the engine mounts, do I need to remove the mounting brackets on both sides? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Support engine under oil pan, and remove the offending mount to provide the clearance.

From there, you can raise/lower as needed a bit to get where you need to be.

Watch the replacemnet pump body.. the long bolt may be too long when going to re-assemble pump to cover.. they change shelf height in new pump, and dont supply new proper length bolt in the package with replacement pump.. no TSM or other documents from Hyundai,, so be aware,, you may be running to hardware store looking for proper length bolt to finish job.
 

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Chop longer bolt and chamfer outside edges on grinder.

If you have a metric nut with same thread , thread bolt on as a trial to make sure it turns freely by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks all. I've decided that the only way I can get to the water pump is to remove the engine mounting bracket. I am using a 2x6 to put between the jack and the oil pan and will jack up to support the engine while I remove the engine mounting bolts and bracket. I'm assuming it's ok to just remove the bracket on the one side where the water pump is because it is supported from the bottom, right? Any other thoughts or comments is greatly appreciated, I certainly don't want to cause a bigger problem and damage the engine or brackets in any way. Thanks.
 

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Engine is held by two more mounts so it's ok; sbr11 is dealer licensed mechanic so he won't steer you wrong.

Weight of car should be held by jack stands; separate jack or stand to hold engine without front mount in place.

Pretty much all transfer mount engines need front mount off for major engine work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I'm almost there. But one quick question about the long bolt. How in the heck do I get it out? It's too long and is hitting the car. Do I just cut the bolt? I'm ok with doing that but I imagine I'll have the same type of problem putting it back in unless I use a shorter bolt. Can I use a shorter bolt so that it will fit in the space. There's nothing I can remove to give me more space, it's hitting the actual body of the car. I don't think I can lower the engine because it's too much space to clear. I think this will be the last hang up, hopefully.
 

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Take the bolt and pump out as one, maybe raise engine to change angle of attack..

We do it all the time as part of the front cover re-seal or tensioner replacement in the chassis.. water pump has to come off first to make room for cover to clear the engine and cam phasers..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Perfect, I'll give it a shot. Trying to get the last 2 bolts now, then it should be able to lift off. Thanks. I'm making progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I got the water pump back in and everything looks good. But I am having a little trouble with one of the engine mount bolts that go into the frame. The bolt simply will not screw into the frame. I think I need to rethread the hole and bought a rethreading kit. But it is a manual kit and I was wondering if I could use a drill with the rethreader. I would have to get a drill extender, but I think that would make it simple. And I know the threader/bolt size is M10- 1.25. So my only question is can I use a drill, with extender to rethread the hole? Again, I just don't want to mess anything up that would cause a huge problem. This should be my last hangup, hopefully.
 

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Don't EVER do that! Chasing the threads in an existing hole is best done manually; your drill cannot feel when something is not right, such as the tap is at a slight angle or misthreaded somehow. If this is the case you can wind up cutting brand new cross-threads. It's best to be careful.
 

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Ok, I got the water pump back in and everything looks good. But I am having a little trouble with one of the engine mount bolts that go into the frame. The bolt simply will not screw into the frame. I think I need to rethread the hole
Unless it appears damaged I would guess you just don't have everything positioned exactly right to allow the bolt to thread into place.

And as said, you cannot use a drill to rethread the hole.
 

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You need to make sure the stand is holding the engine level with the body.

If they are not bolt won' thread in square to the threads.
 

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I will venture he to the 2 bolt and 1 not off the top of engine between the banks, and then took the bolts out of mount at the frame rail and took out as 1 piece.. wrong move... should have taken chunk of metal between engine to top of frame mount.. then when going back together, just raise/lower engine to loosely align mount and start bolts, then tighten.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advise everyone!!! I got everything back together and it looks good to go. No leaks, no problems. I decided to just take it to the shop to have them clean the threads on the frame. I didn't trust myself with the tap set, besides, it was on 42 bucks, so not to bad. But thanks again for all the advice, don't know that I could have done everything without it.
 
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