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I drive a 2006 Azera. In late March my battery light started coming on when decelerating. It would stop if I stepped on the gas. On April 1, 2021 the dash lit up like a christmas tree and my alternator died. I replaced with a rebuilt from Advance Auto. It started to happen again 1month later. I then changed the alternator again on 5/10. It started again two weeks later. I noticed a voltage drop and the brake light and abs light would come on at 1000rpm when decelerating. Every time the needle hit 1000-1200rpm everything (lights, dash, radio, blower fan) would drop power for 1 second. I have changed the battery, cleaned the negative battery cable and paint from the body connection. It lasted 6hrs, then started again.I went and got an original alternator from another 2006 Azera. It lasted about 5hrs of driving and started again. Now I am tired and lost. Can anyone can help? Thanks!
 

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Well, you did the thing I was going to recommend you do: Check the ground path for resistance. That can cause a voltage drop when you have a good-sized current flow.

Sorry I can't help more!
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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Check the alternator output wire where it goes to the fuse box and the inline fuse if it has it. May be some corrosion or a loose bolt.
 

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After my wife 'redecorated' the right side of my first 2006 Azera, I bought a used on that had belonged to the Embassy of South Korea. On the way home I noticed the headlights dimming briefly, then brightening a couple of times. This went on periodically for some time. Everything I checked seemed to be OK (alternator output, voltage drop from the negative POST on the battery (not the cable clamp) to the chassis, etc). There was a greater drop between the negative post and the engine block than I found acceptable (with high beams and AC on full the drop should be less than 0.1V), so I ran a 4 gauge cable from the battery to the engine. The problem did not go away, so one day I went to take more measurements, only to find my meter leads were shot. I went to the nearest Radio Shack (yes, back then) to get new leads. When I hit to door lock button on the remote, nothing happened. I got in the car, turned the key, and got nothing. I went ahead and got new leads, then went back to the car, and got under the hood to check the battery connections. I made sure the battery connections were tight by grabbing the cables and checking for motion. Nothing. I got back in the car to find that everything is working again. I'm a USAF-trained electronics technician (or, at least, I was), and problems like this drive me a little batty. What I discovered, is that the layered cable connections on the positive post, while looking clean, apparently weren't clean enough. After a thorough cleaning - without using anything abrasive, since I I'm not sure if the connectors are plated, the problem went away for a long time. I still clean these connections whenever the problem comes back, and that is all it takes.

While I'm here, if you have oil leaking from your front cam cover onto the alternator, get the gasket replaced and the alternator cleaned before the alternator quits. There was a recall for this early on, but it seems the factory replacement gaskets don't solve the problem permanently. I just put a Felpro gasket on mine, so we'll see if it is better.
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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I've found Hyundais battery post clamps don't fit every battery. Inside them around the threaded bolt there is a sleeve that stops the clamp from being overtightened. This needs to be removed and shortened.
 
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