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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i am gonna do the valve cover gasket this weekend. Should I not use any silicone on rubber , and what about the half moons and the cam shaft plug? How would you break free the valve cover?
 

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in theory you can use RTV silicone if you wish, but for the cost of the gasket i'd just put a new one in. its not an expensive part.

to pry it off you could even use a flathead screwdriver if you're careful. there's no magic here.
 

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+1 It's a pretty straight forward R&R. One of the easiest gaskets that you can replace. If only the remainder were this simple.
 

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I changed mine last week, and used no sealer which I don't believe is needed with a new rubber gasket. Just made sure not to over tighten it.
 

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Excellent point, Greg. Over tightening can become as big of a headache as under tightening. I don't know what the torque specs are that is called out for that procedure, but I'd bet a week's pay there are some.

If I had a Chilton's manual... LMAO
 

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On my 1.5 CRX, I always placed a small drop of RTV sealant in those 90 degree corners. I think that was a SOP from Honda. Never had a leak in that area. Must have worked. ;)

Whenever removing the valve cover for valve lash adjustments, timing belt replacement, etc., I scraped off the old and replaced with new. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the back of the tube for proper curing time.

One of a car owner's "more aggravating issues:" oil escaping from the valve cover(s).
 

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RTV ONLY of circumference of 1/2 moon when set into slot (be sure all clean and dry for new goo).. only other RTV is dab at bottom of cam cap to top of head, and a line across top of 1/2 moon to head surface at each side of moon.

Slowly tighten the cover bolts.. old plastic cover will snap on you if you in hurry.. I done it and co-worker done it.. I dont have torque handy, so you'll have to look it up,, but is an "inch-pound" value.
 

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Excellent point, Greg. Over tightening can become as big of a headache as under tightening. I don't know what the torque specs are that is called out for that procedure, but I'd bet a week's pay there are some.

If I had a Chilton's manual... LMAO
I just snugged up the screws, and went back over all of them to make sure they were all the same. I figure with a new gasket it don't take much because it's not under a great amount of pressure, so I started her up afterwards and checked for leaks and if there were any, I'd snug em up a bit more.
 

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just as long as you're not overtightening and snapping the bolts off in the head. anyone who's done enough work under the hood has been there and never wants to go back :p

my worst was breaking a distributor pinch bolt off flush with the head of my old car...the bolt was just worn out and weak, little seized. was trying to adjust the timing, old car. managed to jimmy up a bracket to hold the dizzy from spinning so i could limp it to the shop. ran like ass and blew black smoke, i didn't care much :p guy had to send it to the machine shop to fix my damage.
 

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just as long as you're not overtightening and snapping the bolts off in the head. anyone who's done enough work under the hood has been there and never wants to go back :p

my worst was breaking a distributor pinch bolt off flush with the head of my old car...the bolt was just worn out and weak, little seized. was trying to adjust the timing, old car. managed to jimmy up a bracket to hold the dizzy from spinning so i could limp it to the shop. ran like ass and blew black smoke, i didn't care much :p guy had to send it to the machine shop to fix my damage.
Had that happen when trying to remove a distributor cap bolt and ended up putting a hitch clip on it to hold the cap tight against. Still have to take it out and drill and tap new threads so I can get a bolt back in it.
 

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Broke the head off the harmonic balancer on a CRX. I went into panic mode. Drilled the center out and managed to get it loosened and out with an EZ Out. Which sounds like an oxymoron. Nothing easy about it. But it worked!

Something every home too cabinet should have: left-handed drill bits. Oftentimes, when you are drilling in reverse, the drill bit vibrations usually will spin out the broken stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I bought the valve cover gasket kit at Oreillys auto parts. I found a big difference between the oem cover gasket and the Beck and Arnlys. Oem had a flat surface on bottom of gasket to match the head contact surface, the B/A gasket looked the same on top and bottom. This scared me some seeing that only about 1/4 width of the oem would make contact. But it has been 3 days so far so good. I guess the gasket rolls under some way when torqued down. As for the spark plug gaskets, I had popped all 4 out in1 min. I used my seal puller. Could not believe how easy that was. Maybe I got lucky. Any way it 's worth a try for anyone doin them. Also change out the camshaft plug cause thats what was leaking. In the plastic bag the plug measured close to the one on the car. But ,yeah but when I put the new one in I could push it into the cavity. So I spread some silicone around it , lined it up and torqued them bolts to. I would like to say thank you to all those who replied. In a couple weeks I will do the t-belt and water pump. Thanks again.
 

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In a couple weeks I will do the t-belt and water pump.
glad it all worked out :)

preparation is key with any job like this. its worthwhile doing the idler and tensioner pullies while you're there, look for a kit with the belt and both pullies. its not usually a lot more money.

know what tools you're going to need, go over the repair procedure a couple times, and have the needed torque specs handy nearby. i usually write down the ones i need and keep them with my tools.
 
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