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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a leaky intake manifold, the seal for the primary flow runner has gone and I suspect the plenum seal has gone aswell judging by oil residue. Current symptoms are intermittent and include a resting idle of about 1000-1100rpm. Lack of power below 2000-2500rpm. a lugging sensation when engine braking, manual. The CEL hasn't come on, that and haven't checked for codes.

I'm currently exploring options for getting a salvage intake, aswell as seeing if a machine shop could feasible fix the flow runner seal. Problem being theres an aluminum ring pressed in place holding the assembly together.
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Since I have the intake out I'll be checking my plugs. right now I have 245k km/153k miles on what I presume are original plugs. PCV will also be changed out along with the return hose being cleaned out. Lower manifold may come off too pending on what I find, and throttle body gasket will most likely be replaced.

I am currently looking for torque values. I found for the plugs to be 18ft/lbs. But haven't found values for the plenum or the head cover. Which brings me to my second issue.

I've always had a ticking noise like most 2.7l equipped hyundais do, but in the last 1500kms it's gotten ridiculously loud. Hearing it over road and wind noise at 70kph/44mph. And fluctuating with rpm. Feeling the vibrations with my hand I'm suspecting a sticky lifter or something in the front valve head.

I've switched from regular Quaker state 5w20 to there synthetic 5w20 second last oil change. Ignoring buying the "high milage" synthetic oil. Change intervals on regular oil were every 5-6000k km 3750miles, regular QS synthetic was 9000km/5600miles noticed it was a little dark and amber so will be shortening up the change interval.

That is about the only thing I can speculate for now, but since I'm ordering up a list of parts I'd like to take the valve cover off to inspect what is causing such a ruckus
 

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which exact bolts do you need the torque specs for? i've got the 2007 Santa Fe factory shop manual set (3 volumes plus electrical troubleshooting) so i should be able to look the values up for you.

Have you tried adding some MMO to your oil? These things do have solid lifters. Might be time to measure the clearances and think of replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
which exact bolts do you need the torque specs for? i've got the 2007 Santa Fe factory shop manual set (3 volumes plus electrical troubleshooting) so i should be able to look the values up for you.

Have you tried adding some MMO to your oil? These things do have solid lifters. Might be time to measure the clearances and think of replacing them.
Looking for torque specs for the bolts affixing the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold. Also the bolts holding the lower intake manifold to the block.
And specs for the valve cover.


I haven't used any oil additives yet, seen a couple mentions of it thought as I've been working my way back through all the threads, currently back to 2016 right now.



How hard would it be to replace a lifter? Sorry just still figuring stuff out as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Replace gasket with current -3C110 gasket,, clean entire mating surface with a non-residue solvent.

Apply short bead of RTV where front cover mates to cylinder head (refer to remnants of old goo for location) across the seam.

Place cover with gasket onto engine, torque bolts to 80 in-lb.. my neighbor had to come ask me what to do, as mine not been coming back with cover leak,, he had a couple come back with oil seeping,, he is now using torque wrench on those cam cover bolts.
Some hundred pages back i found some torque specs of 80 in lbs for the valve cover.
 

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Check IM.

Looking for torque specs for the bolts affixing the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold. Also the bolts holding the lower intake manifold to the block.
And specs for the valve cover.


I haven't used any oil additives yet, seen a couple mentions of it thought as I've been working my way back through all the threads, currently back to 2016 right now.



How hard would it be to replace a lifter? Sorry just still figuring stuff out as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you rvborgh.



Last couple days picked up QS high milage synthetic and mobile 1 oil filter ( m1-104) as they were both on sale. My take away is the mobile 1 filter is something else compared to a Quaker filters, even has a magnet in the can.

As well i proceeded with ordering the previously mentioned parts. Have a valve cover gasket kit, intake plenum gasket kit, spare plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, and a PCV coming in from rock auto.





Not so much luck locally sourcing another upper air intake, and am waiting back from a couple machine shops about the runner seal.
 

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Thank you rvborgh.



Last couple days picked up QS high milage synthetic and mobile 1 oil filter ( m1-104) as they were both on sale. My take away is the mobile 1 filter is something else compared to a Quaker filters, even has a magnet in the can.

As well i proceeded with ordering the previously mentioned parts. Have a valve cover gasket kit, intake plenum gasket kit, spare plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, and a PCV coming in from rock auto.





Not so much luck locally sourcing another upper air intake, and am waiting back from a couple machine shops about the runner seal.
If you are replacing the spark plugs, go with NGK iridiums.
 

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Torque spec for the cylinder head cover bolts is 5.8 to 7.2 lb ft. And you'll want to torque them down in a cross hatch pattern starting with the ones on the front and rear. See IM.
 

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It looks like you could pull the seal out by dremeling the peen marks(staking), and using a slide hammer and screw type puller.
You may be able to find the seal by taking measurements of the outside bore, shaft size, and thickness of the seal.
In our area was(is?) a place to get bearings and seals by size. I'm not sure what is out there now
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
It looks like you could pull the seal out by dremeling the peen marks(staking), and using a slide hammer and screw type puller.
You may be able to find the seal by taking measurements of the outside bore, shaft size, and thickness of the seal.
In our area was(is?) a place to get bearings and seals by size. I'm not sure what is out there now
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Looking closely it seems the shaft is bigger inside where the seal would be. The screw that holds the arm plate on only goes in an 8th of an inch. At the very least I could dremel out the insert and get one remade, maybe.

I got my gaskets in
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Picked up 86848-22000 as the screws holding the mud guard and wheel liner to the fender were putchkeyed. As I destroyed a couple trying to get them out. I'll be up dating my "money pit" thread as I'm going to put all new SS hardware in

And 25462-21000 becuase I ithough I may need it. But shouldn't every be a problem ( it's a seal for the top coolant pipe that runs from the water pump to the thermostat assembly on the other side of the block.) Got it cheap though lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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And this statement in the owners manual. "Valve clearance" inspect every 96k km/ 60k miles see note #2, "note 2: inspect for excessive tappet noise"
 

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If you dremel these areas, and drill a small hole for a self taping screw to pull it out, the seal can be removed like this.
Acoording to a website I looked at, the 2009 2.7 has hydraulic lifters and needs no adjustment.
intake seal.jpg
 
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If you dremel these areas, and drill a small hole for a self taping screw to pull it out, the seal can be removed like this.
Acoording to a website I looked at, the 2009 2.7 has hydraulic lifters and needs no adjustment.
View attachment 449812
The G6EA engine for sure has mechanical tappets, that need to be adjusted. Google it. You'll find plenty of info about it.
 

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It has mechanical tappets indeed... they don't seem to wear too fast though. i can find the specs if you folks would like. Once the cold clearance is too much you are supposed to replace them.

It is too bad that the solid lifters on these Hyundais don't use shims. On my VW solid lifter head i could just measure the clearance, calculate the new size, rotate the cam, and use a tool to depress the lifter, slip the old shim out and replace the shim. On these Hyundai 2.7 V6 you have to remove the cam :(

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Discussion Starter #16
If you dremel these areas, and drill a small hole for a self taping screw to pull it out, the seal can be removed like this.
Acoording to a website I looked at, the 2009 2.7 has hydraulic lifters and needs no adjustment.
View attachment 449812
Okay so those three indents are what's holding it in rather than the whole diameter, if so that made the job a whole lot easier. And wouldn't be hard to take a flat piece of steel and make a puller out of it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It has mechanical tappets indeed... they don't seem to wear too fast though. i can find the specs if you folks would like. Once the cold clearance is too much you are supposed to replace them.

It is too bad that the solid lifters on these Hyundais don't use shims. On my VW solid lifter head i could just measure the clearance, calculate the new size, rotate the cam, and use a tool to depress the lifter, slip the old shim out and replace the shim. On these Hyundai 2.7 V6 you have to remove the cam :(
You had me till the last sentence there man.

I haven't yet red up on adjustment so well get started on that. I looked through the previous owners maintenance history and no inspection listed for the valves with 250k km, guessing I'd need the get new guides, lifters, and springs to rebuild.
 

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I see that hydraulic lifters were for an earlier version of the engine(2003).. oops!

The whole diameter holds it in, the stake marks are for insurance against it coming out.

On my Porsche(1978), there is a tapered screw inside the lifter, you give it a turn to adjust the lifter, you would think modern engines would be better designed. The other design mentioned(shim) is how my Honda 750 valves were adjusted.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Added in the marvel magic mystery oil. Maybe that gets the fix.

These lifters are hydrolic right? Only thing I can find are standard hydro lifters. in the case they're bad or clicking they'd just need replacement right?

Seen a couple videos here n there about dual overhead cam setups. And the diffrent types of "bucket" lifters.

Now it's just a matter of seeing if the oil works.
 

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The "Mu" G6EA engine has solid lifters. You need to rotate the motor for each set of tappets such that you can measure the clearances cold, taking notes of the values of each vs the spec, then purchase the solid lifter tappets that brings the differences back into the spec for each of them.

part #s for the tappets are 22226-3E001 through 22226-3E041... each has its own measurement.

i really wish that Hyundai had made this like my solid lifter VWs :( Just griping.

Added in the marvel magic mystery oil. Maybe that gets the fix.

These lifters are hydrolic right? Only thing I can find are standard hydro lifters. in the case they're bad or clicking they'd just need replacement right?

Seen a couple videos here n there about dual overhead cam setups. And the diffrent types of "bucket" lifters.

Now it's just a matter of seeing if the oil works.
 
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