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I just finished replacing my upper control arms, following the instructions posted here. Excellent instructions - thank you !!! I would like to comment on the procedure for the passenger's side. I tried the suggested method of using a spring compressor to create enough clearance to remove the two anchor bolts. I found that compressing the spring actually made the situation worse. The method that I next tried was to loosen the three nuts (in the engine compartment) that secure the strut assembly. I did not remove them completely, but just loosened them to near the ends of the threads. This allowed me to drop the entire strut assembly just enough to provide clearance to remove the anchor bolts from within the spring windings (and a bit safer, I might add). When done, I retightened and retorqued the three nuts (65 ftlbs) and good as new. Thanks again.
 

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I think I found one of the main suppliers for moogs RK series and Beck arnley control arm w ball joint.

http://www.karlynsti.com/2017SuspensionCatalog.pdf

Seems to have same number and supplies both those companies. I have emailed them asking if either brand uses different parts and they would not answer any questions. My opinion I think you will get the moog rk series part even if you order the beck arms. Which kind of sucks since rockauto has the moogs listed as economy part.
 

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Can't see photos

Hello all,

Why I can't see images?

Every image has this picture of photobucket saying enable 3rd party hosting. I tried going through all options in my account setting but I can't find anything that would solve this problem.

Can someone help?

Thanks,

Nicer
 

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Hello all,

Why I can't see images?

Every image has this picture of photobucket saying enable 3rd party hosting. I tried going through all options in my account setting but I can't find anything that would solve this problem.

Can someone help?

Thanks,

Nicer
Photobucket recently changed terms of service (5-6 days ago). Google "photobucket 3rd party hosting" -- lots of users experiencing this issue. I was never a subscriber so can't really describe it as well as others can.
 

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So looks like it is not a setup issue with my account but a global problem with Photobucket.

Sad part is all the great work that was put in by hmr1979 and that benefited many, will no longer be available (unless Photobucket site changes their policy).

Does hmr1979 or anyone else have copy of those images? Can you share those with me? In return I promise to compile a document with hmr1979's instructions and any other notes from other users on this thread and post it here for the benefit of the whole group.

Thanks in advance,

Nicer.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
Oh wow. lol I guess I now have to pay a monthly fee to have those images global again like they use to be.

Not really sure I am ready to upgrade - I think the minimum I have to be on is the 40 bucks per month plan!! ..yikes.

Let me see if I can remember which pics go where and maybe I will create a doc in google and just number it chronologically.

smh
 

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Yeah that whole Photobucket change in policy sucks.

I can help you with the doc is that helps. Thanks for all the hard work you have done.

BTW, FWIW Photobucket users all over are sending complaints so you may want to add to that. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Ok, for those who are browsing this thread obviously the images on this writeup won't be showing up anymore.

I put this on a pdf (thank god all the picture I put in one folder in photobucket so it didn't take me too too long).

There are many gaps (as in blank spaces) but they are in order as this thread is. Essentially, it's the same copied and pasted document with the pics in PDF format.

Nicer20: thanks for reaching out - I would have sent you the pics, but by the time we did that, we probably would have wasted some time. lol

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7yhOMKQSM9gUHU5WDRQRkY0TFE/view?usp=sharing

Please try and tell me if it works. It's 1.5 mb so it should be accessible easily even via mobile devices.
 

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Based on the collective wisdom of the group I ordered Beck/Arnley UCAs (both Front L & R) from Rock Auto which arrived today.

A couple of questions based on quick inspection (see pictures attached) -

1. Is the ball joint supposed move? Both of mine it feels like a fixed stud and could not move them. I thought it should flex around - otherwise what is the purpose of the bellows.
2. Also, if it is supposed to be rigid, mine looks bent? This is the driver side arm. Is this normal?

In general, I am not impressed with the quality. The paint is chipped off at places. These are stamped with "Made in Korea". I thought Beck/Arnley was USA made.

Please comment as I might have to contact Rock Auto if the parts are damaged.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
A couple of questions based on quick inspection (see pictures attached) -

1. Is the ball joint supposed move? Both of mine it feels like a fixed stud and could not move them. I thought it should flex around - otherwise what is the purpose of the bellows.
You shouldn't be able to move them freely with your finger if they're bran new. But yes they move. If they move easily, that means they are worn out.

2. Also, if it is supposed to be rigid, mine looks bent? This is the driver side arm. Is this normal? The stud will sit straight into the fork, but it can move yes.

In general, I am not impressed with the quality. The paint is chipped off at places. These are stamped with "Made in Korea". I thought Beck/Arnley was USA made.
Paint chips isn't going to really affect the function of it I wouldn't think. Because this part is for a Korean car, that is probably why they were manufactured in Korea.
 

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Rock auto has front left upper control arms from Auto 7 on clearance for $17.09! Figured I’d share the wealth. Next cheapest price is beck arnley’s for $34.XX.
 

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Discussion Starter #233 (Edited)
Rock auto has front left upper control arms from Auto 7 on clearance for $17.09! Figured I’d share the wealth. Next cheapest price is beck arnley’s for $34.XX.
Oh my. Ill go check. I think it;s the same part for my TG Azera.

Ty for the headsup

:D I ordered one - I will need to eventually replace mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Does anyone know what 3rd party image hosting sites work for the forum? I am trying imgur but when I upload pics via links, it's not coming up.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
So....photobucket brought back the third party image hosting thing? Looks like there are water marks now...and some of the pics are "not found" but I see most of them.
 

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I will soon be doing a rebuild on the front end and am in the process of getting parts together. Has anyone replaced he front lower control arms? They’re more expensive compared to the uppers. I seen on YouTube that the ball joints are bolt ins for the lowers, should I just get new lower ball joints or replace the whole arm?
 

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Thanks for the write-up. I have the 2.4 GLS model and I don't know if that makes a difference but when I replaced the upper control arms 5 years ago I had a terrible time trying to get the UCA mounting bolts back in. Using a jack only seemed to make the bolts hit a different part of the coil. Ultimately I loosened the strut and was able to get them in.

The dreaded scrunch noise came back, so this time I removed the strut and coil assembly and it went a lot smoother and a LOT faster and the noise is gone.

The first set of UCA's was from AC/Delco and the passenger side began making noise after about 40,000 miles so I switched to Mevotech this time. I don't know if I'll be keeping the car another 5 years but I'll post again if I have any issues with the Mevotechs.

Strangely enough, the driver side is fine, but I will be replacing that as soon as the part arrives.
 

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Thanks for the write-up. I have the 2.4 GLS model and I don't know if that makes a difference but when I replaced the upper control arms 5 years ago I had a terrible time trying to get the UCA mounting bolts back in. Using a jack only seemed to make the bolts hit a different part of the coil. Ultimately I loosened the strut and was able to get them in.

The dreaded scrunch noise came back, so this time I removed the strut and coil assembly and it went a lot smoother and a LOT faster and the noise is gone.

The first set of UCA's was from AC/Delco and the passenger side began making noise after about 40,000 miles so I switched to Mevotech this time. I don't know if I'll be keeping the car another 5 years but I'll post again if I have any issues with the Mevotechs.

Strangely enough, the driver side is fine, but I will be replacing that as soon as the part arrives.
I’ve wondered if the replacements seem to wear out faster because seems like a lot of people aren’t torquing the bolts in the normal driving position. On my first set, the squeaks came back the next year.
 

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That's an idea. I'll try to simulate the correct positioning and retighten the bolts. It appeared to me that even though the ball joint had too much play that the noise was primarily coming from the bushings.
 

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My passengers side was squeaking horribly and clunking. I ordered Beck Arnley for both sides from Rock Auto. I did the passengers side first without much issue. Took me about an hour working slowly. Drivers side is another story. For the wrenches if you haven't seen or used a Mountan Wrench https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-MTNRM6-Universal-Reversible-Ratcheting/dp/B00DDO1DPG, check them out. They are twice as long, have a slight offset on one side for recessed bolts (like serpentine tensioner), they pivot and ratchet both directions with switch. No doubling up 2 wrenches needed. Expensive but I have used them MANY times now.

Public service announcement SPRAY the nuts/bolts a day or 2 ahead of time, they might be rusted or like one of mine I think cross threaded. Maybe because mine has 208k on it already and were never done but one bolt/nut is stripped. Passengers side I had sprayed a couple time through wheel well to try and quiet the squeak it helped some but not long. I think it helped with removal of bolts.

I'll try to get pictures and maybe send to HMR1979 so he can add to his excellent write up. On the front and back of the strut towers where the bolts go through there are square nuts that just rest in a tack welded piece of sheet metal with a small bend on bottom also to hold it. The nut is a 17mm in case you have problems like I did in the worst to get to one. Drivers side rear bolt/nut is between brake booster/master cylinder/firewall/inner fender. When I went to loosen the bolt it didn't have much torque resistance, not like the others. It also didn't want to loosen, the nut was spinning, the sheet metal was deformed and not holding it. Knowing how it is now I should have tried a smaller adjustable wrench maybe with jaws on top and bottom of nut. I tried vicegrips to bend sheet metal back (not much luck). screwdriver wedged (no good). I ended up trashing/bending the sheet metal so I could get a 17mm wrench on it to hold it. I finally got it out but did need to wrench it all the way out unlike the other 3. I didn't want the nut to drop so left the wrench on it and some zip ties around the bent sheet metal, both sides of wrench. Swapped the control arm, got the bolts in front bolt is good, back one won't tighten down. The bolt looked OK when I took it out so I think it's the nut. Dealers don't stock them for some reason. 2 out of 8 dealers each have one bolt, no nut so needs to be ordered which is 2 days out.

The bolt at least for my 2007 4 cyl, GLS 5 speed manual is part# 54460-3K000 and the nut is 54459-3K000 in case you want to get one. Bolt is about $5 and nut is 60 cents.

I don't want to drive as is and chance ruining the new control arm. Luckily I have my son's car to use for a couple days.

By the way both of my new Beck Arnley ones only have a nylon locking nut. There is no hole in them for a cotter pin.
 
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