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I posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didnt start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldnt be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. Im not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
 

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Thanks for the update, good info to know about the starter. Prob just a fluke, but you're right a starter should last a long time.
 

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In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
I'll agree with Honda starters being nearly bullet proof. Once had my 85 CRX clutch cable snap. No clutch. When I came to a red light, I slipped it into neutral and shut off the engine while stopping. Put her in 2nd gear and hit the starter when the light turned green. That thing propelled the car forward and danged if it didn't start right up. Got home that night thanks to this technique during four intersection stops. You veterans will appreciate the scnchronized shifting technique we sometimes resort to in order to up/down shift if your clutch pedal goes south on you. This will be puzzling news to some of the kids. :confused:

I'm thinking your starter may just have been a fluke unit. Hope the new one serves you as well as my old Honda starter served me! Also hoping Ingrid's doesn't crap out on us, either.
 

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Seen a few random on new car that the solenoid wire not fully locked into place
 

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My question would be what, a starter has to be ordered from the warehouse in another city? A starter is a pretty common issue. No inventory anymore anywhere!
 

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Thinking my starter may have gone out/or be going out. Going to get under the car and check tomorrow. Anyone have a picture or could direct me to the starter. Would save me some time from hunting around.
 

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I'm sorry, Murph, as much as I'd like to lend an assist, I can't help you on location. Hopefully someone on here has crawled under theirs and knows. Try this first: remove the two ground straps on the fenders and clean the paint away from underneath where they attach with the sheet metal screw. Sometimes, this area is the culprit. It's the simplest check. And don't discount the battery. Easy to check that if you have a meter laying around.
 

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Ditto! Check the cables first. No cost and easy to do.
 

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The starter is above and to the right of the oil filter. Follow the big pos cable from the battery
 

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Thanks for the help found the starter last night. Checked the connections, no obvious damage, corrosion, loose connection. Took it to the dealer this morning and they say it is the starter $100 for diagnosing the problem and now $478 to have the starter replaced. I have looked at the posts Tiger-Heli made and have changed alternators, etc before, is the starter something I could do myself. I have a 2011 Elantra with 71,000 miles so not really concerned about warranty. Just think I could save $200 to $300 buying the part and swapping them myself.
 

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I would say yes but only you truly know if you are up to it. At least you dont have to pull the axles or anything like on some hondas. Just remember to disconnect the battery.
 

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E-gad ...

(I see why I don't like dealer maintenance - if you do your own work, you could have replaced it for less than the diagnostic charge, and if it wasn't the starter, at least you'd have a new one).

(I understand it not being part of the powertrain, although the engine won't do much without one ...)

STARTER for 2011 Hyundai Elantra

New is $278, but you can get them for $201 plus shipping - still, that's $200 for installation.

Oreilley has them for $94 (with core exchange) rebuilt with a lifetime warranty - I would go that way. (If you take it off and bring the old one (recommended if you have access to a second vehicle), it is $94, otherwise is it $155 and you get $60 back when you turn in the old one.

It is MUCH easier to change than an alternator - IF you can see the two attachment bolts and can get a wrench on them. However - DO NOT skip the step on disconnecting the negative battery terminal as I think the cable to the starter is usually hot at all times.
 

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Yeah I think I am going to check out O'Reilly. Lifetime guarantee is good. My Dad has a pretty nice farm shop, and if we cant fix this, someone should probably re-posess the wrenches we have. Thanks for the help and the understanding of my disgust in paying so much for such a simple repair.
 

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Wow, I know dealerships have overhead and have to pay the rent, but just once I'd like to see them have realistic service charges and parts costs. I think if they actually were more realistic they'd have more dedicated service customers, which in my mind means better business. But then again even with crappy costs/prices they still seem to be fully booked so maybe getting more customers isn't necessarily a win-win for them.
 

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A bit of devil's advocate here ...

Lifetime warranty rebuilt on THIS part probably makes sense. The new starter is unlikely to fail, and if it does, it is easy enough to swap out again, and you will never have to pay for it again. There are some parts (plastic thermostat housing or rear dogbone engine mount on a 2002 Focus, for example), that the replacement part doesn't last and it is a pain to change and you are better off buying the OEM part, even though the replacement part has a lifetime warranty and costs less.

Unfortunately - outside of these and similar forums, it can be hard to know the correct way to go (I've seen examples where the aftermarket part was far superior to the OEM and other example where they were far inferior. (And sometimes items like belt tensioners, one brand of aftermarket was better than OEM and another was worse and they were near the same price)).

I used to work at a large auto repair chain and had the following conversation with a customer (CU):
CU: How much do you charge to change a thermostat?
TH: (I really didn't know and guessed about 45 minutes labor) - Probably around $50-$75.
CU: But it is only two bolts?

Now - the point I am getting at that the dealer has to take into account - usually when you are bringing a car into a shop for this type of repair, it means "I already tried to take this out, and the bolts wouldn't budge and I rounded off the heads a little bit, and now I need you to fix it for me!!!"
 

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Ever seen that LARGE, OBNOXIOUS sign that is posted on the inside of the dealer's service drive? Has a little statement that reads: LABOR: $80/hour. Or, whatever price they post. :eek:
 

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And keep in mind, that is typically "book labor", so if the book tells you the starter takes 2.0 hours to change, the shop gets $160. If a competent mechanic can do it properly in 1.0 hour and in 0.5 hours if he takes "shortcuts", that is extra profit for the shop (and the mechanic to large extent).

I preferred the shops with these:
Joke of the Day - "Labor Rates" | Media One Pro's Blog (edited below):

LABOR RATES
Normal……………………………...…$75.00 per hour
If you wait…………………………..$85.00 per hour
If you watch……………………. $100.00 per hour
If you help………………………….$130.00 per hour
If you worked on it first…….$250.00 per hour
 
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