Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My right rear door lock actuator has been "problematic" for a while, and this past weekend it passed from "problematic" to "concerning."

When I press the door lock button on the driver's door, the right rear door lock doesn't always lock (it always un-locks). However, when I press the locking button on the remote, it locks properly. When I get the car up to speed, it also locks properly

Yes, the 2006 Sonata is equipped with "automatic door locks." They come set to "Nah" from the factory, and you have to pay the dealership $40-$60 to set them to "on." My dealership wasn't even aware of that until I told them I'd give them money to do it, which I did, as a present to my car. But I digress.

Also this weekend (this is what got me paying attention to the right rear door), the electric power window for the right rear door is no longer controllable from the driver's window switch cluster. Well, it is, sort of. I can raise it from the driver's switch cluster. I just can't lower it. I CAN raise and lower it from the local switch in the right rear door.

My assumptions:
  • The right rear window actuator is fine, since I can control the window from the switch immediately next to it
  • The switch for the window, in the driver's cluster, is shot and should be replaced ($20 from eBay, plus my time). I should add--the "Auto-up" and "Auto-down" feature for the driver's window is intermittently intermittent.
  • The lock actuator for the right rear door is "sticky," and (if possible) I should oil it
  • Alternately, there are TWO electrical paths that trigger the lock. One of them has higher resistance, and so I cannot get sufficient current to the actuator. The other electrical path is fine, and allows sufficient current to get to the actuator
  • Alternately (again), the wiring harness between the door pillar and my right rear door to my 14-year-old, 210,000+ mile Sonata is wearing out, and everything else is fine.
Thoughts? Comments? Experiences?

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Elsewhere in the forum, there is a discussion that mentions two possible electrical paths to the actuator(s)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I checked it again today:
  • Polished off the tarnish from the "blades" on both fuses--no improvement
  • The door lock works intermittently in both directions, from all possible "triggers."
    • Points towards an actuator issue
  • Window fails to work as before:
    • Local switch fine in both directions (so the actuator is fine)
    • The remote switch won't lower, but will raise the window (so--it's the remote/driver's switch)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Nah, I didn't take pictures. I was able to fully swap out the switch (tools out to tools away) in 45 minutes.

There are a few good videos on YouTube on how to do this, if you need.

The door actuator seems reliable enough for now. I just trained myself to take a peek before I walk away from the car. When my last FOB dies, I will probably just retrain myself to (gasp!) lock the doors manually. I already unlock them manually. It's like living in the stone age, I tell you!

Anyone have a spare CRUISE CONTROL switch (on the steering wheel) that they don't need? I may swap that out, next!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top