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Elantra 2011 GLS, When I open the trunk there is no yellow car symbol on dash and the light in the trunk doesn't turn on (bulb is good) It's like the car thinks that the trunk is close when actually is open. Trunk opens without a problem with the key FOB button. What could be the problem? Thx
 

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Elantra 2011 GLS, When I open the trunk there is no yellow car symbol on dash and the light in the trunk doesn't turn on (bulb is good) It's like the car thinks that the trunk is close when actually is open. Trunk opens without a problem with the key FOB button. What could be the problem? Thx

Do a resistance test of the switch.
 

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I assume the door ajar warning on the cluster is working OK? If not, check your fuses. Both the door and trunk warning lights, and sometimes the trunk light too, are supplied power from the same fuse.

Assuming the fuses are OK, the other thing to check is the wiring between the trunk lid/tailgate.

The switch that controls the trunk light is usually built in to the trunk/tailgate latch, meaning the wiring for it has to route between the trunk lid/tailgate and the car body. Everytime you open/close the trunk the wiring in that area gets flexed and that often results in the wires eventually breaking. It would be worth taking a look at the wiring in that area to check for damage.

The other thing you can try to confirm you have a broken wire is disconnect the wiring from the latch and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on each terminal of the harness connector. The wire that controls the trunk light should have 12V (via the trunk lamp bulb). If there is no voltage on any of the terminals that is telling you the wire between the latch and the bulb is open circuit/broken, and the most likely place for it to break is where it routes between the trunk lid/tailgate and the car body.

I hope that gives you a couple of ideas about how to trace the fault.

Scott.
 

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I assume the door ajar warning on the cluster is working OK? If not, check your fuses. Both the door and trunk warning lights, and sometimes the trunk light too, are supplied power from the same fuse.

Assuming the fuses are OK, the other thing to check is the wiring between the trunk lid/tailgate.

The switch that controls the trunk light is usually built in to the trunk/tailgate latch, meaning the wiring for it has to route between the trunk lid/tailgate and the car body. Everytime you open/close the trunk the wiring in that area gets flexed and that often results in the wires eventually breaking. It would be worth taking a look at the wiring in that area to check for damage.

The other thing you can try to confirm you have a broken wire is disconnect the wiring from the latch and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on each terminal of the harness connector. The wire that controls the trunk light should have 12V (via the trunk lamp bulb). If there is no voltage on any of the terminals that is telling you the wire between the latch and the bulb is open circuit/broken, and the most likely place for it to break is where it routes between the trunk lid/tailgate and the car body.

I hope that gives you a couple of ideas about how to trace the fault.

Scott.

If it were a fuse he would be having more than this one issue. The fuse powers several things (interior lights etc). The problem is likely with the switch or it's wiring. The IPCM and BCM controls the output for the lights. Really need a good scan tool to monitor switches and output.
If it's a bus issue he'll need to take it somewhere.

That would go well beyond the scope of this forum.
 

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BTW....DO NOT use a meter on the circuit unless you know what you are doing. You can ruin a module very easily with one wrong test.
 

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If it were a fuse he would be having more than this one issue.
Yeah, that's why I asked him to check for other issues.

grcauto said:
The problem is likely with the switch or it's wiring.
Probably. But, IMO, it's always worth spending a few minutes checking the fuses first before pulling trims, removing parts and checking wiring. It would be kinda dumb to do all that and find nothing and then check the fuses. Don't you think?

grcauto said:
The IPCM and BCM controls the output for the lights..
Some lights, yes. Trunk light, probably not. This is a Hyundai we're working on. The bulb is more likely to be connected directly to the switch.

grcauto said:
If it's a bus issue he'll need to take it somewhere.
A bus issue? Now your just showing off :laugh:
 

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Yeah, that's why I asked him to check for other issues.


Probably. But, IMO, it's always worth spending a few minutes checking the fuses first before pulling trims, removing parts and checking wiring. It would be kinda dumb to do all that and find nothing and then check the fuses. Don't you think?


Some lights, yes. Trunk light, probably not. This is a Hyundai we're working on. The bulb is more likely to be connected directly to the switch.
The light is operated by the module. It's not direct.

A bus issue? Now your just showing off :laugh:
What? It's not a truck, is it? :laugh:
 
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