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Discussion Starter #1
Got to it, it starts and runs but no power and CEL on. Drove it at 25 mph to auto parts store and pulled codes.
P0449
P0456
P0340

Whats the common issue?
Help in parking lot pf parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I know the
449 and 456 are evap issues, probably not causing it not to run.

The 340 is cam position sensor. Sounds like the issue. Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replaced the crank position sensor, wires were burned to a crisp. Made no difference.

Cant see how to remove the Cam Position sensor with out removing the thermostat housing assembly.....can it be done?

Truck starts ok than idles rough in gear with foot to floor you can walk faster than it accelerates but if you give it time higher in the RPM range it picks up and pulls a little.

LOST?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So its idling rough and has no power and while its running I unplug the cam position sensor expecting car to die or at least change something....nothing ran the same with it unplugged. So I'm going to ascertain that I have to pull off the thermostat housing and try again to get to that cam position sensor.

Any hints or tricks?
 

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cam sensor is used by the engine to get an initial startup timing when cranckshaft position is not yet established.
So I suppose when the engine is running it could be the camschaft sensor has become not in use.
Rough idling can be caused by a bad vacuum hose to the air intake or EGR problem (when it has one).
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #6
cam sensor is used by the engine to get an initial startup timing when cranckshaft position is not yet established.
So I suppose when the engine is running it could be the camschaft sensor has become not in use.
Rough idling can be caused by a bad vacuum hose to the air intake or EGR problem (when it has one).
Good luck,
Paul
How do I explain the code? P0340? Thats the CAM sensor right?
 

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Slow performance could mean the engine is in limp home mode, a safety feature to prevent the engine from getting severely damaged.
P0340 means: Camshaft position sensor (A) circuit bank 1. So it has an electrical circuit problem, so maybe short circuit, open line, circuit to ground etc.
Depending on your engine type it is positioned somewhere at the cam shaft, at the top half of the engine.
You could look into the Hyundai service site for all the info you need.
https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com
You need to register and log in but it is free.
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Slow performance could mean the engine is in limp home mode, a safety feature to prevent the engine from getting severely damaged.
P0340 means: Camshaft position sensor (A) circuit bank 1. So it has an electrical circuit problem, so maybe short circuit, open line, circuit to ground etc.
Depending on your engine type it is positioned somewhere at the cam shaft, at the top half of the engine.
You could look into the Hyundai service site for all the info you need.
https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com
You need to register and log in but it is free.
Good luck,
Paul
Being that it runs the same with cam sensor unplugged, I betting it's dead.
Is there test for the camera wiring before I remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So......cam position sensor is now new and truck still does same thing.

Any ideas? I'm at a complete loss.

CLIFF NOTES:
2003 Santa fe 2.7 has a 2005 2.7 motor with 88K on it and truck has 135K on it. Old motor spun a bearing at 120K. Replacement motor has been in and running fine for a year or so. At a light when truck was warmed up CEL went on and it lost power. CEL were P0449, P0456, P0340. I have replaced the CAM angle sensor and Crank angle sensor.

Let em see if I can describe "lost power" any better....

Starts fine and idles a little rough. There is a little hesitation when you rev it in park. Put it in drive and plant your foot to the floor and it just sits there like the throttle cable is not even hooked up for a few seconds then engine slowly chugs it way up through the RPM band, prob 10 seconds later it at 3K it increases and starts to pull to red line. In the higher RPM's it pulls ok but under 3K its a dog.

Where do I go from here??? Help
 

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As you describe certainly seems a limp home mode to me, hardly any accelleration, very gentle engine performance.
There is a procedure to check timing, you should be able to find at HMA service site.
It is done with timing markers at the timing belt shaft gears, which need to line up.
I only don't understand you are able to run the engine with cam sensor detached. Are you shure that is the cam sensor?
Another idea? Are you shure you are running the correct fuel? Did you just fill up? Evap errors could point to that. Or is fuel filter blocked?
Certainly seems to me the engine indeed feels sick.
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Cam position sensor not a common item around here.. look for possible cam/crank timing out of line too.. Program logic knows what the seperation should be from the wave forms made by the sensors in regard to long space on cam and crank seperation..

We have test in GDS where we can select it pops up the actual count and says PASS if timing correct between cam and crank.
 

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Crank sensor changed, how about the blade part, there are posts about that also causing problems if worn.

Old school induction timing light using cyclinder one pick up could freeze marks on crank pulley and timing cover., need to find spec for degrees BTC.
 

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-- CLIFF NOTES:

2003 Santa Fe 2.7


<----- Go back into your profile to show in the "DRIVES" box "2003 Santa Fe" so it shows under your user name to left there
 

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Crank sensor changed, how about the blade part, there are posts about that also causing problems if worn.
2.7 does not use "blade",,, it is a sensor stuck in hole on outside of block with toothed ring bolted to crankshaft

Old school induction timing light using cyclinder one pick up could freeze marks on crank pulley and timing cover., need to find spec for degrees BTC.
Timing light not be of much value for crank-cam timing,, for this, std visual of crank at TDC and visual of both cam gear to valve cover reference marks be the truth to belt timing.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I read up on checking timing belt marks and dam you have to pull a significant about off to just get off the timing belt cover.....so I just pulled a few bolts on it and pryed it out to see if I could see the marks. What I saw was not good.



This belt has 12K on it and is a year old. :mad: So what would cause this? It looks to be pushed to the inside and clearly wearing badly by all the materiel in there. So should I bet the valves are toast too? Dive in and change belt or shop for another motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So....off comes upper cover







So what caused this? Going to check timing now. How many teeth off can it be before it mashes the valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So its off, tensioner and idler look fine, no play. No noticeable bearing wear at all. Water pump pulley is fine no movement at all. This belt, WP idler and tensioner are only 6K old. 4 months. What could cause this? What alines this belt? The crank pulley supposed to have anything behind it like a washer to space it out?
 
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